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While I am waiting for the 2K clear on the 1974 Corvette to cure I decided to see what it was going to take to get a Resin Tran-kit of a 1968 Mustang California Special I picked up a short while back to fit well. It will be a slow build while I finish the Corvette and my wife asked me to build. 1957 Thunderbird next. Now that I have finished the five current family owned Mustangs I decided I am going to build a series of “the ones that got away”. I used to own a J-code (302-4v), auto, PS, AC California Special in lime gold, with standard lime gold interior. The resin body needed a lot of work to make things fit, even the parts that came in the resin kit didn’t fit all that well together. The resin front seats will not be used, they really don’t look good to me. The 1968 GT kit seats look and fit better. I started fabrication to get the front windshield from the 1968 kit and an old AMT coupe back window I had in the parts bin to fit. That still needs a lot of work.

A recent aquisition and completion. Fisher Model and Pattern 1968/69 Porsche 908 longtail. Paint is Tamiya TS26 white and Testor Flourescent green for the accent. Modifications include steering wheels, seatbelts, dash switches and a few others. This particular car was driven to 1rst place at the SPA 1000 by Jo Siffert and Brian Redman. Thanks for looking and comments welcome. A fairly simple kit, as most resin are. Windscreen wipers are very delicate and took some patience. Minimal decals but all went on perfect. Those latches didn't want to come off the carrier sheet easily...also quite delicate. Window fit took some time but was worth during final assembly. All fit well. Wheels are painted Tamiya Dark Iron. Don't usually take this picture but there were some detail worth seeing.

Another completion..on a roll now. Have had this kit going on 25yrs and was always afraid of ruining the beautiful decals included in this kit. But decals don't last forever and it was about time to bring this one to the bench. R esin kits are like like a block of fine marble. Its a real test of the artists skill to turn this into a masterpiece. so are easier than others, like the last one I did. I have played with this one a few times over the years. Lots of clean-up and various modifications but not as bad as I first thought. Decals turned out to be a real dream and I wondered why it took me so long. Rest of the details in the picture captions. Thanks for looking. BNon steering wheels on any model hasalways been a pet peeve of mine. Here was the solution on this one. All done and on its wheels. The decals over those front vents were a real challenge. I cut them into 42 seperate pieces and tediously applied them. Then waited for them to cure and touched them up with paint. Turned out way better than laying them on in one piece and trying to melt them in place with solvent and heat. The vents were pretty deep. Rear veiw and not as much engine detail as the last one but enough to make it interesting. The rear axle gave me fits. The lower part of the chassis is covered in Mylkar foil. The top and bottom did not line up exactly and some sheet styrene had to be added to make up the difference. Gotta touch up that number 7 Camera never lies. Interior was well detailed and probably could have used some more but my patience was wearing out. Photo etch seat bels and steering wheel center were a nice touch. There is a very obvious error here. Lets see how bad it is if any of you can spot it. Nice collection here. The 1/64 version is an A/FX slot car body I repaired and fitted with Indycals graphics. The 1/43 is a Solido diecast. The mirror is in the case somewhere.

1/24 resin of the Porsche 917 PA spyder that was driven by Jo Siffert in the 1969 Can Am season. Car was light a fast and very reliable and allowed Siffert several good finishes. He finished 4th in the season. Unfortunatly , compared to the big Chevies it was underpowered. Kit was made by fellow modeler Alan Jameswho has sincew passed on. I believe this was the only kit he produced. Alan was a true craftsman and this kit was outstanding down to the last details. Color is Tamiya TS26. I did add some extra details and information on those are in the picture captions. Thanks for looking and comments welcome. The body on this kit was exceptional. Very little clean up. A coat of primer (that I shined up) and a few coats of Tamiya. The hood fasteners were some extra PE I had. Rear end and engine detail was all there. And everything fit. Body and chassis fit like a glove. I did have to thread two screws to hold them together. Decided to pin the roll bar brace in place instead of glue. That proved to be the right decision as it had to be moved around a little to get in place. Don't often do this overhead shot but there is a lot of detail to be seen. Seatbelts were PE items for a Studio 27 set made for the 917. Whose idea was it to put two plugs per cylinder on a 12 cyl engine. 24 plug wires, 48 holes and almost 3ft of wire. This shot proves it was worth it.

Hi fellows, I just put up a shapeways shop with the stuff I designed. All are 1:25 parts, mostly wheels, wheel covers and hubcaps. I will slowly expand the line. Thanks for watching. Remove my post if not appropriate. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/basement-resin

Hi, I have several Honda Civic touring cars I would like to build and detail. They are all curbside kits though. More specifically I need the EG Civic, 5th generation, 1991-1995 version. I know of several places that sell the engines for these kits, but I can't find anyone that makes a whole engine bay kit. Do any of you know of someone that makes this?

