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Hay Hay, what about this Ford Skyliner masquerading as an Edsel. That could pass for a factory built car.

I think my old single temp model is stuck on medium rare .

Pop Corn held together by a sticky Caramel substance that acts like Fly Paper to attract and hold particles in the air and any surface it may come in contact with. I remember as a child of trick or treat age that this was considered a delicacy and highly sought after almost as much as a Carmel covered Apple. We were told we needed to ingest some of our environment in order to build up our immunities. You know the old saying "What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger".

I'm at a point in life where I just cutout the middle man and just go to CostCo and buy what ever I want.

I started picking up issues of Car Kulture DeLuxe and Ol' Skool RODZ lately . The changes you mention may have to do with the change of ownership. I read in one of the recent issues that a couple who had had their builds featured in the magazines in the past had bought them from the original owners I think around issue 100. I'm not into the life style so much but I like looking at most of the cars featured and some of the stories behind them. The coverage of some of their car shows seem to have a modern twist to the '50's look with many of the cars and trucks. With no Rod & Custom, Car Craft, Hot Rod Deluxe, or most of the magazines of that type now gone I have started to look at a lot of alternatives. A resent model I did was of a '48 Chevy Aerosedan based of the Convertible in the 100th issue of Car Kulture DeLuxe.

I have had a Dehydrator that I have used off and on for many years. While they work well a majority of the time I do wish mine had an adjustable thermostat to regulate the heat. What I have found is mine anyway can start to melt curtain types of plastic mostly used on older hard to replace kits. They aren't that expensive but be sure to get one that is adjustable and maybe even a timer as well.

I'm in the primer first camp myself. To my mind primer serves in many was to create a better final paint finish. You can sand bare plastic to your hearts content but with out a dusting of primer and another light sanding your not going to know if you really have a smooth surface. You can do this with the final color also but I think you will usually find that the primer is thinner and doesn't tend to cover trim details and body panel lines as much. With the roll bars on a kit what can happen is that the meeting points between different parts of the roll bar might get either to much paint or not enough. Should a joint between two or more parts have a very fine gap it may show up in the final color coat where if primer had been used and light sanding would even out the joint and often the primer offers just enough "filling" to hide the joint. The color of primer used can effect how the final color looks. Remember your sanding away most of the primer anyway and it is easier to sand than most color coats and the smoother you can get your primer the better chance of your color coat turning out the same way. You can do it either way, which ever works best for you.

Another thought on the whole white wall tire thing. What I have found with any of the pad printed painted or decal white wall or white letters is a light coat of flat or semi-gloss paint on the sidewall. This will actually give the sidewall a more natural look as well as protect the markings from getting damaged.

This really turned out great. The body color now has more of a blue cast to it. On the Ignition wires you might see if there are any prewired distributer kits around. Many like to do their own but just as many go with the prewired ones and everything is to scale that way.

I know what you're saying about the interior and I agree about the trim level. I was just thinking of an easier way to update everything if opening the hood and updating the chassis was a consideration. Even before many of the after market companies started offering reproduction interiors the easiest interior to find was the Impala so besides looking better it was the most available interior at the time.

Those are all beautiful looking builds. I like how you describe your inspiration for each of them. Funny you mention the Road Runners color. Just last week I stopped at a gas station and a coupe were driving a new Challenger the same color and at first it was jarring to look at. By the time I left I was really liking it.

Nice clean looking Type 1. The cooler and roof rack are a nice addition to the overall look. Great paint work inside and on the body.

Perfect '60's Caddy color. I had no idea a kit of this car even existed till now. Very cleanly built.

Beautiful looking build, you really did this one well. I happen to be a ZZ Top fan and have a few CD's that I take on any long drives. "You know they got some crazy women down there"

Looks great especially in the sunlight. The interior looks real nice and cleanly detailed dash. Nice to see one built as they came from the factory. No wonder Ford had a waiting list for these when new.

Beautiful looking Chevelle. I had a friend that had a new one this color minus the vinyl roof back in the day. Looks really cleanly detailed and you would never know what a struggle you had putting it together. A fly droppings in the pepper issue with Lindberg's decal sheet. The license plate they put in the kit are all rear plates in that the renewal stickers in the upper corner of the plates would only be on the rear of the car. The front plate is the same but without the stickers. Other than that nit pick this is like looking at the real thing.

Spaz Stix is little bit more durable to handle than Alclad but you will want to make sure it has dried for a couple of days before trying to install the bumpers. The times I have used it I found less is more as far as getting a great shine. With repeated coats of the paint it starts to just look like shinny silver. I like how the interior looks.

This T-Bird is looking much better with the paint and trim added. The last pictures you can start to see the blue cast to the color .

Another thought would be to find one of Revell's reissues of the '60 Impala. Other than the gas tank this would give you a much better chassis, engine, hood, and trim not to mention the interior parts as well.

Guilty as charged. You know in the '60's we really didn't know any better and you didn't always have a buddy with any better idea of how to do a T & R interior. As JollySipper pointed out , the builder actually did a pretty nice job for the time. If they used the old Tube Glue of the time you're in for a lot of interior work on those seats.

I'm working on a resin body at this time. I bought it at a local show & swap meet a couple of years ago and there is no info on the box as to where it came from and I don't remember who I even bought it from so I'm of no help there. What I wanted to point out if you haven't done any resin bodies before is the difference in the quality of some of these bodies. For me it was about the subject but just important was the quality of the casting. What I have seen is that many of the newer casting that are out there are using a different formula of some sort and the old problems with pin holes are all but gone and the castings have much better trim details and are almost as thin as a normal plastic kit. These seem to be done with a white colored material and require very little clean up and flashing is almost eliminated. Should this be your first adventure with resin I would suggest finding your subject that is done with this material as a first try. The older resin bodies I have built have been a challenge in that there is a lot of flashing and the trim details are vague at best to not even being there at all. I'm not trying to scare you off of building, I'm just thinking that cutting your teeth on a resin body requiring the minimum of work will keep you from maybe becoming discouraged. What ever you do please post your build so we all can enjoy it. Don't be afraid to put up your hand if you run into a problem as there are many builder here with far more experience in this area than I that can answer any questions you may have.

My question has to do with the 1:1 application of this type of wheel cover. This being an Isometric Design this would catch your eye because of the design moving around the out edge of the wheel cover while the car is in motion. Or, what if this is one of those "spinner" designs where the wheel cover stays stationary when the vehicle is in motion ?

They can and do work, but it's not like putting a decal on a model's body. The process has been described on the forum in the past and I would suggest looking at some of the past posts on the subject. Like anything we all do with our builds there are many different ways to do this and I think its one of those things where you have to figure out what works best for you. Good luck, or rob some white walls out of another kit. Ha Ha.

Ya I think it is a shame also, but many of us that like to build cars from this era are getting fewer and fewer and the companies have to look at what well sell for years into the future with a lot of reissue possibilities. Hopefully someone in their marketing and R & D are reading our posts about wanted models for the near future.

You're better off than I then. This is a vary nice looking build and while one of use doing this in 1/25th would be a real challenge it would be cool to see.