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Very impressive. The settings for the pictures really make the model look real.

Beautiful build, the attention to all the details are amazing.

Outstanding build. I think the dust problem is a combination of low humidity and sometimes wind create static electricity and anything plastic becomes a magnetic to dust. I'm surprised that Porsche didn't provide fillers for the front license mounting holes. I was also in the car business for many years and here in Kansas we also are not required to have a front plate. Most models might have an almost invisible indentation in the front bumper to show where it would be drilled. If you are still in contact with the owner of the 1:1 you might offer them a couple of pictures of your model, I'm sure they would enjoy seeing them.

Very well put together and great black paint job. Black is one of the hardest colors to get right. You might see if there are any decals for the engine call outs on the front fenders, and the tail lights might be upside down. Great build.

This is a great kit, I've built two of them so far. On the paint issues you might check some of the past paint questions on the Q & A section for some input. Unless you are 100% on the Testors paint I would like to offer an alternative. I just finished an El Camino that I used Tamiya TS-21 Gold on. I personally prefer Tamiya products, but many here have great success with Testors also. Do the old plastic spoon thing and try different primer colors under which ever body paint you use, Some times a white primer will make the color brighter than a gray or a black primer. It looks like you have enough different small bottle paint color to cover the spectrum.

Very elaborate paint schemes on both bodies.

Very nice looking Chevelles. You mentioned the box art , the tan and gold checkers on the box especially. Was this kit bought new in a store, or at a swap meet? The reason is that at one time several years ago Wal Mart sold reissued AMT kits with such markings. They would often have a mix of different issues of the same model in the box. This was great for the spare part stash. I agree with you on the chrome bumper and rear valance combo part. In the past I've just sanded and then masked the lower panel and painted it to match.

I will remove or modify them if they don't allow the parts to line up. Otherwise they don't seem to make any difference.

Chevrolet offered an optional F41 Suspension on most all of the body styles including the Camaro. The option included heavy duty springs, shocks, larger diameter front sway bar and a rear sway bar. This may be want they are representing on this kit. I believe that the higher performance cars such as the 396 cu. in. and the 350 SS model and Z28's had multi leaf rear springs as part of their engine package. More base model Camaros used the Mono leaf rear suspension thru the '69 model year. They also offered an optional F21 Suspension that had the HD spring and shocks without the added sway bars. I know nothing about the prototype 1:1 that Revell used for this model, but if it was a factory 396 car I would think that it would have had the F41 suspension from the factory.

It looks like an early Olds engine with 2-2's. A common after market manifold for Olds at the time. The CHP talked about a super charger, but the roadster didn't have one. From the sound when he was shifting he probably had an early Ford transmission with a bad second gear synchronizer.

Thank you for sharing. Some of the trucks look as if they may be on the deck or in the hold of a ship. From the age I would think of a sunken WWII Liberty ship. I remember seeing articles years ago where old buses had been placed around Reefs for fish.

If the Tamiya TS-42 is still to dark Tamiya offers X-32 Titanium silver. You would need to clear it afterwards as it is a semi gloss finish.

In the past I have used some of the following: Chmneyville Hobbies, KA Models @‌ ka-models.com, Ken's Real-Wood adhesive back wood veneer, Ultrcal 5 @‌ innovativehobbysupply.com. You might also check with Gofer Decals. they seem to be coming up with something new all the time.

I would suggest that you actually go ahead and primer again before you go to a color coat. An example, I'm now finishing a kit that has given me fits and one of the problems has been paint. I've had to do the hood over several times. I also get in a hurry and actually cost myself more time. The hood needed sanding after I put to heavy a coat of paint and it started to run. I let dry for a couple of days and then sanded it all the way to 3600 grit and then reapplied a coat of color. Bigger than life you could see where I had sanded. I again sanded the hood as smooth as I could, sprayed primer, sanded the primer and then the color coat. Now it turned out perfect. One of the reasons for using primer is to fill all of the micro scratches you just can't see. Since you're doing all this work over again anyway think about giving that a try. The nozzle thing, at least for my self, seems to center around the use for Model Master Enamels. The lacquers not so much. I really like how your wood trim has turned out.

Beautiful Squad build. I looked on your link and enjoyed the '67 wagon also. I didn't know that CPD used 6 cylinder cars. I'm sure it saved the city on operating expenses but if that had to chase a "Purp", say a "J" Walker or something they would be at a disadvantage.

In addition to all the great info on surface preparation you said you were disappointed in the paint finish. You have been experiencing colder weather than we have here and that may be playing a part of your problem. From the photo it looks like the paint is either to "dry" when it reaches the body surface or maybe the spray nozzle is partially blocked. If you haven't tried already, soak the nozzle in thinner and clean with a very fine pin to clean the nozzle. Before spraying set the spray can in very warm water only about 1" to 2" deep. Let set there for at least 5 minuets. It is a good idea to shake the can periodically during this time. You want to be sure that the area you are painting in has an ambient temperature of at least 60 degrees or warmer. When you spray the body you want to be sure that you hold the spray can less than a foot away. Like you I paint most of my models with spray cans still. By doing that in this manner the color sanding and polishing has been minimal. Hope this will help.

At least the Manufacture is reputable, the supplier not so much.

Thank you for the info. I have one of these Cougar kits but just never got around to building it.

If you go with the shorter wheel base version you could use the Trans Axle from a front wheel drive Cadillac Eldorado or an Oldsmobile Toronado.

Interesting and very creative conversion. Could you share the reason for the floor boards being changed ? Also the Yellow Chassis looks like the rear wheel base is just a little short. I have not built this model, but wonder what the short comings are on the engine bay ?

I have to agree with the three piece rear window designs looks. As for the '58 Pontiac it took on the heavy look of all the General Motors line at that time. The models that I think suffered the most were the Buick and Oldsmobile, it seemed as if The General couldn't through enough chrome on them. You're right Bill, but it would be very easy to make a "Vert" out of a hardtop.

I agree with the money theory. Tony left Joe Gibbs Racing when they switched to Toyota. At that time Tony said it was because he wanted to stay with Chevrolet. How true that was is any ones guess. Tony had used Chevrolet engines in all of his sprint cars and other forms of racing for years, so this may have been true. I can see where he may be on a more level playing field with Ford, but it still is about the money. He really should look to some better qualified drivers going forward if he ever expects his team to really be competitive in the future.

I'm not a big NASCAR builder, but I'll be doing a couple of these.

Great looking Trans Am. Nice to see a different color combo.

Your doing a great save here. The color choice will really show off the body lines. I'm not sure that a vinyl roof would help the look, it would chop off the flow of the roof where it would meet the trunk. If you're going for the showroom look I think that Ford offered the GT type stripes, that you would usually see on a Torino, on the full size Fords. This may give you an option if you think the body really needs it.