what paint do you use

[bubbaman]

would like to know  if  we all use enamel - i`m new  at this  and i remember using  testor`s enamel boo koo years ago - just trying  to learn a few tricks  - THANKS

[Harry Joy]

I rarely use enamel. I have some Floquil Old Silver that brushes beautifully, so it's about the only one I have touched in ages. I use Tamiya acrylics, acrylic lacquers, Duplicolor lacquers, and on occasion, some true acrylics by Vallejo or Model Master.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Lacquer for me, all the way. It's just so easy and forgiving to use, I can't personally see the point of messing around trying to reinvent the wheel with anything else.

I occasionally use Testors spray-can enamels, as they can make a really nice glossy finish on smaller parts, but they take a long time to dry and can be difficult to use on larger parts like bodies for a wide variety of reasons. 

There is a popular method, originated by Donn Yost, that involves using enamels reduced with lacquer thinner, air-brushed. He produces consistently outstanding results, so it's definitely worth looking in to.

Edited April 14, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[StevenGuthmiller]

I think if you did a poll, you'd find that the majority of builders use lacquers today.

I could be wrong about that, but it seems that way to me.

 

Steve

[slusher]

I use Testors lacquer clear over some enamels. I really like Tamiya lacquers and i also use Krylon and Rustoleum enamel in gloss and satin. Rustoleum satin really dry quickly..

[Snake45]

My favorite paint is Testor Model Master enamel, airbrushed.

I'm also pretty fond of the Testor rattlecan lacquers, too.

I'll use pretty much anything that works, and that I can actually get here in smalltown Dickburg.

[Longbox55]

I use pretty much everything. Lacquers (both hobby and 1:1 car paint), hobby enamels (Testors and Humbrol), water based acrylics (mostly Tamiya, also Citadel), spray enamels, modified urethane enamels, fingernail polish, it just really depends on what color is available in what kind of paint and what I'm willing to deal with to use it. That said, for bodies I mostly use lacquers these days. Good color selection, fast dry time, easy to work with, and if you need to topcoat it, you can put just about anything over the top it. I work with both spray cans and airbrush.

[Harry Joy]

Off topic - I have traveled and lived a fair bit in central NC, but I could not place Pinebluff. Google shows your population as "1337". My younger internet friends ten years ago would have loved that.

[bubbaman]

we are near ABERDEEN just a little south of it  -  yea  pretty much a  quiet town  - just wish it had a good  hobby shop  - HOBBY LOBBY is all we got

[espo]

As you can see there are many different paint options. For myself I have two very big reasons I no longer use Testors Enamels. #1 its the bloody spray nozzles and #2 I sure you have heard the expression of "watching paint dry" tells you all you need to know about the drying time. If you have the time the product its self is good.

[gtx6970]

I use what ever / wherever i can get the color i want

[Snake45]

As you can see there are many different paint options. For myself I have two very big reasons I no longer use Testors Enamels. #1 its the bloody spray nozzles and #2 I sure you have heard the expression of "watching paint dry" tells you all you need to know about the drying time. If you have the time the product its self is good.

That's true of the rattlecans. I don't have those problems airbrushing from the 1/2 oz bottles.

[espo]

That's true of the rattlecans. I don't have those problems airbrushing from the 1/2 oz bottles.

I'm sure you are correct about using their 1/2 oz bottles. I have not tried that since I tend to use other companies paints now. My frustration with the spray cans was pretty much as I stated. The few times that everything went as it should the final finish was acceptable at best. 

[astroracer]

 I graduated to laquers many years ago. Other then needing a primer resistant to the hot thinners it is much easier and MUCH faster then enamels. Especially when shot thru an airbrush. I did this paint job on the Pro Street Buick in a day. Other then primer, shooting the base color, strips and clear top coat. You can't do that with enamel.

The other thing about laquer is 99% of the nail polish out there is laquer based. Nail polish comes in so many wild colors it is crazy. Getting it at the dollar Store or Big lots will set you back 5 or 6 bucks for enough "paint" to do a couple of cars. It mixes and sprays just like laquer.

Mark

[redneckrigger]

I use nothing but acrylic enamels, regular automotive grade materials. I reduce them with the according reducers. Not that I don't like lacquers, but after 40+ years of painting in the 1:1 world, and not having used basecoat/clearcoat systems on my scale builds, I stick to what I know. I usually use either PPG or Dupont materials, and get great results. They do have their limitations, but they work fine for me.