This kit went rather quicker than expected. Although I did clean up parts, make the wheels steer and prime some time ago. From paint top finish it was 3 days. An excellent kit and very well engineered. Paint is Tamiya TS-16 (80%) TS-55 (20%) for the blue. Yellow was Tamiya TS-16 (90%) TS-46 (10%) The yellow had to be mixed several times to match the decals. Only the side decals were used and the rest of the graphics decanted and airbrushed. The thin red accent line is red vinyl tape cut down thin. This proved to be a lot easier than the decals especially over the front fender vents. More comments in the picture captions. Thanks for looking. Making the wheels steer required a little body modification. Goodyear decals out of the stash. Each piece of the red tape had to be cut twice over the fender vents. I have a special tool to do this...now. I made the mistake of attaching the wing then spraying the yellow. It was a little tricky masking when it came to the blue. The thin part of the rear spoiler had to be pinned in place as no glue would hold it. Its adjustable. The bottom of the chassis is real aluminium polished to a medium shine. Its sticky back aluminium used in the label making industry. We have a plant here in town and one of my modeling friends used to work there. Here is the model with its 1/18 older brother. Diecast is by Minichamps and is quite rare now. The colors matched up pretty good considering this is the first time they are seen together. Engine detail of the Minichamps is pretty well detailed for a diecast.

Olson Bros website - NEW Bronco/Truck parts Guys, get them now and avoid a long wait. Plan on a few weeks delivery time anyway, possibly a little longer depending on how many orders come in. I have to hand it to 'lil bro, he really went all-out on these and here are just a few pics of what's available now. -EXPECT SHIPPING DELAYS!- Also, if you have communication issues, shoot me a note and I'll see what's up.

Another MCW body I got back in December, I am combining this with the AMT 62 Bel Air frame and the six cylinder from the AMT 60 Chevy pickup.

I got this body from MCW resins and decided to combine it with a Revell 1966 Frame. The parts line up really well. Still working on tires/wheels.

As per request by my good friend Gary (gramps46) Here are all the Fisher resin kits I have completed in the last 15 years. These kits are what got me started on resin kits. I had always been intimidated by resin. Seen plenty of them done but didn't think I had the skill myself. Once I did my first one there was no stopping me. Fisher kits appealed to me because of the subject matter and the price...at the time $85. I have since gone ouit of my way to aquire all the ones I like. Still in the works: Chaparral 2E, Matra MS670, Porshe 917-30, 1971 Gulg Porsche Langneck, 1958 Porsche RSK, Cunningham C4R. Below is my collection in chronological order. Comments welcome. My first resin kit completion. Chaparral 2F cone 4/28/07. Color Tamiya TS7 racing white. This build has won several awards, This one really appealed to me because of the shape of the car. I still consider it one of the most beautiful Can-Am cars ever. Car is a Ferrari 312P and the color is Tamiya TS49. Completed 9/3/08 I have been up close and personal with the real car so having a model of it was a necessity. The Sunoco Ferrari of Mark Donohue in 1971. Color was Testors 1111 blue. Lots of photo etch and detail. What really got me about this kit was the aluminum tub had the wrinkles molded in. Don't usually see this kind of detail in resin. Finished 4/28l10 The other half of my Ferrari 312P set. The berlinetta. Also done is Tamiya TS49. I left the nose winglets off because I though it ruined the lines of the car. Finished 6/25/19. Bougth this kit off Ebay from a German seller who was going to convert it to a slot car body but gave up. This kit went from Calif to Long Island NY to Germany and then back to Penna. It has a lot of miles on it. Color is Mr Color 109 Character yellow. This kit fairly flew together and turned well too. Completed 7/3/19 Probably the last car kit Fisher released. 1966/67 Ferrari 365 P2. This car was campained by NART and was nicknamed the white elephant. Not the prettiest Ferrari ever but still worthy of the collection. Color is Tamiya TS26 White with Testors 1111 blue accents. Lots of PE and other details added. Completed 8/7/19 Another Ferrari 512, rthis one a M. Color is Mr color #327, a slightly darker red but period correct. Lots of great detail on this one. Done 8/27/19 I was vbery excited to aquire this since I am a big Donohue fan. Came at a good price and had to build it right away, Very similar to the other Mclaren but this one didn't go as easy as that one. Decals were my biggest complaint. Color is a custom mix of Tamiya TS15 and TS55. Many extras were added. Done 6/27/21. Ooops got this one out of order. It was done 9/2/19. Another Ferrari 512 this one an S version. This car was raced by a Belgian team and hence the yellow color. Didja know that yellow is actually Ferrari's racing color. That is why the background of the logo is yellow. This color was custom mixed from several Tamiya yellows. It was my best guess. Last Fisher resin completed and this one was 8/8/21. It was featured on this forum at that time. D-Type Jaguar painted Tamiya TS43 BRG. Long as I have them all out of the case might as well take a picture of the whole tribe. You might notice on all the pictures the wheels steer on my Fisher kits. Since he uses the same basic layout for his wheels and tires it was a fairly easy conversion. And once you do one, the rest are easy. Hope you liked this tribute to Paul Fisher. These are great kits of great cars. This hobby will miss him.

