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Great looking construction so far. On your drop front axle, what components did you use for the spindles ??

Even with the assembly problems it looks great in the end.

I noticed that and you're correct this is something you just don't expect from Revell. I just made my own from some Plastruct but didn't have any type of engraving. Not perfect but it does look a lot better. I think the '65 Impala has the same problem.

Beautiful build, so glad you built it as a showroom. Great to see just how nice these cars looked as they came from the factory.

Very nice restoration. The interior looks almost tan in the pictures.

Great looking build. I just remembered I have one of these kits I bought when they came out and just never got around to building it. Perfect period paint color and very clean assembly.

Outstanding craftsmanship on this build.

Measure twice and cut once. I agree make it fit, Just some simple frame and fender modifications and remount the radiator wherever.

I only mentioned these since they're of personal interest. Afterwards I realized that NASCAR would not be feasible and the Drag Racing would be either class or ET specific. The Cal Wheel treatment would make the most sense for Revell.

Very clean looking build. The dark blue really makes the wood trim standout.

Beautiful build, really strong color combination. Wheel choice is perfect.

I like your version better. Great engine detail. Really like the belts and pulleys.

Your credit card must be still smoldering in your wallet.

I have used Purple Power for a long time and have been happy with the results. Someone here mentioned using bleach for chrome removal and I 'm doing it that way now.

I have been lucky with UPS with one very big exception. About 20 years ago I ordered some sway bars for a pick up I was redoing the suspension on. Came home from work and there was an empty box on the front door step. It had all the signs of someone doing a burnout on the end of the box. It took UPS some time to step up and replace the sway bars, but since then I have never had a problem.

The Alignment issue that 62rebal mentioned has todo with the front suspension on the kit, Part of the alignment has to do with the wheel base as much as to the toe in or out and the top of the tire pointing in or out. The kit as it comes from Revell has a slightly different wheel base from one side to the other. Small corrections can be made during the basic chassis work, if you realize there is a problem. Unless you check it you may not even realize a problem until you get to the final assembly stage. For myself since I was going to lower the front suspension anyway this was easily corrected when I removed the spindles adding material and remounting them to the lower control arm. I can center the spindle in such a way that the wheel base matches on both sides. I also 'pin' the spindle too the control arm for added strength and to help position the parts until the glue dries. For a 'pin' I just use a short piece of a staple, not expensive and gets the job done.

Looking at the picture Art is sharing from the show, and something just didn't look 100% with the side windows. They seem to short by just a little bit. Looking at the picture Crazed had of a '62 1:1 confirmed it. To my eye it looks as if the side windows are just ever so much shorter than the 1:1. This would not be enough to keep me from buying some as this should be an easy fix. I like the wheels with the slightly deeper offset. The white walls should be the narrow style but again easy fix if you're going to use white walls. Just think of what the California Wheels version is going to be like.

Might want to check Fed-X or UPS, sometimes they are cheaper.

The "overlap" you mentioned is more common then you might think. In late '67 I ordered a new '68 Chevrolet Bel Air tudoor. To get around insurance charges at the time I found that the insurance company only wanted to know if the new car would be a 6 or an 8. They didn't seem to care which 8 and my insurance dropped almost in half from my '66 Impala SS 396 & 4-speed. They insured my new Bel Air 385 hp 427 cu in 4-speed with no problem at all. The point is when this car would throw it's fan & Air Con. belts which it shredded on a regular bases the engine took '67 part number belts and '68 part numbers wouldn't fit. In the '70's working for several different Chevrolet dealers it was not uncommon to get new inventory that had hub caps and often trim and grills from a Pontiac or a GMC truck. It was like what ever was handy at the time.

Looks just like the real thing. The fine details like real hood pins and the very fine multi colored wiring.

Very impressive build. I noticed the radiator detail, in one picture you can see right thru it.

Beautiful build. Well engineered chassis and body. Great engine wireing.

I have used metal dryer hose I got at Home Depot. I'm sure Lowes and many others offer the same or similar hose. They offer a couple of different diameters and are not expensive.

I hope someone will be able to share any pictures of the show.

Not to muddy the waters on this and Bill Engwer offers a lot of valid information. As to any "rule" in the automotive world there is always exceptions. I purchased a one owner '51 Ford Tudoor in '63. It was a V-8 3-speed Overdrive car. The engine was the bronze color as mentioned but the Oil Bath Air Cleaner was a semi gloss black complete with FoMoCo decals still intact. This was a west coast car all its life and where it was built may or may not have anything to do with it, Mine was not the only one with this colored air cleaner among the people I knew. It could just as easily been a supplier issue on the paint. We just thru the air cleaners away anyway and got the little chromed Elco air cleaners or put 2 2's or 3 2's on them.