Alternative to BMF/ Imitation Silver Leaf

[jwrass]

Are you are frustrated with BMF and looking for a alternative method to do your shinny bits? You may want to try this technique.

With Imitation Silver Leaf you can vary the sheen with different burnishing techniques as I will cover as we proceed.

Leafing or Guilding is the age old art of applying a very thin film or real 23 Carot Gold or Silver Leaf

Leaf in it's purest form is real Gold or Silver that has been hand pounded into what is termed leaves

For this Tutorial we will be using a Man Made Synthetic or Imitation Leaf

The medium that holds the leaf to the subject is called size, Think of size as a glue. 

On the left and middle are oil based size, to the right is water based size. For this project we will be using oil based size.

 

 

Size can be sprayed or brushed, for this project we will use a brush. A soft natural bristle or synthetic brush such as a golden taklon should be used for the application of the size. The brush pictured is a golden taklon.

Leaf comes in booklets or rolls in various sizes, pictured here are 3"x3" leafs, each individual leaf is separated by a thin tissue to keep them from sticking to each other,

the leaf itself is very thin and cannot be handled by hand. It is applied with a guilders tip....... More on that when we apply the leaf

In it's raw form oil size is the color of honey and difficult to see when applying to the surface. Above is fully loaded brush with oil size. To make the size easier to see when applying we will tint the size with a bit of lemon yellow.

 

 

 

For larger projects I mix a batch of size and tint it to my liking, on a small project I just put a drop of lemon yellow off to the side and work

the color into the brush through the paletting procedure.

To be continued !!!!! The best is yet to come..................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 21, 2016 by jwrass

[Tesla]

Looking forward to this tutorial.

[hedotwo]

Here's something to follow.....

Thanks!

[Jantrix]

Very interesting.

[bobthehobbyguy]

Neat idea. Great start for this tutorial.  Will be following.

[jwrass]

BMF Update #1)

In the last  installment we left off here............. lets continue and get the brush wet!

Along with the size and the lemon yellow we will need a small container of fresh Mineral Spirts (I use a shallow tuna can) fill the can

say 1/4 with spirits. Before we load the brush wash it in mineral spirts, wipe the brush clean and dip it back into the mineral spirts and wipe

the excess spirits off, we want the brush to be just damp with spirts. My palette is a aluminum sign blank, however a shinny paged magazine

works just as well. Because we won't need much size for the leaf I'm just going to mix it on the palette.

With a popsicle stick I stir the size (never shake it as it induces bubbles) I make a puddle of size on the palette about as large as a Quarter and just

a drop of lemon yellow on the side to tint the size

The key to great paint work with a brush no matter what the subject matter is loading or charging the brush properly. We will be loading our brush

with the paletting procedure. Dip the brush in the size and work the paint into the bristles on the surface of the palette in and back an forth motion

like that of a pendulum, when the brush is close to having a full charge dip just the tip in the lemon yellow and work that into the size to get a

semi transparent look like in the photo above. the yellow is used merely as a tint so we can see where we are laying the size down.

A properly loaded brush should look like the one in the photo, notice how the size is fully loaded all the way to the Ferrell.

 

Size comes in three drying ranges Fast, Medium and Slow. For this tutorial we will be using a fast size.

When you are ready to commit to applying the size, on the palette or a piece of scrap styrene paint a square of size say 1"x1" in a

uniform fashion and record the time. This is Critical!! now proceed to applying the size where you want your shinny bits.

Apply the size to the areas that you want the leaf. I am doing this freehand.... Notice how nice the brush is tracking, that is the direct result

of a properly loaded brush..... Now I know not many are going to be able to do this freehand.

I have been making part of my living custom painting on 1:1 for some forty years. Do not fear.. mask the areas adjacent to the areas you want

to have leaf applied to with a plastic fine line tape and burnish the edges down tight. Now brush the size on in those areas, However do not

flood those area with size, make like the tape is not there and carefully brush the size on paying close attention to not getting a build up of

size at the tape edge. As soon as you have the size brushed down immediately remove the tape, the size will be wet enough that any small

edge that my have occurred will melt back into the size for a razor straight line.

 

Now lets prepare some leaf for application 

This is a bit tricky.... you need patience and a gentle hand! I normally have a dedicated cutting matt however the file folder will work just fine. I peal one of the leafs back from the booklet and start to carefully cut strips of leaf for application

It is imperative that you use new blades when you cut this material as it is oh so thin!!!! Notice how I have a firm but gentle grip on the booklet and leaf that I am cutting. If I were to take my fingers off of this and sneeze I would have pieces

of leaf floating every where it truly is that thin.

