Miatatom

I built a XKE molded in red plastic. Used Createx Wicked white as a primer and got zero bleed through.

Nice bird with good details. Have you tried the Createx 4053 yet? It's supposed to be more glossy than the 4050. I've got some 4050 but I used acrylic enamel clear on my last build. Was the 4050 easy to work with?

We watch A Christmas Story every year. She was the perfect balance to Darren McGaven and his antics.

Yeah, if I'm really tired of scrolling, I'll do that.

I've been using the duck for a while and noticed the same thing. Anyone using anything they'd recommend?

Welcome to the forum.

White Tamiya masking tape? It's pretty thin. I'm saying use it as the molding, not for masking.

That's how I'd do it, Sidney.

TransAmMike is right. I use the PS-290 for bodies and it perform like a spray gun does on 1:1 cars. The Paasche is good for everything else. That price from Spraygunner is great too. I paid $130 for mine but even at that price, I don't regret it. If you're on a budget, the Paasche will work. If you want to do it right the first time and can afford it, the PS-290 can't be beat at that price.

The Paasche is a great airbrush. You can spray both enamels and lacquers with it. It's probably cheaper than an Iwata.

There's a learning curve, but I like the Createx line of paints.

Too young to die.

Jeez, I'm 78, 79 in May.

I wish my hands were that steady.

I tried everything back in the 70s. Is that what you're asking? ?

Nice start. Lots of detail. I'd mess that up for sure.

Love that sound.

I'm hoping your surgery goes well. Modern doctors and medical procedures are very advanced and should give you a new lease on life. Your kids are great. Keep hope alive and stay positive. Best wishes to you and your family.

Where do you find clear plastic sheet?

I always try to make the "glass" in my models look clearer but dipping them in Future. Sometimes they look great and sometimes not. What are your tips and tricks for making them clearer? How do you handle and place them without messing them up?

I watched the video from Createx. Did you sand the model first? I always use a wet brush and Comet scouring powder to scuff my models instead of sanding them. Additionally, I'm assuming you used 4011 to reduce it by 15% to 20%. On the video, Chris said the drying time was 10 to 15 minutes. My suggestion is to send an email directly to Createx. They are excellent at responding quickly. It's a holiday weekend so you might have a little delay. I was having problems with their 4030 clumping up with 4012 reducer but they responded today that I should be using 4011. I'm going to try that this afternoon.

I would have but sadly, he died some time back. He was not your typical professor. He could ride the hell out of a dirtbike. When he went for his interview at the college, he'd been working on the Jag and didn't even bother to change. His credentials spoke for themselves and he was hired on the spot. One of a kind.

I finished this XKE on Christmas eve. It's a replica of one of my college professors car. His name was Keith Lee and he was our Nuclear Science professor. I bought my first motorcycle from him too, a 67 Honda 305 Scrambler. I got to ride in the XKE once and it was a thrill. I covered the red plastic with Createx white using it as a primer. Wound up with a little too much paint buildup. The primrose yellow and clear are from Scale Finishes. The spark plug wires are a little out of scale too.

Something that I recently picked up on in a video on Youtube was to be sure not to spray all the paint in the cup out. Leave a little and there's less chance of drying the cup and nozzle/tip out. What did you use to clean it with and what type of airbrush were you using? I use the Procon PS-290 for spraying bodies.

This is a replica of my 1960 Austin Healey Sprite that I raced until 2003. It's the one in my avatar, taken at Virginia International Raceway.