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You really got the look of a nice daily driver from that time period. Every one has a favorite Tri Five, mine is the '56.

Tyler, Are sure your a beginner ? I've seen your two paint jobs and the detail work on this engine sure looks like you have a lot more modeling experience than most beginners. This is turning out just as good as your dune buggy.

As others have mentioned, the raisers for the carbs are way to big. At one time some VW engine builders were using much shorter raisers to create a plenum between the carb and the heads. I would suggest you consider either shortening or even removing the raisers altogether. The air cleaners are a little over sized and something like the small air cleaners used on the Pontiac Tri-Power set ups might be a better fit. That way it should clear the body and still give you the look of a high performance engine. I think the instructions for the front suspension and the brake drums in particular are a little misleading. You paint job looks great.

You're off to a good start. I see that you are using the Pegasus wheels and tires. I built one a few years ago and I can tell you if you haven't figured it out yet the inner fenders are going to need some surgery. The rear are fairly easy, just tub the rear wheel wells in the bed. The front will need the inner fenders reshaped also.

Your scratch building and detail, rust is unbelievable.

HGTV used to have a regular series on homes that had served a much different purpose when first built. They had some very interesting homes built from mostly old commercial buildings. Being an old car guy I always harbored a desire of converting an old car dealership. You know, a large area to work on old cars with living quarters attached.

Very interesting ! What did you use for the see thru screen on the rear deck ?

Great build. Your color choice gives it a more contemporary look.

Just a thought, you will want to be very carful masking the rear panel. When you remove the tape you might remove the foil also, Another suggestion on the bumpers and the glass, try Future Shine on both. You should try it on scrapes first to see if it gives you the look you're after. With the glass you will want to make sure there is no lint or finger marks. I usually dip the windows in a small container of Future then dab the bottom edge on a paper towel to remove the excess. The bumpers can be done the same way or just brush on. This will make the glass clearer and easier to dust off in the future. The area between the moldings and the tail lamp moldings would normally be a painted some what flat finish silver. I only bring this up since it looks like you're going for a stock look. Beyond that it could be what ever you wanted to be, chrome - polished aluminum - engine turned aluminum or painted.

Model Master offers Hemi Orange in their Custom Lacquer line. I think it may give you the color you're looking for.

Beautiful build. I have to agree, the body and interior modifications really make it stand out.

Both beautiful builds. I can see why they had you build models of their pride and joys.

Great build, I really like the aggressive look. If not knockoffs maybe just a flat cover like they use on American 5 spokes.

Great looking build. As for the clear over foil issue there is a couple of different opinions. I always foil after I've cleared and polished everything. I have seen where other builders here prefer clear over the foil and feel that that is the best way to do it. I would leave it up to you, but I don't think you would have a problem if you cleared the body now. The only thing that might give you a problem would be any surface that you would want a less than shinny finish. I'm thinking the panel on the on the trunk lid around the tail lights.

I have to agree that Revell's kits in the early years were very intimidating to a young builder. They didn't have the 1 to 3 builder ratings that we see today. Looking back I feel that Revell was trying to offer as accurate a kit as possible. Revell and all of the model companies of the time didn't have the ability to mold the detail they were after and still offer a simplified kit. While they seemed daunting at the time , now they seem a little fiddly and about a 2 1/2 to 3 build now.

What about the Mercury Marine engine built for Chevrolet to use in the Corvette in the '90's ? The engine had duel overhead cams and looks very exotic. If you're looking for something a little more current then maybe a tricked out LS7 engine. I really like the look of this body, but the body lines from the top of the front and rear wheel openings are not something that I personally like but I guess it goes with the general overall look.

That's really neat, great idea. To turn a corner you would have to start a half a block ahead of time with that wheel base, but the ride would be smooth on the open road.

I have often wondered the same thing Ron. When I found your post it was already on the third page and almost over looked it. I think what may happen has nothing to do with you but how the site works. As people look at and post their opinion on someone's build it then goes to the top of the stack. Each time someone posts it keeps pushing everyone else down. If no one posts anything pretty soon you get pushed to the second or even third page. I always look for the date someone posts and if it's only been a day or two I'll look to see if it's something I missed. Someone else may just go by it if it's on the second page or beyond. It's a theory, but it's what I think may be happening to you.

That must have been one long day. Model turned out beautiful, well done.

Great theme build. Would love to do something like this.

I am fortunate to have a few trophies, In my "room" I have a couple of book cases with adjustable shelves where I can display built models and keep reference materials. I display the trophies on the top along with a couple from Super Chevy Magazine shows years ago for a 1:1 Monte Carlo. I'm the only one that ever sees them, but it is kind of reassuring to look at them at times.

I have used Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ and have had positive experience bonding plastic and resin both.

If you are forced to buy a kit just for the engine and you want a period Hot Rod Flat Head, look for the '50 Ford pick-up. It has the Arden overhead conversion, looks somewhat like a Hemi, and has 3-2's with nice stacks instead of air cleaners. Also has some nice beauty rims and hub caps. You could always build the pick-up later with the engine from the '29.

I have had very mixed results with resin cast parts and bodies. In to many cases its just more trouble than its worth, What I did do on a resent build that I wanted a cowl hood for was use the hood from the '69 Nova SS. I cut the cowl portion of the hood and cut out the center of the hood for a '66 Impala build. The hoods are the same thickness which helped and only used minimal filler. I would suggest you try making your own, and if it turns out the way you want then cast it your self for the future.

Really like the build style. Great paint and a lot of engine.