Revell 1971 Boss 351 Mustang

[randyc]

I found a listing of " the most original 71 Mustang in existence" or someone like that.  Can't find it again now dang it.   

Mine is silver (pewter) with blue interior like the web page.  I used duplicolor wheel paint that is close to pewter.  

This may be the best kit I've ever built.  Be done in a few days. 

[vamach1]

8 minutes ago, randyc said:

I found a listing of " the most original 71 Mustang in existence" or someone like that.  Can't find it again now dang it.   

Mine is silver (pewter) with blue interior like the web page.  I used duplicolor wheel paint that is close to pewter.  

This may be the best kit I've ever built.  Be done in a few days. 

I saw this Grabber Blue one at Carlisle PA All Ford show four years ago.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/1902-most-original-1971-boss-351-in-the-world/

There’s a 73 Mustang convertible a Ford dealer  stored that I think still has less than 100 miles.

 

Edited August 25, 2023 by vamach1

[randyc]

1 minute ago, vamach1 said:

I saw this Grabber Blue one at Carlisle PA All Ford show four years ago.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/1902-most-original-1971-boss-351-in-the-world/

Maybe the one I saw was a Mach 1

 

[deuces wild]

1 hour ago, randyc said:

Maybe the one I saw was a Mach 1

 

Yeah, I think so....??

[vamach1]

59 minutes ago, deuces wild said:

Yeah, I think so....??

With apologies to the car owner but there’s no vacuum hoses to the vacuum motors on the ram air flappers, the front fender molding and hood trim should be body color and not chrome, I’m not sure what the air cleaner lid is from, and 71 Mach1’s did not have a chrome front bumper or rear window louvers.  There are many things the Marti report will not tell you that are not original if parts have been changed or replaced or added.  I see what looks like a judge walking with a clipboard so if it’s a concours restored class it will lose some originality points.

[vamach1]

Now this would be an interesting build to combine parts from a 70 Boss 302 and 71 Mach1 and 71 Boss 351 kits.  No ram air parts needed.

 

[tim boyd]

Guys.....several 1971 Boss 351s with several different factory paint/interior treatments as well as Mach 1s can be seen in the photo album on the SVT 30th anniversary and Mustang Owners Club of Southeast Michigan All-Ford show last weekend.  Check it out at this link....TB 

[vamach1]

1 hour ago, tim boyd said:

Guys.....several 1971 Boss 351s with several different factory paint/interior treatments as well as Mach 1s can be seen in the photo album on the SVT 30th anniversary and Mustang Owners Club of Southeast Michigan All-Ford show last weekend.  Check it out at this link....TB 

There is always some nice Boss 351’s at the Boss Nationals.  The four day show in East Moline IL ended yesterday.  I’ve seen some short videos and pictures but just exterior pictures.  I’ll be going to the Mustang Club of America show September 9-10 in Melbourne which should have some nice restored examples.

[Merkur XR4Ti]

I'll post pictures later, but after some experimentation I found that Tamiya TS-76 Mica Silver is a very good match for the silver decals in the kit and that is what I painted my hood.

[Maindrian Pace]

Just tried to buy one of these from Omnimodels through ebay last night, but they cancelled the order and refunded me. So I got on this morning looking for another seller, and the same listing from Omnimodels was there... so I bought it again. And they just refunded me again. Listing no longer up there. Buncha goofballs.

[Mr mopar]

17 minutes ago, Maindrian Pace said:

Just tried to buy one of these from Omnimodels through ebay last night, but they cancelled the order and refunded me. So I got on this morning looking for another seller, and the same listing from Omnimodels was there... so I bought it again. And they just refunded me again. Listing no longer up there. Buncha goofballs.

I had the same thing happen to me last year .