[unclescott58]

Lacquer. Mainly Tamiya. In spay cans. I avoid enamel in almost all cases.

Edited May 11, 2016 by unclescott58

[Pavel A.]

For me best are normal car paint from car paintshop. Guys thinned in 1:1 ratio with thinner. It is prepared for 0,3 mm nozzle or more. I can say spray it in thin layers. This colors are known as "the base". Surface must be satin, no gloss!!! Than I apply decals and cover by 2k clearcoat. From modellers paints are best of the best Mr.Color C (lacquer type) thinned by lacquer thinner with blue label ( yellow label is also good, it is contains retarder and it cans overlive paint under). Ratio is between 3-4 (thinner): 1 (color). I sugest mr.color with letters GX. These "GX"s are especially for car modellers. Very glossy and what is important very quick dry. For example gloss black (you can use it as a base under chrome) is dried in 20 minutes! 

[Mike_G]

Lacquer. Mainly Tamiya. In spay cans. I avoid enamel in almost all cases.

+1, except I use Testors flat black enamel for the undersides of hoods, engine compartments, and wheelwells because any overspray can be easily removed with a swab and mineral spirits without affecting the lacquer body paint

[Pete J.]

Yes, I use paint.

Well, actually, I use a lot of different paints.  Here is my list and why.

Lacquers:  Tamiya Rattle Can, Testors Rattle can, DuPont Automotive(Lucite), House of Color -  Lacquer is great for most things.  It is quick drying, polishes out well and you can get a lot of different colors that match the real deal for cars and automotive paint.  Down side- getting harder to find especially in "eco-friendly" states like California.  Some forms will attack decals and plastic with a vengeance.

Enamels- Tamiya and Floquil.  These are solvent based enamels.  The Tamiya stuff is not available here but you can still find it from Japan.  Great for brushing small parts.  The Floquils were formulated for railroad use and are for the most part flats, but they have a lot of different shades of blacks and grays.  Super for shading under the hood and other parts were one shade of black isn't enough.  I also think that the Tamiya Black semi-gloss is one of the most accurate for under the hood.  Just the right amount of gloss.

Metalizers:  I didn't include these under lacquers although they are for the most part lacquers(exception is the black under coat for Alcad.  It is an enamel)  Testors, Alclad and Alsa-  These are all metalizers in different shades.  Again, in detailing, one shade of metal just doesn't look right.  In an engine bay there are literally a ton of different metal finishes. 

Acrylics-  Vallejo and Tamiya- again different paints for different uses.  These are for the most part water/alcohol based paints.  You need different levels of gloss and using these works well for that.  Also great for figures.  You can thin the Tamiya acrylics with their lacquer thinners for a quicker dry time and harder finish, but you can only do it once on the top coat. 

Why, the different paints.  Well in addition to what each does well, you can layer them based on the strength of the thinners.  Lacquers on the bottom will not be effected by Acrylic thinners over the top and so on.  This is great for weathering and shading.  Also solvent based paints generally go through an airbrush better than water/alcohol based paints.   

[Mike C]

I mostly use Testors enamels. I do use some of their water based paints for small hand brushing. But when it comes to spray painting (especially airbrushing) I use the enamels. But I have use Tamiya lacquer a couple of times. My current project will be sprayed that way.

[greger]

for me its mostly tamiya acrylics for spraying. and if i cant get the color then testers enamal or acrylic.with a brush. have yet to mix and play with that to spray yet. 

[Mike C]

I mostly use Testors enamel. I have used Tamiya laquers a couple of times. My current project will use it because they have the correct Ferrari Red I need for it.

[Art Anderson]

would like to know  if  we all use enamel - i`m new  at this  and i remember using  testor`s enamel boo koo years ago - just trying  to learn a few tricks  - THANKS

Frankly, I use whatever paint I have to to achieve the color I want.  Over the past now 50 years, I've learned that there just isn't any sort of paint (short of such that are catalyzed, which I have no desire to learn how to use!)that I have been unable to use to achieve the desired result.

Art

[Jantrix]

As I live in a humid area, I use Testors and Model Master lacquers, and Duplicolor auto lacquers for gloss paints. Blush can sometimes be a problem but it is easy to deal with and they dry quickly. For flat colors I use Krylon enamels or whatever they are.

[Guest]

Well, since no one else uses it, HOUSE PAINT!!! Just kidding!! Use all the same stuff everyone else uses, just not "craft paints". Still can not get them to work for me..

 

Robert