Miatatom

I would have but sadly, he died some time back. He was not your typical professor. He could ride the hell out of a dirtbike. When he went for his interview at the college, he'd been working on the Jag and didn't even bother to change. His credentials spoke for themselves and he was hired on the spot. One of a kind.

I finished this XKE on Christmas eve. It's a replica of one of my college professors car. His name was Keith Lee and he was our Nuclear Science professor. I bought my first motorcycle from him too, a 67 Honda 305 Scrambler. I got to ride in the XKE once and it was a thrill. I covered the red plastic with Createx white using it as a primer. Wound up with a little too much paint buildup. The primrose yellow and clear are from Scale Finishes. The spark plug wires are a little out of scale too.

Something that I recently picked up on in a video on Youtube was to be sure not to spray all the paint in the cup out. Leave a little and there's less chance of drying the cup and nozzle/tip out. What did you use to clean it with and what type of airbrush were you using? I use the Procon PS-290 for spraying bodies.

This is a replica of my 1960 Austin Healey Sprite that I raced until 2003. It's the one in my avatar, taken at Virginia International Raceway.

What brand of primer are you using under Createx and craft paints?

I'm going to do some experiments with Createx Wicked paints as well as Anitas craft paints. Can I spray them over sanded plastic without primer?

Thanks. These are the first pics of model cars I've taken with my Galaxy S22+. No special lighting or settings.

Thaanks.

I've got another unopened one in my stash.

I stand corrected.

I haven't finished a model in quite a while and it feels good to have something under glass. This is a MPC kit and the fit is reasonable but certainly not like Tamiya kits. Paint and clear are Scale Finishes. This was a learning experience using base coat and clears and I'm not really satisfied with the finish. The side number decals were really hard to work with. There are a number of mistakes but my skills never were great and as I age, they aren't improving. But it is what it is and I'm over beating myself up over results. Just trying to have fun building again and accepting the results.

Thanks!

That's what I thought too, so I built my own. I based it on the ones I used to work with when I was at the Y-12 Nuclear Weapons Plant in Oak Ridge, Tn. That's not me in the picture at the bottom and the boxes we used were like the one I built, with one big window.

A couple of questions. What is the name of the circle cutter you used to make circular stencils (at the 4:41 mark) and where did you get it? Also, what is the brand name of the white modeling masking tape you used and where did you get it?

I'd read enough about the S22 line that I wanted one. Got it in May and it's the best cell phone I've owned. Granted, I was using Tracfone junk, but when we decided to take the plunge, the S22 was at the top of most reviews I'd read. In addition, many of them said the 22+ was the same as the Ultra, minus one camera lens. The S23 will be released soon. You could wait for it or get a S22 at a discount. I'm retired and have no affiliation with Samsung.

That was one of the main reasons I bought it. There are several tip videos on Youtube. Still learning.

If you prefer Android phones, I've got a Samsung S22+. Still learning how to take pics with it. I paid retail back in the spring but they're on sale now. Best cell phone I've ever owned. Takes terrific low light pics.

I've trimmed all the areas that seem to be interfering and went with the epoxy and Tamiya tape. I'm going to let it dry for several hours before I remove the tape.

"I was going to make espresso". That line was an ad-lib by Hackman and Brooks liked it so much, he left it in the final cut. Hackman wanted to do comedy so bad that he said he'd do Young Frankenstein for nothing. I bet he was paid though. He was hilarious. At 78, I look a lot older than he does. He looks great.

No, it's a MPC. I've trimmed some places down but still have a small gap. I'll probably go with the epoxy and tape method. I've just about trimmed everywhere that I can see any interference and the gap is smaller. There isn't any place to attach tabs that I can see.

I commented in this thread back in January. Since then I've been using my Procon PS 290 and it seems to work fine at about 20 psi.

I'm building a McLaren and have a small gap on both sides. If I press down on each side, the gap closes. My question is, how do you glue these parts together without sitting there for 10 minutes till the glue dries?

Welcome to the group, Pasquale.

A poorly grounded toaster.