I recently completed my first all resin body project. I found the body, bumpers and grille on EBay from A&J Resin of a 1981 Chevy Malibu. This project was special because I had been wanting to recreate my uncles car in scale since the mid 1990’s. Kits used: AMT 86 El Camino AMT 69 Olds 442 Revell 83 Olds Hurst 1981 Chevy El Camino (promo) Aftermarket: Scenes Unlimited wheels Morgan Automotive Detail distributor Lex’s Resin Cowl hood Model Car Parts dash gauges Overal the project took a little over a year to complete…but doggone sure worth it. IMG_0486.MOV

Hello fellow automotive modelers! A few years ago I bought resin hoods from Lex and they were atrocious. However, I recently purchased another set of hoods and this video below is a review and shows how fitment it out of the box.

Hi guys, I just finished a new build a few days ago. It’s a ´36 Ford Humpback Sedan: Based on Amt´s Dick Tracy kit with a Mill City Replicas resin body and some parts box items I chopped the top a few scale inches, lowered the suspension and added set of Torque Thrusts from Revell´s ´32 Ford coupe Under the hood sits a SBC from Monogram´s Deuce roadster This was my third approach to amt´s ´36 Ford kits. It may not be the best kit but it’s a nice canvas for many different styles: Thanks for looking and as always: comments are welcome

Is Altered States still in business? Their website is down

I installed two mounting posts and fitted the body to this kit sometime ago but for some unknown reason put it away. Since I am in a "finishing projects mpode" thought it was time to do it. Resin kits are often just the basics and you have to use youir imagination and research to breing them to life. This was no exception. Paint on this is Tamiya TS-34 British racing green. Car represents a fresh from the factory look. A big thank you has to go to Gary McNutt (Gramps46) who generously supplied the kit and also to Norm Veber of Replicas and Minatures of Maryland for the excellent wheels and tires. Rest of the details in captions under the pictures. Thanks for looking. Finished kit on its wheels. Went to great lenghts to get the wheels to steer. Knock offs are actually threaded on. Many oif the panel lines ahd to be deepened as the primer and paint would have covered them. Mirror is from the spares. This car had many mirror combinations. I added a few photo etch details from the spares drawer, Windscreen fit nicely but tended to spring away on the right side. There is a very tiny bent pin holding it in place at the top. Interior recieved some extra attention in the form of a new steering wheel, handmade shift knob, dash decals from spares. Note the v-e-r-y tiny PE fasteners on the outside of the screen.

I have been wanting to do this kit ever since I got it. I was fortunate enough to see Mark Donohue win with this car at a USRRC race at Watkins Glen in 1967. He won pole to flag. Kit was sprayed with a mix of Tamiya TS15 and TS55. Both were decanted and airbrushed. Tamiya clear was used. There were a number of features I added and modifications made. These are explained in the captions below the pictures. Thanks for looking and comments are most welcome. Of course non steering wheels on models is a pet peeve of mine. This was a fairly easy conversion. Keeping the wheelbase and wheel height the same was a priority. Finished car. Kits instructions warned the decals were quite thin. I heeded that waring and they went on with out a hitch. Glad there was an extra set though. Rivet detail was kinda sparse so I drilled them all out and added copper wire which was then ground down with a Dremel to make new rivets. It was a lot of work but worth it in the end Business end of the car took some fiddling to get everything to fit. That is expected of a resin kit. Overall quality of the kit was very good though. I like Fisher kits. He will be missed . The stance of the car was correct right out of the box. Tire decals came out of the spares. The interior recieved most of my attention. New steering wheel, scratch built shifter and water pipes (not visible) dash decals and seatbelts from silk thread. And a few extra switches. Kit suppllied phot etch interior was a nice plus to this kit.

