Miatatom

My avatar says it all. ?

Thanks, Rob. That's a great resource.

VIR, April 2003. Won my class in the Sunday morning Enduro. The guys with the cheater engines wouldn't run an hour race for fear of blowing up. My engine was built by Will and Bill Perry of Rivergate Restorations. The car was built by Bill and is a replica of his HP car from the 60s. Right hand drive made for some adjusting but I found it much better than left drives. You could see the apexes! ?

That's pretty cool! Mighthave to try that.

I ran the Bugeye with Vintage Drivers Club of America in the early 00's. Also ran a Zink FVee C4 with HSR in the 90s. I was late to racing but did get to experience it. I was the RE for the Chattanooga Region in 92 and raced autocross and Solo I with this Royale RP 31-M throughout the 90s. That FF was a SARC championship car. A lot more car than drive, in my case. ?.

Thanks, I'll make a note to look him up.

In another post, I asked which printer to buy. From the answers I got, I've pretty much decided there's none. So, with that being said, who makes good decals? I'm wanting decals made to complete a replica of my old race car.

I know everyone is saying laser but the prices for anything that isn't monochrome are high. Any suggestions for inkjet printers and associated materials?

Your skills have diminished? It looks great to me. I wish I could do that well.

I need to replace a dead printer and I need one that can do a decent job on decals. I'd like to spend less than $200. Well, much less if possible. What do you giys recommend?

Will do. Just getting started building after over a year lay off. I'll be in touch.

Dave, what's your mix ratio for the very clear clear and the more traditional looking clears? I'm thinking of giving the X-22 a try. I like the Tamiya canned lacquers.

Tamiya TS-13 or sometimes Modelmaster clears.

Nice build! I got to meet Ed at the Oakland Roadster Show in 1963. He sprayed a Mothers Worry sweatshirt for me.

Thanks for all the hard work. We appreciate it.

Interesting technique. Gotta build the cage for my Bugeye in my avatar. I'll try this method.

Since I live about 15 miles from the place, I have no excuse not to go. Hope they have some cars.

Bright lights help too! ?

One tip I have for mixing bottles is to cover the mouth of the bottle with Press and Seal and then screw the lid on. No messy threads on the lid or bottle.

I got mine from Scale Finishes, but that takes an airbrush.

Great job! Very similar to an idea I had. The only difference was the tow vehicle would be a beater and the race car would look way better than the truck. Most of my 1:1 race cars looked way better than the tow vehicle.

Reminds me of the Hoonigan Mustang.

I'm in!

I question using a drill press. It'll melt the plastic. Drill them out with a pin vise.

Ok Scott, here's my method. I bought a cheap electric toothbrush and several refill brushes. You have to remove the bristles from the heads. I used hemostats to grab each bundle of bristles and pull them out. I used .030 plastic stock to create small circles and stamped them out using a punch. I them glued them to the heads to create a flat surface. Next, I cut different lengths of plastic tubing and glued them to the heads. Cut another piece for the end and glued it on. Then I use padded double sided tape to stick different grit paper on the tips. Here are some pics. Makes sanding pin marks in a headliner a breeze. I use a brush with short bristles to remove paint in tight areas.