Here is one strip that is ready to be applied to the size. Notice how delicate it looks, at this stage this material is very fragile. You are probably thinking well that looks all full of wrinkles and you are right! However when this is applied  to

the size and burnished it will look like a freshly ironed shirt.

TO BE CONTINUED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Next up..... GETTING LAID...... Ahhhh I mean laying the leaf!

 

Peace Jimmy "RASS"

.

 

 

Edited January 22, 2016 by jwrass

[Miatatom]

I'm following with interest, Jim. I've tried using home made BMF with mixed results. The foil I used was chrome wrapping paper from Party City. Enough to last a life time for $5. It worked fairly well but the only thing I wasn't happy about was the adhesive I used. Here's what I used:

http://www.hobbylobby.com/p/6272

It had a little too much sticky to it. Maybe I used too much but it was tough to get it off the areas adjacent to the chrome. Pulled some paint loose in one area.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Hmmmm....Very interesting.  How well does it conform to compound curves?

[jwrass]

Thanks Tom, I think you will find the rest of the process very interesting

[jwrass]

Hmmmm....Very interesting.  How well does it conform to compound curves?

Bill, If you look close at the trim, I picked a body who's trim had Concave, Convex and Compound Curves, the body is a 1959 El Camino.

The leaf sucks up so nice and pretty. A practice in having static working for me not against me!

You are going to like this..............

[Mooneyzs]

Jimmy .... this is one heck of a tutorial I will be following along. Thank you for sharing your awesome skills with us.

[jwrass]

BMF/Leaf Update # 2)                            .....................  Laying The Leaf......................

In the last installment I stated that before you lay down the size for your shinny bits you have to paint a patch of size off to the side

This step is very CRTICAL as this will make or break how the leaf lays down! I also stated that you need to record the time at which

you laid that patch of size down. This patch and time will be the measure of when you lay the leaf down!

Much like BMF, leafing is a skill that will have to be practiced to achieve success. it's not magic! However IMO the results give you

more options and flexibility as compared to BMF as you will see as we progress.

In my initial post I failed to mention the Body I selected  for this tutorial it is a 1959 El Camino. The reason I chose this body is if you look at the trim it has concave, convex and compound curves, Also the windscreen post has a very

complex curvature. 

NOTE: I will return to continue, I got a important phone call I had to take Sorry

 

 

 

Edited May 6, 2016 by jwrass
Continue Content

[jwrass]

That was a long phone call................Right!

My last post was in January..... I apologize for the delay..... I have been having some Medical issues.....Hence the delay!

Let's get back to laying some leaf. The size has been applied to the areas you want to leaf and a swatch of size has been brushed out and the time recorded. Recording the time and the swatch of size is so very important...........This will make or break how the leaf lays on the surface.

For modeling I would recommend a fast size........This size starts to tack up in about 30-45 minuets.

...........................................The Knuckle Test..................................

To apply the leaf the size has to be just right...On the swatch area lightly touch the size with one of your Knuckles (I use my index finger) when you touch it the size it should have a slight tack and not leave a impression (a delicate touch here) drag your knuckle across the swatch and it should have a slight tack and have a low squeak sound...............The size is now ready for the leaf.

To apply the leaf you will need one of these..... A Gilders Tip. This tool will transfer the leaf to the areas that are sized

 

 

Edited May 6, 2016 by jwrass
Continue Content

[jwrass]

To get the leaf to stick to the Gilders Tip the tip needs to be charged with static Electricity, to perform this procedure you simply rub the ends of the Gilders tip though your hair in a rapid back and forth motion to create the charge like this...

As you can see by the picture I am not using a Gilders tip.... It's a cheapo nylon brush..... it will work in a pinch however the Gilders Tip is much more effective.

(I'm running out of area's to create a charge) Now that the Gliding tip is charged it's time to pick up some leaf and lay it down.

In a swooping motion touch the edge of one of the strips that have been previously cut and pick up the leaf.... it should hang from the end of the tip as in the photo

Note: This is a very delicate procedure.... slow and deliberate movements and a calm environment is a must.

Approach the sized areas and simply lay the leaf into the size....the leaf will actually somewhat be sucked into the size.

Continue to lay the leaf on the sized areas...After the leafs are applied gently push the leaf into the sized area's with a cotton ball.