Y'all thought I posted in the wrong section? 😆 Planet Models 1:48 of the one-off racer airplane Bugatti 100P, I found at the IPMS Nationals in CO. I haven't done a thing for a couple months, wanted to call today a vacation, and build something quick. It's a brick, the two engines would have been fun. No seams or gaps like the typical airplane model. No decals, so I might finish it. But then again, I just can't build box stock anymore. Flickr: Stu Carr Not many parts. The vacuum-formed canopy is duplicated, so that was nice of them. The instructions have only blue and black for color references, but the box art is color, so I needed to figure out the interior which appears red, wheel wells must be light blue. Spent some time looking for bubble holes, there are many. The landing gear is white metal; I have filed, sanded, steel wool and Dremel wire brushed one here. The exhausts needed to be fixed, going to use steel tubing. Spotted a detail that was overlooked. How anyone can miss this, is beyond me. The box art has it, pictures I found of the plane at the Oshkosh museum shows it. Made from aluminum newspaper printing plate. Also added the tailwheel. Fun to do a model that can be painted the same day. Tamiya primer to start. Gloss black, then Alclad polished aluminum. Now I'm irked. I used a magnifying glass to look over the body, still missed an area. Then the propellers shouted about bubbles, on both sides. 🤬 Enough whining, it's typical of resin.

I sold off some more of Tom Piagari's unfinished projects last weekend at the LMMCC meeting for his widow (thanks to all those who bought them! ). One that hasn't sold yet was this resin '53 Ford wagon: Under the hood are the words "Copyright Property of TJH Model". Does anyone have some history on this kit, like when it was made, who mastered it, etc.? It's a solid kit (no windows or interior; plate chassis) but the quality is really really nice; almost as if Modelhaus made a Banthrico! It doesn't look like the Lindberg '53 Ford kit was used for the master (the grille is different). Other chrome is in the packet - dog dish hubcaps, taillights and hood ornament. The wheels seem to be injection molded (one is missing - the kit's only flaw) and I think the tires could be kit-sourced (Goodyear Super Cushions with sprayed-on whitewalls)? Note the wood areas are separate parts and there are neatly printed peel and stick appliques for the dark panels. So if anyone can fill me in on more history (did Clarence/TJH make any other kits?) and especially if one of you could turn up another wheel, I'd greatly appreciate it. I was asking $70 obo for it at the meet; does that sound like a fair price?

This paint was put into an aerosol can many years ago for me by an auto paint supplier. I sprayed this dash weeks ago, and it has been sitting in the dehydrator since. There is a raised portion of the dash that I filed down...and on that spot, the paint is still liquid. How long after casting does resin need to cure before painting? I must have painted this just after the filing that exposed fresher resin?

Part of a four car set I built commemorating the Alberta cars we toured with in Division six in the 70's

Hi, back after a few years! I have a few hundred diecasts - original issue Corgi, Dinky, Matchbox - and a promo car collection which was my dad's - and although they were stored in enclosed glass display cases, many suffered from oxidation. My mom passed away recently and I'll be needing to move the collection to my own house. I'm looking to ultimately keep and continue displaying some of these, photo-catalogue each piece and probably sell a number of them. I'm trying to decide A) how to clean them, to the extent they can be restored, and then how to best research for accurate pricing. This project sadly has been neglected as I didn't have the necessary time to devote to this due to life in general... but now I am basically semi-retired and looking to focus on working on this. Because of imperfect humidity environment, many of the Jo-Han cars in the 1/25, 1/24 collection have oxidation residue. I've got a sampling of some of the worst in the attached photos; tho they aren't extreme close-up. If there's any sort of best practices or protocol for dealing with this embedded dust, I'd really appreciate any advice...as well as suggestions on how to move forward on appraisal of this collection. I started macro-photographing most of the smaller scale diecasts and now am looking to finish those and shoot the larger scales, as I figure that's probably the first step to getting the entire lot of the collection properly evaluated. I know there's many different ways to go as far as appraisal and selling. My brother has a friend who is an online auctioneer who has regular vintage toys/cars among all the other categories of collectibles...but I'm more interested in connecting with people who specialize specifically in diecasts and promo cars. Would be glad to get any recommendations as far as that goes, as well. Thanks for your time reading through all of this! : ) Mike in Detroit

I Z’d the frame in the rear and removed two leafs from the front to bring the whole car down a bit. I’m liking the stance!

Ok Guys, It's been over 12 months on the bench but I'm calling this one pretty much done....just needs a rear screen and number plate (maybe a driver too) and a bit of detail paint for door handles, window trim and wipers. See WIP section for build details. Essentially started with a resin body and an early AMT Stock Car kit. Could not believe how well the two fitted together.....almost perfect match!!! Scratchbuilt rollcage, switch panel, handbrake, shifter mount, and MSD ignition box behind seat. Exterior details include aluminium tube exhausts, printed paper wilwood calipers and disc brakes, fujimi wheels and tires, and a plastic sheet fuel cell underneath with chart tape straps. Enjoy!! And as always your comments and feedback most welcome. Cheers....Geoff

Part of a four car set of BB/FCs that ran in the Pacific NW in the 70s