Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

JF is at the lower end of the price range in most cases.  The lower the price, the more cleanup you should expect to do, particularly if the mold is towards the end of its useful life. 

Posted (edited)

You do get what you pay for .  Lower price equals more work . In the early days of resin , this was an excellent model . Modelhaus set the standards . Jimmy Will tell you himself , if you want pre-trimmed , pay me more . It is about exchanging time into money to earn a living .  Thanx .. 

Edited by dimaxion
Posted

I thought about cutting out the front and putting that part from the donor body but getting opening doors would be a bunch of work. Since I would rather have the crown vic side chrome maybe I will use the resin body as a donor and put the chopped roof and the continental kit on the kit body . Maybe make a mold of the skirts, I want the front of them open into a scoop style.

Posted (edited)

You do get what you pay for .  Lower price equals more work . In the early days of resin , this was an excellent model . Modelhaus set the standards . Jimmy Will tell you himself , if you want pre-trimmed , pay me more . It is about exchanging time into money to earn a living .  Thanx .. 

I understand that but the picture in the ad is a lot different than the product. Needs a little more truth in advertising.

 

 

NB280RF_web-300x300.thumb.jpg.a5cfab6342 

Edited by Jon Haigwood
Posted

Jon, out of fairness show us the same view of your copy as you did the Jimmy Flintstone body.   Even from his picture you can see he never intended for the doors to open on the chopped sedan.

Posted

Jon, out of fairness show us the same view of your copy as you did the Jimmy Flintstone body.   Even from his picture you can see he never intended for the doors to open on the chopped sedan.

I agree the way it had to be cast there was no other that it could have had opening doors. And I am good with that. As I said this is my first resin body and now I know not order one with opening doors (sharp learning curve). My main problem is the hug flash on the front. That would be very time consuming to grind out. I will figure out how to use it but I will most likely chop off the stuff I want and put it on the kit body. I do have a few resin bodies I picked up at swap meets and the don't have this issue but then again they are a different style of car. 

I have never bought on from Jimmy and from what I have seen he makes some neat stuff but I was wondering if all that flash in the front was what I should expect.

Don't get me wrong I am not dissing him any just need some input.

Posted

I have three of Jimmy Flintstone's resin bodies and there's really not a lot of flash on any of them, just some. Jimmy belongs to one of the clubs that I belong to and he's a great guy, and some of our club members have made masters for Jimmy also. He should be vending at the NNL East, so stop by and say hello.

Posted

I have bought bodies from him, and I have been very pleased with the quality. I would suggest that the first thing you should do is contact him, and show him the photos of what you received. It is entirely possible that this is just an aberration, a mistake that should have never been shipped. Stuff happens you know.....................give him the benefit of the doubt and the chance to make it right. I am sure he will.

Posted

Was this bought from Jimmy or another vendor? Can you PM me the auction link?

I've bought JF stuff before and while its not Modelhaus, it is typically pretty good. This is well below the typical JF standards. 

I'd contact the seller and ask for a replacement or a refund. 

Posted

Jon, I too, am wondering if this came straight from Jimmy.  Me and a couple of model buddies help Jimmy set up and vend every year at NNL East.  This means unpacking tons of small, individual boxes from larger packing boxes.  We randomly open one box of every product number to display the actual model.  Then we open every box that is sold and make sure it is not broken, chipped, etc.  I have never seen any body any where near as bad as what you have.  Actually, I have never seen a bad casting at all.  I'm sure if this is from Jimmy, he would make it right for you.

Posted (edited)

The example I have here looks the same as Jons'  Its definitely a bit scruffy round the edges compared to some other casters but the outside of my casting is nice and smooth and dead square with no flaws anywhere.

I think the picture of the front makes it look worse than it really is. All that flash on mine is paper thin and will clean off with little effort.

I have a number of Jimmys' bodies here and provided you aren't averse to some clean up I see them as decent  value and perfectly useable.

 

 

 

IMG_5584_zpseds0wec0.JPG

IMG_5586_zpsawmltmmg.JPG

Edited by Roncla
Posted

The example I have here looks the same as Jons'  Its definitely a bit scruffy round the edges compared to some other casters but the outside of my casting is nice and smooth and dead square with no flaws anywhere.

I think the picture of the front makes it look worse than it really is. All that flash on mine is paper thin and will clean off with little effort.

I have a number of Jimmys' bodies here and provided you aren't averse to some clean up I see them as decent  value and perfectly useable.

IMG_5584_zpseds0wec0.jpg

IMG_5586_zpsawmltmmg.jpg

Yeah the rest of it looks great and with opening doors frames on the original that can be expected.  if I were ti use it I would just replace the front with part of the donor body. For what I want I will just take the roof and the continental kit and maybe the rear wheel  areas 

Posted

I sent a email to JF which included a picture of the front (same as above) and asked him if this was normally the way they came. He reply with 

"yes on nb280 that's thick on original amt kit  just sand flt to desired thickness"  

So the answer to my question on the original post "is this typical" is yes it is on this body due to the design of the original AMT body.

Thanks Jimmy for your response and the feedback from those here on the forum. Not sure at this time how I will progress with this build but I won't hesitate buying from JK in the future. 

Posted

In my experience with his bodies, they are thick and not smooth on the inside.  They require a decent amount of work to fit body and chassis in them.  Later products are better than some of his earlier stuff.  The last body I used from him was a sedan delivery for the Revell Del Rio.  It needed "hogging" to fit the chassis and interior, but not anyway near some of his other stuff.  

Posted

Most of his items are pretty thick and need to be thin walled and trimmed for things to fit but I enjoy building J/F stuff like this PT Cruiser panel . You cant really force fit resin , it will crack or break....if you do ruin it and its not fixable your not out of big bucks,,

IM000170IM000004.JPG

This was just a back half of a small 30s 40s truck box that was super thick and top heavy,I but I changed a few things and had to lengthen the 41 Chevy frame..took some time but its different

DSC04572

VERY thick DSC04622

DSC04823

Posted

This is an example of a 34 Ford Roadster body I bought at a hobby shop that sold some of JF's products quite a few years ago. 

As a few others have said, the places where it counts are nicely done, but as you can see, there is cleanup to do where the interior is and also where the donor kit's (Revell's 34 Ford) trunk goes. Also depending on the age of the mold, just as with normal reissued kits, there may be more flash than if it was a fresh mold. Another resin conversion I bought of a truck is a prime example of how the mold's age can effect the finished product. In this case, the caster I was buying it off of did tell me there was going to be a lot of work on it to do because the mold was old and the one I was getting was probably going to be the last he would cast from that mold, but I wanted the truck regardless of the work because I wanted that style truck. The hood in the pic is from the same caster, just a much newer mold than the truck itself.

Maybe some of the extra flash on the pic in the original post is just that the mold is showing its age?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...