Next up: Burnishing The Leaf

P.S. It won't be four months

 

Edited May 6, 2016 by jwrass

[jwrass]

Alternative to BMF/ Imitation Silver Leaf........FINAL!

This is how the Leaf should look once it has been laid into the size. The leaf is now ready to be pushed into the size and burnished

 

These are the tools I use to push the leaf into the size.

Pushing the leaf into the size....  A very light touch is critical in this step as not to damage the leaf..... Just gently push the leaf into the areas that were sized, the leaf will lay down and adhere just fine. Notice how nicely the leaf is conforming to the concave and convex forms.

 

Allow the leaf to set for at least a half hour before you start to burnish the excess leaf away. The burnishing process is defined as removing the excess leaf from the areas that are not sized. In this photo I am gently rubbing back and forth and up and down to remove the excess leaf.

 

This photo is on the trim where the windshield would sit. This is before the leaf has been thoroughly pushed into the size and burnished, even at this stage the leaf is conforming nicely to the series of compound curves.

Excess Leaf removed and burnished to a semi dull finish. The leaf can be polished to a higher sheen with a cotton ball or dulled down with a piece of velvet.

In summary: The process does take some practice and experimentation to perfect, when done properly the results can be seamless with many variations of texture.

This project was done with imitation leaf that can be purchased at most arts and craft stores, it is thicker than real silver leaf and IMO looks and conforms much better than BMF.

If you want really superior looks you can give real Silver Leaf a try! The real Silver lays down smoother as it is thinner than the imitation, the process of laying the real silver is the same.

Imitation leaf is about $7 dollars for 25 leaves and genuine Silver is $25 dollars for 25 leaves. Real Silver can also be purchased in 22 yard rolls in 1/2 and 3/4 inch widths and cost $15 and $19 dollars respectively.

In my 1:1 work I rarely use imitation leafs be it Silver or Gold, however for modeling I think the imitation works just fine.

It is my hope that some of the talent on this site will give this a try. I hope you found this informative.... Any questions give me a shout!

Necessary safety equipment and a life line.......Peace Jimmy "RASS"

 

 

 

Edited July 24, 2016 by jwrass

[Harry P.]

Ok...here's the question everyone wants to ask but is probably afraid to...

Why use a complicated, multi-step, hard to learn technique like this, where you need special talents and tools, need to be able to paint the size in perfectly straight lines, and need to be able to handle the very delicate sheets of leaf which only come in small 3x3 sheets (so you can't do the side trim on a 1/25 scale model in one piece)... instead of just using good old BMF, which requires no special tools or talent, and which anybody can learn to do in about five minutes, with results as good as, or better, than your technique?

It's like you're building a deck and you're one 2x4 short.

You could go to the nursery and buy a sapling, take it home and plant it in your yard, keep it watered, wait about 20 years for it to grow into a mature tree, then hire some landscapers to cut down the tree and cut the trunk into an 8 foot section, then take that piece of the trunk to a local sawmill and have them cut you a 2x4 out of it, then put the 2x4 into a kiln and wait a few weeks until the water content is down to 15%, and presto! There's your 2x4.

Or you could go to Home Depot and buy one.

[eastown]

Absolutely  correct  Harry.

[jwrass]

Harry, Well Well......I'm confused as to why anyone would be afraid to ask.... As the title states it's a Alternative! The pictures really don't do the final outcome the justice it deserves, I took them during a power outage from storms that had gone through our area the lighting was poor and a flash wasn't cutting it. I will take more photos at the end of the week and post as I am currently waiting for my flight out for a business trip. These photos will more clearly show how nice the application is. Even though the sheets are actually 5.5 x 5.5 the transition from were one stops and starts is seamless. I and many others really find the quality of BMF gets worse with each day. If you make a mistake or don't like the results of this type of application it can easily be wiped off with turpentine or mineral spirts before it thoroughly dry's with no damage to the paint (the exception would be enamel) so it's very forgiving. No Purple Pond! I clearly state that any areas can be masked with fine line tape, you don't have to have special skills to get straight lines. I also state that the materials can be purchased in rolls so you could do the side of a model 22 yards long..... I don't know what scale that would be. Different strokes for different folks, Just trying to contribute a technique to those who may be open minded to attempt this technique. You may have lost your calling...... You are a funny man! Peace, Jimmy "RASS"

[Harry P.]

I wasn't trying to say your technique isn't a good one... just saying that there is a much simpler way... BMF!