 

[vamach1]

I’m on Step 36 of this kit and here are a few observations.  I began applying many of the decals in the interior and engine bay and have come to the conclusion that yellow or red decals do not show up well on dark colors even though you might expect they would.  The Autolite Sta-ful decal on the battery painted semi-gloss black was barely visible.  I found a similar decal in white in my decals spare and applied it and then I found a red one which I applied over the white one.  Not a perfect solution but at least it is more visible.  I remember I had a resin cast Autolite battery but unfortunately it is too large compared to the one in the kit.  The resin part has the battery hold down molded on top and the Autolite Sta-ful letters raised so they can be painted red.  It’s too bad the resin battery is just too large.  I cut the top radiator hose decals into two parts.   If you do not you cut them apart the builder may not notice the letters RAD should be near the radiator and the Autolite while lettering and Ford part number are placed about the midpoint of the hose.  I added some yellow OK decals from my decal spares (Fred Cady maybe) to the blue engine heads as the yellow would not show up on the valve covers very well.  I realize this is way in the weeds but I guess I just notice these things.  Assembly so far has been pretty straightforward so far.  I’ll get some primer on the body and hopefully the color but with the humidity in Florida painting has been a challenge.  I will skip replicating the body color factory “overspray” on the chassis underside - maybe on the next build.  All in all this kit is excellent and it is going to make it very difficult to go back and build any of the AMT or MPC 71-73 Mustangs now that Revell has created this tooling that is better in every way and for about the same price.

[slusher]

Great clean work!

[1972coronet]

I'm picking fly poop out of pepper here : is that D1AE number exclusive to the 1971 / Cleveland ? Or was it continued through 1973 without being superseded to a D3AE ? 

[Stef]

Gotta say, Rex, watching you build this is surreal. You're the 71-73 expert, and you've, we've all, been waiting for this kit since forever. Godspeed, good sir.

[tim boyd]

12 hours ago, vamach1 said:

I’m on Step 36 of this kit and here are a few observations.  I began applying many of the decals in the interior and engine bay and have come to the conclusion that yellow or red decals do not show up well on dark colors even though you might expect they would.  The Autolite Sta-ful decal on the battery painted semi-gloss black was barely visible.  I found a similar decal in white in my decals spare and applied it and then I found a red one which I applied over the white one.  Not a perfect solution but at least it is more visible.  I remember I had a resin cast Autolite battery but unfortunately it is too large compared to the one in the kit.  The resin part has the battery hold down molded on top and the Autolite Sta-ful letters raised so they can be painted red.  It’s too bad the resin battery is just too large.  I cut the top radiator hose decals into two parts.   If you do not you cut them apart the builder may not notice the letters RAD should be near the radiator and the Autolite while lettering and Ford part number are placed about the midpoint of the hose.  I added some yellow OK decals from my decal spares (Fred Cady maybe) to the blue engine heads as the yellow would not show up on the valve covers very well.  I realize this is way in the weeds but I guess I just notice these things.  Assembly so far has been pretty straightforward so far.  I’ll get some primer on the body and hopefully the color but with the humidity in Florida painting has been a challenge.  I will skip replicating the body color factory “overspray” on the chassis underside - maybe on the next build.  All in all this kit is excellent and it is going to make it very difficult to go back and build any of the AMT or MPC 71-73 Mustangs now that Revell has created this tooling that is better in every way and for about the same price.

Rex...I too experienced that the battery decal, voltage regulator, and valve cover end decals did not look as clear as one would hope after their application (the fact that the valve cover decals numbers and font style exactly matched my 1/1 references compensated for that in my view - perhaps that was ill-founded justification on my part???)  

Anyway, thanks so much for sharing your build with us here.  Aso noted you replicated the factory assembly striping on the driveshaft...COOLLL!!!!  

TB

[Bainford]

14 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

I'm picking fly poop out of pepper here : is that D1AE number exclusive to the 1971 / Cleveland ? Or was it continued through 1973 without being superseded to a D3AE ? 

I don't know specifically for this application, but typical Ford numbering convention of that period will use the same part number for any application that uses the exact same part. I would expect that any similarly equipped Cleveland powered Mustang from '71 to '73 would use the D1AE part. I say 'similarly equipped' because some options, such as air conditioning or power steering, may require a different hose, and therefore, a different number.

It is conceivable that the hose, for any unknown reason, was changed in some way for '72 or '73, and the part number changed accordingly. If it matters, please verify.

