Ace-Garageguy

This is really getting annoying. Something here won't allow me to post additional information. I'm getting "post too old to be edited" and "404 ERROR. We can't find the page you're looking for" messages. Let's see if this will go through.

I've been trying to edit a reply, to add more information, to a post on the questions section, and I either get a "this post can't be edited because too much time has passed" message, or when I try to add the comment in another reply below, I get "404 ERROR. We can't find the page you're looking for". Yet there it is in full, living color.

Glad to help. No reason not to use a front-blown 409. I've never seen one, so it would be very interesting in its uniqueness. Not ALL front-blown setups were Potvin anyway, so even if Potvin didn't make a rig for the 348 / 409, a good machinist / engineer could. The intake manifold for the DD Potvin-Chebbys might fit a kit 409, but I kinda doubt it. The port-spacing for a 348 / 409 is similar to the port spacing of the SBC, but the heads are probably farther apart. You can make up either a one-piece intake manifold as I suggested for the Chrysler, or build a pair of log manifolds. A little more work, but definitely doable. 348/409 intake manifold port-spacing:

The "awesome" tag is applied to almost everything these days, no matter how trivial and insignificant. In reality, very few things really qualify as "awesome". This does. Beautiful beautiful work.

Very nice. There was a similarly set-up 1:1 Morris Minor 'round here some years back. Must be the holy devil to keep 'em going straight when you drop the hammer.

Boy, I can identify with that. I'm so whipped lately at the end of the day (and on weekends) that I rarely put in much more than an hour or two on the bench during any given week. That said, you certainly turn out consistently fine and inspiring work. Always a treat to see your cars come together.

Lots of other good stuff in those kits too, like gearboxes and reinforced Ford 9" rear ends, wrapped headers, fuel cells, radiators, etc. Some are better than others though. And as has already been said, the entire chassis will work well under customs that might have started life as early annuals with blobular underpinnings.

I just pulled the Double Dragster kit off the shelf and it comes with a pair of log manifolds for the Chrysler. I'd forgotten just exactly what was in the kit.

Haken is right about the Chevy manifold for the Potvin setup not fitting on the Chrysler. The Chrysler is wider between the heads and has entirely different port spacing. The blower will probably have to go farther forward on the Chrysler too (the drive mount for the old Hemi is typically longer than the Chebby unit) so you'll possibly have to lengthen the tubes from the blower to the manifold. A little scratchbuilding or modifying stuff you may have in your parts box should get you there, though. One approach would be to start with a simple one-piece manifold for the Hemi (that has the port-runners laid out right, and the right width) and file the top flat, then put tubes on the front of it to reach your blower tubes. That would represent a manifold design similar to what the kit gives you for the Chebbys. Two-piece manifolds were the most common for setting up a 392-family Hemi with the front-drive blower. Start with the "log" style intake manifolds that come in the kit, and file off the mounting plates for the carburetors, then run additional tubes forward to hit your blower tubes. You'll be going for a look like in the pix below. Here are some Potvin / Hemi setups for a guide. Notice the blower-drive mount / timing cover length. Here are a couple of SBC front-drive blower setups for comparison... The point is, you can use the timing cover that comes in the kit for the Chrysler engine, file it flat, and mount the Chebby / Potvin blower drive to it, OR, if you want to save the Potvin drive, you can make up something that looks about right from the rear cover of a parts-box blower (also flied flat on the rear side, and mated to the Chrysler timing cover).

Well, it's kinda a judgement call. If one takes the tires in the big photo to be "black", and they're obviously "weathered" black, then the bellypan forward of the engine is definitely gray. Going by that logic, I'd follow Fujimi's suggestion for a realistic finish.

Excellent turnout at the ACME NNL Southeast event today. Last time I heard, over 600 models registered. Very high quality overall, again an improvement over last year's crop...which was an improvement over the previous year's etc. Some of the models looked so good, I almost wonder why I even bother. Really impressive stuff there...really. Model-car-building does indeed seem to be in a golden period, once again. Got to meet the world-famous Norm from RepMin too, and finally stocked up on all of the bits I've been lusting after. Saved a couple of gluey relics, cheap, and took home a few new kits to boot. First ACME event I've been to in many months...time constraints...but I couldn't pass this one by.

Do you have this one? On the more recent Lambos, the underside shrouds and belly-pans are generally black, with the as-cast alloy control arms and visible engine bits being a dull aluminum color. Over time all of it weathers to the shades of gray in the photo above. A shroud something like this would normally hide all those exposed mechanical parts. Here's a link to a quite accurate AUTOart 1/18 die-cast review, with underside shots. http://www.diecastxchange.com/forum1/topic/11835-lamborghini-gallardo/

Yes, THAT'S a hot-rod. Right stance, right parts, right proportions, right attitude. Perfect.

Looks great, Rob. Nice mix 'n match of assorted bits into a well thought-out and cohesive whole.

Dang Tom...I was hoping to run into you there, say hello in the flesh, smile and shake your hand. Maybe next year...

...ummm...there still are...and still a lot of folks who think they look good too...

It's not a rat-rod. It's just basic...very basic...transportation.

Poor little Oldsmobile.

Mmmmm mmmm...love that Shiner Bock too. Don't see it here any more.

I know I know !! It's an old-timey car with yellow wheels !!!

Here's a thread showing good clear photos of three of the popular Mustang II-style tubular front suspension setups in 1/24-1/25. (The '39 Wagon Rod setup isn't shown) The Revellogram '41 Willys street-rod has tubular IFS AND a 4-link rear end setup.

Enclosed front wheels rarely work, design-wise. Coddington's don't. Figoni et Falaschi built several Delahays that obviously inspired the OP design, and i think some of them work far better...like this:

MMMMM....eating that while looking at Ed's sky...now that would be very nice indeed.

Looks like the site where I found this poor old thing is down.