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There is differences between the grills on '67 and '68 Camaros. The '67 was a relatively flat grill where the '68 had a bit of a "V" shape in that the ends by the head lamps was somewhat deeper than the '67s.

Beyond the bodies warping it has been my personal misfortune to have the tires melt into the bodies and ruin the decals. At best the kits might give you some parts, but I wouldn't give a dime for any of them unless you can see what's inside.

I'm not up on the safety requirements in drag racing any more. But I would think if you are in a class that requires a roll bar you would also need to have a 5point belt. I think the Camaro driver should have shut it down if he's that far out of shape. Not sure what caused the '55 to lose it, but he has got to be one of the luckiest people to walk away from that one.

The '68 Bel Air would be of interest to me if it were a tudor or a wagon.

Like many here we got tired of buying expensive beds that only lasted a few years. Bit the bullet and bought the sleep number bed and have never looked back. For myself I have back issues from an injury when I was young. I'm able to adjust the bed to offset any issues I may be having at any given time. Its a lot of money, but well worth it in the long run.

In the "old days" before air shocks were invented. We Ford owners could put the jack handle in between the frame and the rear leaf springs and pry the shackles until they flipped and it would raise the rear of the car. The hard part was flipping them back to sit in the stock position.

Nicely done.

That's just all wrong!

For the kit its self the only fit issues that I experienced was between the grill-hood and firewall. Other than that it's a nice simple build. For ideas on color and style you might check out Street Rodder magazine's web sight. There are many different style to build this model and the color helps to set the "look" that your after. Please post pictures of your progress. Have fun.

That's the way a "shoe box" is supposed to look. Love it.

About that Fiat! Which way is it going? Kind had to tell.

I'm old enough to remember these. We used to fill them with ice and a little water. My first home had a "Swamp Cooler", that's all I could afford. That should be real "cool" on this cruiser.

What is it ?

I have used Model Master #2909 Light Ivory to make a '65 Chevelle SS Showroom Stock. It's on the pale side and was a popular color on many cars of that era.

As Mark pointed out the seats are not correct for a '72. I bought a new '72 Nova SS and the high backs are what you got if you ordered buckets with the deluxe interior. The molding on the lower part of the body may of been part of an extra cost trim option, mine had the chrome trim around the windows that was extra at that time. All of these things are easy fixes depending on what you are trying to build. The only real; problem with this kit is the front wheel openings are set to far forward and the fenders are hard to line up. I think they were trying to make a "funny car" or something as an option. Some people feel that the rear of this model is more accurate than the current '69 Nova by Revell.

Lets see what your doing with the interior. I'm interested in a similar interior treatment for the '57 I'm building.

Good idea working the pickup rear fenders into the rear quarters.

The grill and rear roll pan look good. I really like the "Jimmy" huffer on the stovebolt.

I also recommend Tamiya products. I have used them for years as well as others, but Tamiya is my default paint. The only thing I have had issues with is on the brush bottles. I stir and then reseal and shake before use. What seems to happen is that the design of the top will get paint into the sealing surface between the lid and the bottle. If unused for an extended period of time they become almost impossible to reopen. What has worked best is to place the bottle upside down in very warm water for a time. Some of the water will get into the cap and soften the dried paint.

They are great. Got mine at Bed, Bath and Beyond. They have several sizes.

He might want his attorney to talk to her attorney. Unless these were given to her as part of the property settlement she might be in trouble. I've been down this road myself. A lot of my possessions went missing many years ago. Had no way to prove anything so I was just out of luck. This guy has some very good proof here. Sad life has to go this way sometimes. I hope no children are involved in this.

Years ago I worked for Union Oil in southern Cal. at the Colton Distribution Center in Colton Cal. One of my jobs was to work at the fueling station at Riverside Raceway. As I remember they never raced any series in the rain.

Saw a resin body of a '58 Edsel with an altered wheel base, now that would be defferant.

Like it a lot. Could be period or part of the current retro look. Well built.

Enjoyed your lead in to the purchase of the model from a real model shop. As many Mopar fans will tell you, the GTX was a luxo muscle car of the day. The first thing I noticed on your photo of the GTX with the hood stripes is that they are incorrect for the '69 model. The '68s had a blackout area that ran between the scopes across the hood and the scopes were flat and more off a horizontal opening. The '69s ran front to back and the scopes were more upright opening on the top. The Ram Air was optional and the grills on the scopes would be painted red. Another car to look at for inspiration might be the Road Runner. This was the more hard core performance version of the same basic body style. On the chassis being warped, you cold try heating it under hot water and try bending it back into shape. I've had the same problem before and never could get the car to set flat even after mounting everything else. Most of all due it your way and please post pictures as you go.