Ace-Garageguy

Not so hard to do in 1/24, actually. The SIII is longer through the doors (and tub, of course). The rear wheel-arches have added flared lips. The nose is the same as the SII, more or less, but with the addition of mild wheel-arch flared lips as well. The 1/24 Hasegawa XJS-V12 has a decent starting point for the engine.

It's easy. All three above are the Aurora crapp version, as is this roadster... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The GOOD Revell kit is in these boxes... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The reason I've dredged up this old thread is 'cause I just bought a Heller E-type as a base for a model of a client's car I just did a bunch of body mods on, and needed compare-contrast info. However, the real car is an S2, and these kits are mostly S1 cars. The main visual difference is the front lighting configuration and the size and shape of the mouth. The S2 and later cars also hang larger lights under the rear bumper.

If you want to turbo AND supercharge, here's a general layout that actually works, and could be modified for other installations. Remember...it's the order the components are arranged in that matters. This system is from the Lancia Delta rally car of the mid-1980s, but is essentially the same as used by VW and others 20 years later. The turbo sucks clean air through the air filter, and discharges it, compressed and heated, into an intercooler that cools it. The intercooler discharges into the supercharger, which compresses the charge even more, and once again, heats it in the process. Another intercooler lowers the temperature of the charge before it blows into the intake manifold. NOTE: Direct port fuel injection would be necessary for this to work best. A throttle-body system could work, with the TB fitted between the air filter and the turbo, but that's not optimum. NOTE 2: There is a bypass from the intale pipe running over the top of the supercharger shown here. It allows excess manifold pressure to be dumped through a popoff valve to atmosphere or back into the pre-turbo intake tract when the throttle butterflies (most likely on the intake port runners) are snapped closed...much like any turbo system.

One of my exes worked as a bunny at the Atlanta Playboy Club (closed in 1975) before I met her. Honest.

Yes, definitely.

Yeah, it's possible. BUT... The problem with many of the overkill setups is simple lack-of-common-sense functionality...and I've seen a lot of it. For instance, the way the turbos in the photo above appear to be plumbed, any boost produced by them will blow out the throttle butterflies as soon as they're opened. Pressurized air will take the path of least resistance. But wait...the turbos are sucking through carburetors, which are fuel-metering devices, and they're discharging into the base of the injector, which is another fuel-metering device. Ridiculous. While it may look "cool" to have all that complicated plumbing, there's little chance for it to work well the way it appears to be put together. Think about it. EDIT: YUP. I just looked up the actual engine, and the throttle butterflies are FAKE, and sealed from behind. That's the only possible way this thing could work. Article here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/rick-dobbertins-pro-street-nova-set-for-barrett-jackson-las-vegas/

It's a video.

What you have is called surface "crazing" caused by using a paint that has solvents in it that are too "hot" for plastic car models. This isn't opinion. It's fact, based on many many years doing this stuff, and having (and overcoming) every problem you can have. I recognize the symptoms immediately. A "hot" paint, like automotive "touchup" or others in spray cans not made specifically for models, requires a primer barrier coat to keep the solvents from eating into the bare plastic and causing the dull, etched surface you have here. This "crazing" also pulls up and makes noticeable the swirl-marks in the plastic left from the molding process. If you want to avoid these problems, only use paints like Testors and Tamiya that are made specifically for models. If you want to use other paints, there's WAY too much info to impart in one answer, but here are some threads dealing with part of the "hot" solvent problem. Once you understand what you're doing and develop your skill, you can get results like this from Duplicolor rattlecan paint...

Wow, you are indeed lucky being close to that museum. I think the Big Boys are some of the most beautiful machines ever made, all power and purpose, but still graceful. Must be great to get to see one up close. I acquired some inexpensive built-ups of the static Revell kit that looked like they'd been a grade-school project, most of the parts painted in various bright colors with tempera...but pretty easy to strip. There's a fair amount of video info on youtube about the restoration of UP #4014.

See any resemblance?

It pumps the rear end oil through a cooler. One line out of the diff to the pump, a line from the pump to a cooler, a line from the cooler back to the diff. Google image search "nascar differential cooler" for lotsa pix.

That's the plan...if I make it out there. The three jobs I have to finish up will now likely take me into the end of the first quarter or 2018, as I missed some work time due to a little injury, and then I have a few of my own project cars to either get back on the road, prep for moving or dispose of. Hopefully, I'll be out there within a year...realistically, maybe a little longer.

