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Well, there goes my model buying budget. Glad to see the redo of the '64 Chevell with an open hood and engine bay this time. Look forward to building the Nova for old time's sake having owned a '76 SS hatchback.

Looks great, Nice clean looking stock T-Bird.

Great looking Corral of Mustangs. I think you are correct about the 260 cu in V8 engine.

Beautiful looking paint finish and color. The Mach I trim always looks good on these.

Great looking showroom stock build. Cleanly detailed body trim.

Great looking body work and like the chassis and engine setup.

I noticed in one of your pictures where you had painted many of the engine components that the intake manifold looks like a @ bbl. and your Carb. seems to be a large 4 bbl. Is this the intake you're going to use or is there another that you are using?

My subscription for Hot Rod is still in effect for another six months and I recently received the latest issue that is focused on the Pro Street movement. The way Hot Rod presented the changes to subscribers was the quarterly issues and better content. I'm still not thrilled about the situation with Hot Rod, Motor Trend and all, but I was impressed with the manner in which the magazine covered some of the iconic early Pro Street cars. Time will tell if I renew my subscription or not, but if anyone is building a Pro Street model or is curious about them, they might want to pick up this issue.

Looks like a rugged well used truck.

Great looking paint work and color. What color did you use on the body? The interior seat pattern looks good.

Great looking body work. Like the paint color and finish. I can almost see a guy doing this with a real Hurse.

Beautiful looking colors and finishes. Very realistic looking build.

Amazing how the look of this build changed with your front end and trim changes.

Another advantage to masking in the way you mention is saving the texture of the gold anodized insert in the chrome body trim. This would help whether you're painting or foiling the side trim.

That was just before California went to the Od and Even Days, which was dependent on the last digit of your license plate number, that you could buy gas. Had commercial plates on my El Camino, gas was no problem as long as I only wanted 10 Gal. at a time, and no Blue Chip Stamps.

Started to become popular in the early and mid '50's. Design styles have changed over the years and started a comeback when the "True Fire" style flames starting around 2000. There is just something about a '40's and on Ford with a deep black paint job with the hood and front fenders on fire that just says Hot Rod.

I have only used the spray cans, but the only drawback is getting a smooth color blend from dark to light. I mask the outside of the window and mask off the bottom edge that I want on the inside. One or two light coats seem to look the best. This one was done in Clear Blue because of the blue body color. I have done another in Spray Smoke as well.

Like the body color and the finish on the wood as well.

Made me go out and buy a fist full of Lottery tickets.

Spring is coming, are there any hardware stores in your area that repair screen doors? They'll usually give you any scraps that they're going to through away anyhow.

Great idea if you're not clear coating the decals. This is an issue on just about any build when installing the interior and chassis parts. I bought a premade foam pad that is designed for just this sort of job, and it works well to hold the body in place when doing bare metal foil. The foam is 6 inches wide and 1 foot long. The top has two different sized troughs for lake of a better term, that run length wise and helps hold the body in place. A microfiber towel might also work setting the roof down on that.

Maybe use a 4 bbl manifold and reshape the carburetor mounting pad to look like a 2 bbl manifold. The two-barrel carb could come from a Tri-Power setup that uses Carter carbs. I think that would be the most common carb that GM used in that era.

Great looking color and the finish looks good in the photos. Clean stock body trim.

Great looking paint finish and color. Like the LS engine.

Red plastic as well as some other colors are known to ghost or show thru most shades of primer and final color coats. Many have recommended a silver as a base coat and then primer from there. I suggest that you start by using some of the parts trees in the kit to experiment with for painting. A good automotive type of primer might be a good place to start. See how the colors you are wanting to use react over the primer as far as the red bleeding thru. Any colored plastic seems to offer painting problems, some more than others and no two seem to be the same. Many others here will offer you some ideas and I suggest trying each of them to see what works best with the plastic you are working with.