tachyonbb Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 I think if you look closely, the AAR Cuda had its alternator on the drivers side of the engine. I know the standard 340 small block in regular passenger cars had it on the passenger side but for some reason Keith Black moved his to the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 (edited) I think if you look closely, the AAR Cuda had its alternator on the drivers side of the engine. I know the standard 340 small block in regular passenger cars had it on the passenger side but for some reason Keith Black moved his to the other side. You are correct Bruce, it was installed on the driver side and lowered a fair bit. I still have a lot to add to the engine bay (oil cooler, remote oil filter, expansion tank, etc.) so I may not take on relocating the alternator but stay tuned. Edited July 27, 2017 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaguar man 21 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Incredible work jc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhedir6 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Nice work JC. I'm planning on one of these too down the road. I'm starting with the '70 Bud Moore Mustang first. Just ordered a set of those Minilites for mine. They look fantastic. I think maybe a late '60's early '70s Trans Am group build sounds good?Looking forward to your next update.David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Thanks Jeremy.David, I'll post some pictures this evening of the mods I did to the Fireball Minilites, maybe they will work on the your 'Stang as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Coming along nicely, JC! I've been hankering to build a road racer, and this is inspiring, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.G. Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Apparently you didn't properly read my post: "...hasn't been a properly "good" 1:25 scale AAR Cuda kit made, from a mainstream producer."Owning two of the new Revell Cuda 2n1 kits, from which J.C. is doing a superb job converting, and most all other has been mass produced, is the point of my saying, that now Revell could (and should) finally do a good 1:25 AAR Cuda version based upon their new release.Love the stance and wheels and tires J.C. Keep up the great work! The kit being used here is an all new tool in 1/25 scale by Revell 1st released a year or 2 ago. This is NOT the old 1980s inaccurate Monogram 1/24 scale tool re-issued again. Although the green hood is from that old Monogram kit trimmed down slightly to fit in the 1/25 scale body.Apparently you think the new Revell 1/25 kit is just the old Monogram recycled again. If that's the case, then I suggest you check out the new Revell 'Cuda kit. It's still not perfect, it IS a model car kit, but it's WAY better than the old Cuda and Challenger kits. Your wish HAS come true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) Thanks Daniel and Jerry. David here are my wheels/tires. I drilled the hub and installed a stub axle. The wheel backs come as 1-piece. I had to modify the front wheel backs to fit my narrow tires and also utilize the kit's nice disk brakes. I removed all the lettering from the tires except "Good Year". Edited July 28, 2017 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhedir6 Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Thanks Daniel and Jerry. David here are my wheels/tires. I drilled the hub and installed a stub axle. The wheel backs come as 1-piece. I had to modify the front wheel backs to fit my narrow tires and also utilize the kit's nice disk brakes. Really nice JC. I'll likely do exactly the same thing. I'm using pretty much the same method on the new Fusion glue kit. Same thing, decent looking brake discs hidden by the wheel back so I hollowed the wheel backs out and used the outer ring to connect to the front half just like you have here. Looking forward to more JC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 (edited) Construction of the main roll cage. Make sure to check your references to get bar size right. The Cuda used 1.5" tubing, I'm using 1.5 mm (.060") rod which scales out very close. Edited July 31, 2017 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metaldrumm Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Man i cant wait to see this one done, i love that series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Driver Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 That roll cage is a work of art in and of itself JC!I'm enjoying the ongoing updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Keep up the great work JC! Using this kit as a basis is MILES ahead than using the last abomination that Revell put out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Owning two of the new Revell Cuda 2n1 kits, from which J.C. is doing a superb job converting, and most all other has been mass produced, is the point of my saying, that now Revell could (and should) finally do a good 1:25 AAR Cuda version based upon their new release. I don't know what Revell is waiting for in this new tooling. A fresh kit of the AAR 'Cuda would seem to be a no brainer. Of course, now that JC is doing all this work, they'll announce a kit probably next year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr mopar Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 I don't know what Revell is waiting for in this new