Me too...loved trains since I was a kid. Steam was still in use then, and the highlight of my week was if my father had time to take me to watch a freight rumble through on Saturday afternoon. A short-line railroad that's been in almost continuous operation since 1854 (seven different road names and owners, but largely the same route) runs just across the street from my front yard of the last four years. A lot of the neighbors hate it and complain about the horns, but to a little kid who loved trains (and never grew out of it) it's pretty cool. I see a high-hood GP9 occasionally, and a host of later EMD GP locomotives. Mostly covered hoppers, covered coiled sheetmetal cars, and open forest-products cars. The number of movements on this stretch of track has picked up dramatically since I've been here, and there's a small new yard a few blocks away that's usually full of hoppers and tank cars servicing the Dow coatings plant. I think it's living so close to the trains that's sparked my interest again, and that old GP9 brought back memories of the first Lionel locomotive I had as a kid. I don't have room for a layout either, but I sometimes put a few lengths of flex track out on a couple of drafting tables pushed together, and run some short trains back and forth. I've been experimenting with some old pulse-power controllers that will get a decent engine to creep along very slowly too. Lotsa fun. I could go on about trains all night.

Exquisite.

Surely from the land of way-more-money-than-taste-or-talent. Horrible proportions. I mean HOR RI BLE. But hey...I bet the air blows cold while it gets 1 MPG pulling a trailer full of camels. Yup. Here it is, including videos. https://www.yahoo.com/news/behold-the-giant-spider-the-worlds-oddest-custom-118867248912.html

The info in the video is a little ambiguous, as it states the "total volume" of a scan is 14 meters with the longest arm. This is actually a nonsensical term, open to interpretation, as 14 meters is NOT a measure of volume, but rather a measure of length. 14 CUBIC meters would have meaning as volume, but as engineers, we can NOT assume anything not specifically stated in correct meaningful units. I'll be looking into this machine shortly, and will disambiguate the actual capabilities.

Me too.

Interesting idea. I'd never considered using striping tape for representing weatherstrip, but it makes sense. It's very thin material, and usually has high quality adhesive. I've got a lot of it lying around (I have been in and out of the body-shop biz for the last 40 years myself), so I'll have to give it a try. Another idea occurs to me...one thing that's usually conspicuously absent on opening panels like doors and decklids is any representation of weatherstrip. A fine slice of black striping tape could be very effective.

This new tech does NOT require messy spray flattening-agent to be applied to surfaces, as some critics of 3D measuring have cited as a reason owners of vehicles would object to having them scanned. These arms are currently capable of scanning objects as long as 14 meters (apparently, but needs disambiguation). Click da link. http://quantum.faro.com/jay-lenos-garage/?utm_campaign=AM_EN_QuantumS_Leno&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Eloqua&elqTrackId=9e05a11f3f584e81b7521070eb526f5d&elq=e08b6a21aab44ef2838ad3337e0d6453&elqaid=14601&elqat=1&elqCampaignId=1806

I remember following along as Harry built many of these, and how inspiring it was to see the intelligence, talent, skill and care he brought to his work. I think of him often, and imagine I always will.

It was indeed an Olds in the '39-'40 Tudor sedan kit, and one of the setups was Hilborn 8-port fuel injection, along with three 2-barrels. The 3X2 manifold and front cover work very well on the later Olds engines from Revell. The Pontiac was in all the '36 Fords.

Everything is peachy-keen everywhere, all rainbows and unicorns and butterflies and bunnies.

Pretty baby. Nice work.

A custom crew-cab stretch with a set in sunroof is some pretty serious metalwork. I'm impressed.

I have a Cooper, as you're doing here, a Simca-Gordini, a Maserati 250F and a Vanwal. Plus a few Talbot-Lagos and Alfa Romeo Alfettas in both Merit and SMER boxing. Also the Jag D-type and Aston Martin DB3 S, both cleanly built but falling apart, so rebuilding will be much like starting fresh. Some of the Merit tooling (that didn't go to SMER) ended up with Premier (at least the Aston Martin did), and The Ferrari looks like it may very possibly have become the MPC or Strombecker slot car. I have what I believe is the Strombecker version.