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Now this is a good example of why they're no longer around. Looks like a kit of a childes pedal car. Just my opinion .

You can't make this up.

Try explaining the strange color of you bottom to the Mrs. LOL

The crazing is caused by the bubble wrap because it's a plastic type product. I think if you had a paper towel type product in between you would be fine. The bubble wrap actually seems like a good idea to take up the room in the storage box, just need something to go between the bubble wrap and the plastic model.

I had the Friction Toy of this car made by JoHan way back when. They didn't offer any type of interior and the frame was a flat metal plate with metal axels for the wheels and tires. Something along the lines of what others have offered may be your best bet.

Glad you are able to find this helpful. The "bomb" style was much what I was after also. Should you have any questions on this in the future I would be glad to be of assistance to you in any way.

Thank you everyone for looking. This is not a style I usually build so it was fun to try.

Thank you for your comments on the Aerosedan. While the kits chrome foil was a nice possibility it would still look like chrome tape. What I used on the bottom of the body running between the fenders was Plastruct # 90884 3 mm half round. On the 1:1 car this is a little larger than the moldings above. The additional moldings are made using # 90881 1.5 mm half round. Trying to get the position of the moldings as close as I could I studied photos on line of the real cars and the pictures I had of the car in the magazine. From there I just winged it. Kind of fun once you get into it. I'm bringing over a picture from my build with the body in primer as it may help also. Please post your build I'd like to see what you do with this great kit.

Looks great. With all of the stuff I've heard about Palmer kits and then seeing this makes me wonder why everyone is so down on them. Maybe it's the effort you put into this one.

The "340" engine would be of the same family as the "273" with the only manifolds and alt. mounting maybe being different. There are many MoPar faithful here that can tell you if you're getting off the mark. Just build and enjoy and please keep us posted on your progress.

Where do you park your car at knight ?? The only thing of this nature in my car is a couple of car wash coins for the drive thru dryer.

Very cleanly built. Great colors to show off the lines and you have all the little detail touches in the interior and this really adds to the appearance I think.

Great looking color and I like how you used all of the later Chrysler parts especially the Hemi engine. You mentioned the resin body and I was wondering about the source .

I enjoyed watching your build on this and as I mentioned before the paint finish and the way you put the colors together look great.

The paint looks like it's a mile deep. I don't recall seeing one of the convertible tops looking this good and fitting as well. Very nice engine details also.

Well done on the chassis. Now all you have to do is add a little material along the rear to body space to fill it in.

You just know they would charge you, so why not. The best part to me is think about what it is costing them in time and energy plus postage and paper and everything else. I'd drag this out as long as I could, and yes I may be petty , but it's what I would do.

Some info on the two piece plastic tires. The original kit offered the option of mounting the plastic parts to the outside of the wide tires in the kit to make them appear as if they were racing tires. I tried this years ago and it did look good. On the plastic portion I painted it a flat black color and then scraped the paint off of the raised lettering so that it looked like a raised white lettered tire.

Removing paint overspray is something I have never tried. You might be able to remove most of it with a very mild automotive type spray detailer and a micro fiber towel For light dusting I use both a feather duster or 1" wide detailer type brush. With the feather duster you need to be very careful around mirrors or any other fine detail glued to the surface. The brush is one of those cheep Harbor Freight type brushes that cost a buck or two. The key to the brush is very soft bristles about two inches long.

I built this kit many years ago and used the chassis in the kit to build a model much as you see on the box. The body in your picture looks perfect so sky's the limit on what you can do with it. You know they offered an "S" model with a warmed over 273 v-8 , 4-speed, and some suspension tweaks with Good Year Blue Streaks. Just a thought.

Being the same age I can relate to your taste in automobiles. Usually I'll build a subject as if it were my own personal vehicle and what I would do with it if it were mine. Latly I have started trying to build something different and usually based on a car I might see in a magazine or at a show. The great thing about this hobby is there really isn't any hard and fast rules. You just do your own thing the way you want and enjoy it.

Another product to consider would be Meguiar's Plastic X. Use a micro fiber applicator and very gentle pressure and it will take scratches and marks off of kit plastic windows. This was first developed for the plexiglass windows used in boats to remove the water spots. The good news is any left over, and there should be plenty of that, can restore the headlights and tail lights on your car.

I have to agree, I like it better now than when I started. I also know all about the Hood fit issue thank you.

Well put. I have to agree. A lot of the personal satisfaction of building these kits is knowing what you did to make it your own.