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You might try using aluminum tubing for the axles. This would give you the strength you are looking for and they can be bent as needed. Another alternative would be brass rod as it would be easier to bend into shape, just not quite as strong as tubing.

I like this build a lot. While I'm not a fan of those wheels, the way you painted them makes them look perfect.

Great looking build. It looks even better since you redid the suspension.

Turned out great especially since its a very basic kit going in. Are you going to add the trim around the windows or is that the look you're going for ?

Beautiful build. I've been trying to find this kit locally and your already posting a finished build. I have the Tamiya TS-11 Maroon already, but now I may look at either gray or the dark blue. Any build problems ?

Beautiful build, well thought out with a different engine and other details.

Great looking build. Well detailed chassis, really like the exhaust tips. What interior did you use ? It looks like it should have been that way from the factory.

I agree with you on the copper color. I built this kit some time ago and your blue is very close to the color I used. I'll enjoy watching your build.

Looks like an interesting build and its nice to have a reference car so handy. I like to see restored cars such as your own. Its good to see such low production models like this preserved.

I think you might find the best Ford FE block engine in the AMT '60 Ford Starliner. In the kit its is presented as a 352 cu in I believe. The 390 engine would look the same, and the '60 kit offers several different carb. set ups.

You might check out Model Master FS33722 Modern Desert Sand, Tamiya TS-68 Wooden Deck Tan or TS-46 Light Sand. These are lighter shades but with a little wash on the interior the look very convincing.

In "real life" there were companies in the '50's that made knock offs of the Olds Fiesta and Dodge Lancer hub caps in both 14" and 15" so that any car could have a set. These hub caps were stolen more often then than "mag" wheels are today.

It can be lowered by altering the front spindles and creating lowering blocks between the rear leaf springs and the differential.

Great show, thank you for sharing your pictures.

You lost the carburetor and they only wanted $4 to replace the carburetor that you lost? I would of ordered a couple extras just to have, I think that is a good deal.

As I posted in the After Market section some time ago my experience was very disappointing and I was treated with complete disinterest by who ever I talked to on the phone. It is encouraging to hear that others are having much better experience with Moebius. I had a warped frame in the Ventura kit, a warped body and frame in the Satellite, and a Belvidere that had a warped body and virtually no door lines on the body. The hobby shop where I purchased the kits graciously replaced the Belvedere kit with one they had just received. While the body was still slightly warped it was far from what I originally purchased and at least I had a starting point to scribe the door lines. They gave me some ideas to correct the Satellite body which seem to be working. I had already built the Ventura and the floor pan seamed to almost correct the warped frame and the rest I made up by altering the suspension so that it would sit on all four tires. The disinterest by Moebius to stand behind their product was very sad as I had built several of their Hudson and Chrysler kits and have nothing but the highest praise for these kits on every level. I would put these kits against any other model company's for fit and finish, and the subjects where far more interesting for many ways. The sudden turn in quality and the personal experience that I had just should not be. I do hope that Moebius can correct these issues as I would like to build some of their future models, but I'm in a wait and see position on any future products until I can see where others are not having anymore quality issues.

One place to look would be the AMT #31931 Street Custom issue of the '55 Chevrolet. The kit offers two sets of bumpers, one set without bumper guards. They will require a little finessing to get them to fit but it is doable. If you remove the guards from the Revell kit be very carful on the front bumpers in the mounting area. The two mounting holes on the back side are deep enough that you can sand thru to them while working on the front.

It looks as thou #12 my be some sort of protective plate for some component.

Just an idea on the interior, I recently built this same kit and didn't care for the decals provided for the interior. I photo copied the interior decals so I had the right size and shape. Then laid the shapes over some interior decals from Scale Motorsport and cut out the patterns that I wanted. These allow the color painted on the seat to show as a back ground and the decal looks like an upholstery pattern. They offer several different patterns to choose from. There are also several other suppliers that you can find here in this site.

I have had a few using the rues that "this is my last chance before the IRS is going to sue". I don't answer any calls on my cell or land line if I don't recognize the number on the caller ID. If it doesn't show the name of the person or company, doctor or what ever I just don't bother answering. If they leave a message and I think it's legit I can call back. I'm home most of the day and it's hard to believe how many calls I get from unknown 800 numbers or no caller ID at all.

I got one in a parts kit I bought once. The kit was a Mercury Cougar, might look around top see if anyone has an old Cougar kit they aren't using the V6 engine.

Many many good ideas on the foil removal. Something that I don't think anyone mentioned is that you want to be very careful when burnishing the foil to use as little if any pressure beyond the trim you're foiling. I have also had some experience with the adhesive residue you mentioned, but my experience is that it has more to do with individual sheets than the product as a whole. What I did in that case was to use a hard pointed type of Q-tip that I think I got from Tamiya. I lightly dipped the tip in their X-20A Thinner to remove the residue from the painted area, then wiped it clean. These cotton tipped tools work well when burnishing the foil also.

I have tried several different clear coats thru the years. I have had no problems with yellowing in over 20 years. I have used Model Master Ultra Gloss Clearcoat and my personal favorite is Tamiya Clear TS-13. The models displayed are always away from direct sunlight and that may be the reason for not yellowing.

They are pretty much in order as I recall it. There was an original issue before all of these that was a 2 in 1 type.

Paint turned out great. Are keeping the nose up ride height ? Like the idea of the blue/white interior.