[Rodent]

1 hour ago, Bainford said:

I don't know specifically for this application, but typical Ford numbering convention of that period will use the same part number for any application that uses the exact same part. I would expect that any similarly equipped Cleveland powered Mustang from '71 to '73 would use the D1AE part. I say 'similarly equipped' because some options, such as air conditioning or power steering, may require a different hose, and therefore, a different number.

It is conceivable that the hose, for any unknown reason, was changed in some way for '72 or '73, and the part number changed accordingly. If it matters, please verify.

The "A" would signify that it fits the full-size cars too. If it was Mustang-exclusive, it would be "D1ZE". Ford seemed to use the "most senior" vehicle for their part numbers.

[Bainford]

On 8/28/2023 at 11:04 PM, 1972coronet said:

I'm picking fly poop out of pepper here : is that D1AE number exclusive to the 1971 / Cleveland ? Or was it continued through 1973 without being superseded to a D3AE ? 

Out of pure morbid curiosity, I looked it up. 72 & 73 Mustangs with 351C use upper hose D2AE. Don't know why the change. 

[1972coronet]

11 hours ago, Bainford said:

Out of pure morbid curiosity, I looked it up. 72 & 73 Mustangs with 351C use upper hose D2AE. Don't know why the change. 

Thanks for the info . Not sure what prompted me to consider that; the part number.  Perhaps the routing (shape) was modified ? 

From what I'm able to recall from my years of working in the parts dept. of the local Ford dealership, the part numbers' alpha-numeric sequence (e.g. the first two characters for decade/year) is the only portion which hath stuck with me.
That changed in the late 1990's (after the "F-"  prefix, which was dropped after 1998 (though Motorcraft labeled some of the parts as "F9-"), after changing - gradually - from 1997-onward ("W-" = 1997, "X-" = 1998, "Y-" = 1999, and "Z-" = 2000).

Oldest part numbers' prefixes I can remember seeing (regular stock, not NOS) ? 
A7- 
B2-
I'm not sure how 1930's and earlier numbers were assigned.

 

Edited August 30, 2023 by 1972coronet
CLAIRIFICATION

[Merkur XR4Ti]

Did anyone get the Revell of Germany version? I'm curious to see if they expanded the decal sheet for that version like they did for the Olds 442. I could use the silver seat inserts from that sheet if they are included and anyone has them.

[Luc Janssens]

2 hours ago, Merkur XR4Ti said:

Did anyone get the Revell of Germany version? I'm curious to see if they expanded the decal sheet for that version like they did for the Olds 442. I could use the silver seat inserts from that sheet if they are included and anyone has them.

See page 30

 

[fairlane1320]

5 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

Thanks for the info . Not sure what prompted me to consider that; the part number.  Perhaps the routing (shape) was modified ? 

From what I'm able to recall from my years of working in the parts dept. of the local Ford dealership, the part numbers' alpha-numeric sequence (e.g. the first two characters for decade/year) is the only portion which hath stuck with me.
That changed in the late 1990's (after the "F-"  prefix, which was dropped after 1998 (though Motorcraft labeled some of the parts as "F9-"), after changing - gradually - from 1997-onward ("W-" = 1997, "X-" = 1998, "Y-" = 1999, and "Z-" = 2000).

Oldest part numbers' prefixes I can remember seeing (regular stock, not NOS) ? 
A7- 
B2-
I'm not sure how 1930's and earlier numbers were assigned.

 

The part numbering system that Henry designed way back when has been degraded beyond belief, basic part numbers are pretty much useless now. The catalog is a giant mess. I could go on for days...... 

[Merkur XR4Ti]

22 hours ago, Luc Janssens said:

See page 30

 

Oh geez I totally missed that!

 

I wish we got the expanded decal sheet in the NA releases, those seat insert and seat belt graphics look very nice indeed.

[vamach1]

6 hours ago, Merkur XR4Ti said:

Oh geez I totally missed that!

 

I wish we got the expanded decal sheet in the NA releases, those seat insert and seat belt graphics look very nice indeed.

Yes that decalssheet would be nice to have in the US version too.  The original owner of my Mach1 had it exported to France so it probably had European license plates but it has a MPH speedo and not kilometers as I think it was ordered by a US citizen that worked abroad until 1981 when the car same back to the USA and that’s when I purchased it after seeing a newpaper ad.