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Your carb is mounted low on the passenger side, it's an up draft type carb and not the down draft that most people are familiar with.

I have a chair that I purchased on sale at an office supply store. It has a well padded seat and the ability to adjust the seat height. It swivels and is on rollers so that it is easy to move around. If you are on a carpeted surface I would also invest in a plastic or some other hard surface to lay over the carpet so as not to ware it out, and it makes it a lot easier to find small parts when they get dropped. This may require a larger investment then what you want to do now, but if you look around these items can be found used and save a lot of money there. I share your back problems, I'm waiting to get into the Chiropractors office today. How you sit makes a big difference and I think everyone has to do it just a little differently.

That should look great.

So sad, but so real looking. This should be in a diorama or something.

Really like the color. Nice clean build.

Great build.

These cars made great customs. Are you going tutone or staying solid ? Is this a curbside or does it have an open hood?

I like the rear roll pan.

Thinking back the dealerships that I remember usually carried brands from within their own manufacturer. For GM say the Chevrolet, if not a stand alone dealership, would have say Oldsmobile. That way they could offer an upscale model without competing with themselves. Cadillac might offer a Buick or Oldsmobile as a lower priced alternative. Pontiac usually had a GMC Truck combo so that they had a truck to also sell. Ford did much the same thing with Ford usually as a stand alone. Usually they would have Lincoln with Mercury as an upscale dealership. A lot of this started in the era just before WW II when in the more rural areas there was few if any dealerships. Many of the very early dealerships started with a repair garage that was given exclusive rights to sell a particular brand of automobile. It would just grow from there over time. You have to think about the initial investment to open a dealership. Just the building alone was very expensive and some of the earliest franchises were often owned and operated by the manufactures. Now they manufactures may own the land and building that they lease to the dealer, the manufactures still have a lot of control over what the dealer can and cannot sell.

Cool idea just question the window opening on the rear doors. With the angled B pillar the side window would have to raise at an odd angle. Looking forward to watching this build.

In addition to all of the great information from others, a paint you might want to try is a Rust-Oleum product. It is designed to be used on indoor / outdoor projects. I used black but they have a few other colors. It dries with a fine textured finish in one coat. I suggest that if you use this that it would be the last thing you do on the body. I don't think you could mask over it and not have paint get under the tape. If you use a white color it could make a good base for lighter colored tops.

Beautiful cherry old Merc. Are going to leave it stock or add the GT style hood with the twin scoops ?

Thank you for sharing. I agree with the overdone patina look. If they are trying to look old and rusty it should be covered with a flat clear. Rust is not shinny.

I have gotten some K&N style air cleaners from Scale Dreams www.Scaledreams.Com. They offer several different shapes and are extremely accurate. You may even find they cost less also.

I have also used Modelhaus bodies and other conversion parts and have never been less than 100 % pleased with them. The interior looks great, but I wonder about the holes in the floor. Are they maybe for mounting bucket seats ? The wheels look more like a standard wheel that would have a hub cap covering it. The suggestion of the "police" style wheel would make the most sense. The pictures I have seen of restored 1:1 cars have a wheel with the vents as seen on those wheels.

Turned out great.

Most of the kit tires have an almost to shinny appearance on the sidewalls. I think that the flat clear from Tamiya gives a more realistic look. I have also found that if you have used any type of white wall or raised lettering treatment the chance of smudges are minimalized. I'm finishing a model now that I'm using the reissued Good Year tires on. On a previous build I some how whipped off a couple of the letters on the tires and really lost the look I was going for. This has not been a problem since I started doing the flat clear. Try it on a spare tire and see what you think.

Great looking build. Your photography real shows all of the work that went into this.

Wonderful tribute to a great racer and builder. You know Dan is still alive and well in California, he might enjoy a picture of your build. A real outstanding build.

Beautiful paint job. I got a kick out of the Kansas tags on it. With the setting of the back ground and the finish on the model it's hard to tell at first if it is a real car or not.

All great ideas. Another is to pickup some ladies finger nail sanding sticks. They are usually very inexpensive and most drug store or even the market carries them. As pointed out the very fine ones if you're doing the side walls. Another thought, After sanding the tread mask it off with tape and lightly spray flat clear on the side walls.

Beautiful paint and great foil job. The color combo really stands out.

Great color, and the foil looks good.

The wheelbase doesn't look that far off. Is the NASCAR chassis to wide to fit under the running boards in the middle of the body ? Just from the picture it looks like you could shorten the race car floor boards behind the gas tank and remove the ducting for the front radiator and it might just fit. The chassis may still be just a little to wide in which case you could narrow the race chassis just in front of the rear tires and where it angles out behind the front tires. Just an idea if it fits with what you're thinking.

Great build and lots of attention to detail on the engine.