Miatatom

I use Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer. (PT-56)

My first job out of college was at the Y-12 Nuclear Weapons plant in Oak Ridge, TN. I did a lot of work in "glove boxes" which look a lot like my booth. You can find a pretty nice blast booth at Harbor Freight that's a lot like my booth. It'll be made of metal so static charges might be an issue but there are remedies for that. I just looked them up at Harbor Freight. A bench top model is $129 and a stand up is $189. I'd spring for the stand up. It's already set up as a down draft.

It's undergone several modifications since I took these pics but I made this one from 1 sheet of plywood and some 2 x 4s. It's 2' deep, 3' wide and 3' tall. Those are plastic gloves hanging down the front. Don't use them any more. Added more lights on top. It's a down draft with the exhaust running through the wall to an outside vent.

Great job! That one looks like it's ready for a track day.

Welcome, Levi! Don't be shy, most of us do so so on our work. Some are in a league of their own. Let's see what you've accomplished.

I've got 2 cans of that and someday, I'll decide on something to put it on.

Watched it on the NASA channel.

I use 4' LED lights from Harbor Freight. Only $19.99 each.

One of the forum members has a great saying, "instructions are just someone else's opinion".

I usually buy my supplies from Hobbylinc but they only have Micro Sol in packs of 12 for $44.28. What other sources are there? Is there a good substitute besides Microscale Industries?

I wonder if spraying clear over the decals to seal them after they have been applied would prevent this?

Thanks guys! I'll be patient. ?

I build mostly race cars so obviously, there's a lot of decal work. I've got two sets taped to a window to get rid of the yellowing. In your experience, how long have you typically had to leave them exposed to sunlight in order to get rid of the yellowing?

Beautiful styling, beautiful sound. I'd get chill bumps if I were trackside.

When I was in the Navy, stationed in Norfolk, Va, there was one I saw in Virginia Beach several times. Beautiful car, sounded weird. What a shame too destroy them.

I found a BUNCH of videos on Youtube. Just search for "painting stripes on model cars".

Thanks, Glen.

At times I get some orange peel shooting in the 20s. I'm going to try dropping some press when using the PS-290. What pressure do you use?

I spray in the low 20s.

I use dedicated brushes for decal work.

I haven't tried a pressure that high but will give it a try.

There's another race tomorrow night.

I'm trying to save some old decals and I'm using Microscale Liquid Decal Film. How do you guys use it? One heavy coat or one thin coat or several heavy coats or several thin coats?

I'm surprised that I wasn't caught with my mistake. The three sizes aren't 1, 2 and 3, they're 1, 3 and 5. Number one is .45 mm, number 3 is .64 mm and number 5 is 1.06 mm. I've attached a pic of all three with the two different air caps (pictured on the right). You can identify each by the number of rings machined into each piece.The aircap on the right with no rings is used with the number 1 and 3 needle and tip. The number 5 aircap is for the number 5 needle and tip. I use the #5 most with pressure set to 20-25 pounds depending on what I'm shooting. I usually use the H for chassis and interior work and the Procon Boy PS-290 for bodies..

Pro boy PS-290.