Glad to know yo think I'm funny and not trying to dis you, because that wasn't my intent.

[peteski]

I was one who was afraid to ask. I guess Jimmy prefer to spend a huge chunk of their modeling time to foil their model's trim. But if he is enjoying doing that then that's all that really counts.  I prefer the much quicker BMF method.  I also never sand, rub down, or polish the car bodies after I paint them. That to me is way too tedious.

Jimmy, I'm not sure if you know that if there is any adhesive left over from BMF, you can also easily remove it with Naphtha or the same stuff which works on your foil.  I have never heard of anybody stripping their model in purple pond because of a mistake during foil application.  You have an interesting foiling technique (which obviously works), but not something I will ever try. Even if there was no more BMF being made, I would rather put some Microscale foil metal adhesive on plain aluminum foil and apply it like like BMF.

[redneckrigger]

Yes, BMF works well, but I can totally understand the leaf alternative. Jimmy has given us a tremendous tutorial, and I for one will give it a try at least once. BMF has in my humble opinion, gotten worse in quality over the last several years. I used to paint cars and trucks in the 1:1 world. One thing we did a lot of was fire trucks and commercial trucks. The smaller departments and owners on a budget, would have us do vinyl striping and lettering, which looked OK, but it was DEFINITELY overshadowed by the traditional hand lettering and gold leaf striping and highlights that those with a bigger budget would have us do. We had a sign painter who excelled in both vinyl and traditional methods do our work for us. Sadly, he was murdered by his stepson, (hired by his wife!!), a couple years after we closed. I am SO glad I had hand striping and lettering done by him on my motorcycle before his untimely departure. There is, again, in my humble opinion, no comparison at all. I hope to see some better photos after burnishing from Jimmy. And I do expect that the leaf method will far outlast the BMF method over the long haul, both as a model simply ages, or when it is handled repeatedly. I am gonna give it a try!

[Longbox55]

Great tutorial, Jimmy!

[Skip]

To all the naysayers, laying leaf is actually a whole lot easier than it looks.  The same techniques Jimmy shows you here can help with some of the raggedy edges often seen on BMF where the user fails to burnish it down enough.  In my opinion the leaf can do a far superior job of replicating chrome trim, it's thinner more pliable and can be worked into surfaces that would give BMF fits!  The leaf is the closest to the original BMF that I've ever seen or used.  (Then again, just like Jimmy, I've been gilding sign and striping work for a while, so I see and understand what and how Jimmy is trying to pass along a very useable technique.)  I guess the bottom line is if your too impatient to learn to use a new tool, stick with BMF and don't tell some who wants to try a new technique that it's too hard, won't work, the wrong material for the job or the wrong tool!

BTW, this is the same exact technique we use to gold leaf signs, as in, let's see, fire trucks, lettering on the side of a Gasser, Dragster, Funny Car, Show Car...  So with what little information Jimmy just shared and with a little imagination you can do the real thing instead of a decal that looks just like a decal of shimmering leaf!

The other thing here many don't understand about signwritting is that many of these techniques we know and use were either hard learned through trial and error.  That's  because the old guys we learned from were closed mouthed about many of their tricks.  They would tell you part of the way to do something and you had to figure out the rest by applying what you already knew.  So, in my opinion just showing you all the steps Jimmy has given you a huge gift, so don't gripe about it until you try it out!

Edited August 5, 2016 by Skip
spelling edit

[peteski]

Well Skip, you and Jimmy are true artists - most of the modelers are just ham-fisted butchers who love to take shortcuts.  

After years of working with the leaf stuff you guys have the technique mastered. For me, as the ham-fisted modeler, the BMF stuff works just fine. But there's nothing wrong with someone doing their model chrome using silver leaf technique.   I build models to have fun. I don't enjoy polishing the paint jobs, so I don't.   Looking at Jimmy's tutorial I can see that I wouldn't enjoy spending the time on doing silver-leaf, so I won't.  Yes, I can tell even without trying it myself - Jimmy's excellent photo-tutorial already told me what I needed to know for making my decision. But if that is something you or Jimmy enjoy doing - all the power to you.

I don't think that any posts on this thread were putting the silver-leaf-techinque down. At least know that I wasn't - I was simply saying that is is not for me.

[mod3l Lover]

    And I was hoping they would make BMF

a little thicker!!  So sorry, this looks real

easy to snag, tear, peel, burn through, etc.

  But a well put together tutorial for sure!!

 

        David S.