tooling. A fresh kit of the AAR 'Cuda would seem to be a no brainer. Of course, now that JC is doing all this work, they'll announce a kit probably next year! Bill I think you would be safe to say that .................... Revell dose weird things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps46 Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 It is magic, I could have sworn that cage only had 2 sides a few hours ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the interest gentlemen.Yea Gary I updated the post throughout yesterday as I made progress. There is over 1 yard of rod in that cage! Edited July 30, 2017 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 JC- I love what you are doing here and the level of detail you are creating really shows.Just for clarification, what front and rear tires did you finally go with? What kits are they from? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have wanted to build a Trans Am 70 Mustang for ages and yours is getting that plan moved closer to the head of the pack.Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Thanks Tom. I used the "Good-Year Blue Streak Sports Car Special" tires that have been included in many different Revellogram kits. A few options:Essex Wire Cobra 427All the '66-71 racing Corvette kits: Penske Sunoco, Owens Corning, Stars & Stripes, Rebel Le Mans'32 Ford : 3-window and 5-window Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Interior mods: Separated the rear seat panels and attached them to the rear bulk head. Covered them with blank off plates and added a simulated door jamb. Added cover plates over the door panel scallops. Removed the lower dash valance. Modified seat from the Revellogram Shelby GT350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhedir6 Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Construction of the main roll cage. Make sure to check your references to get bar size right. The Cuda used 1.5" tubing I am using 1.6 mm (.060") rod which scales out very close. Ok JC. You need to do a tutorial on how to build a rollcage with pics and materials list cause this thing is a work of art, easily one of the best scratch built rollcages I've ever seen. JC- I love what you are doing here and the level of detail you are creating really shows. Just for clarification, what front and rear tires did you finally go with? What kits are they from? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have wanted to build a Trans Am 70 Mustang for ages and yours is getting that plan moved closer to the head of the pack. Later- I agree Tom. One of the reasons I started rounding up parts for mine was seeing this. I'm a Mustang guy, and been wanting to do one of the '70 Boss' for a long time. This thread has inspired me to get cracking on it. I just need to finish up the 100 or so WiP's I have on the go first..... Interior mods: Separated the rear seat panels and attached them to the rear bulk head. Covered them with blank off plates and added a simulated door jamb. Added cover plates over the door panel scallops. Removed the lower dash valance. Modified seat from the Revellogram Shelby GT350. Awesome JC. More please. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 (edited) Thanks David but scratch built? I just drew it up in CAD and had it 3D printed. I’ll consider a tutorial on building a roll cage but really I fabricate a cage using the same techniques and the same sequence a 1:1 cage would be built. Main hoop Front facing legs Filler/cross bars As for tools/materials here is what I used to build my cage. The candle is used to set the shape of the bends The jar contains scraps of plastic dissolved in liquid cement - makes a great adhesive and also a nice filler I love the Touch-N-Flow glue applicator - use it constantly. Edited July 31, 2017 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Wasn’t happy with the position of the diagonal bar from the top of the A pillar down to the transmission tunnel so I reworked It. Looks better now. Had to notch the ends of the dash to clear the roll cage. Still more bars to add behind the roll hoop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 (edited) When they sent the cars out to be acid dipped, oops I mean "chemical cleaned" they left them in the tank a little too long. This caused issue with body flex. The extensive roll cage was designed to help minimize this. I understand the body flex was more severe in the Challengers. The thinking was the cars were not properly neutralized after the acid bath and continued to etch. Edited August 3, 2017 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustyMojave Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 At least they weren't acid dipped as long as Smokey Yunick's '67 Camaro. (The 1st one, not the one that Christy Edelbrock has been vintage racing for several years) That car was so thin the breeze in the paddock at Riverside was rippling the roof panel while we were Tech Inspecting it. One could not lean against any panel to examine it without denting the car. There were so many things blatantly violating the rules in that car that Tech Chief John Timanus told Smokey to never ever bring that thing around again. Full belly pan, reshaped body panels, plastic rear window, etc. ... About as true to Chevy showroom product as a Picasso is to a photograph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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