1929 Ford Pickup 80's Contemporary Street Rod - A Tim Boyd Tribute!

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

Looking good, looking forward to seeing the paint job.... -RRR

[tim boyd]

Great progress, guys.  So cool to see these projects progress over time!   TB 

[Zippi]

Yeah this is looking Great.  What's the color going to be?

[alan barton]

Hi guys,

Just a quick update but no photos for now.  I got paint on the body today but got a bit heavy handed on the tailgate with the Tamiya pink primer so I am going to give the lower half of the car another day to gas out before sanding it smooth.  The cab, doors, hood grille and roll pan are now in Tamiya Italian red and looking great.  Will get some clear on the colour on the weekend.

Before final assembly, I still have to get induction and exhausts finalised but then it should be smooth sailing.

Except....

That I decided to hinge the doors. Using a bit of Rockin' Rodney's technique and a bit of my own.  I must be a glutton for punishment because I have broken the A pillar at least four times now. It even broke where I had already re-inforced it.  Did it ever occur to Revell, back in the day, that if they looked at what the other guys were using, they might have been able to sell more kits?  Sheesh, you would think it would be easier after putting these things together for over fifty years but Revell plastic from the sixties, seventies and eighties is as still as fragile as glass!

Wish me luck!

Cheers

Alan

[NOBLNG]

Looking forward to seeing that in paint Alan. Sorry to hear of your troubles with the A pillars. Could you carve a slot on the inside and insert a small brass rod and super glue it in place? The next time I chop a vehicle, I will drill and pin all the posts so I don’t break them like I did on my first one.

[alan barton]

Unfortunately not that easy Greg.  Believe me I thought of it and I thank you for your suggestion, but just looking at the pillar is enough to snap it so there was no way I was going to get a groove carved inside it.  I did glue strips of Evergreen in there but alas, one of those snapped as well.  It is what it is.

Cheers

Alan

[alan barton]

OK, paint is curing so it was time to get a few other details squared away.

I wanted the powerplant to have a bit more six appeal and the best way to do that was with exotic induction.  Now I've never worked for Edelbrock or Kinsler so I have no idea if this 3x2 injection could possibly work.  Fortunately, the car is plastic and will never get fuel run through it so I'm just going to assume it could work - hey, hot rodders have been fabbing up backyard manifolds since the very beginning so why stop now?

i found a Ford manifold, FE perhaps, in the parts box and trimmed it down to fit the V6. I then reworked the runners a bit before making a base plate to suit the injectors. The final shot is a mockup using three sets of Monogram sprintcar injectors and aircleaners, and I'm pretty happy with it. All I have to hope is that it clears the hood!

Cheers

Alan

[Kit Karson]

@alan bartonI know I'm not the only one watching over your shoulder... 

Just an update from @Speedpro he's been painting over on his 

Just imagine the paint job that Paul is planning for our '29A Closed Cab Pickup Tim Boyd Tribute Build! -KK

Edited January 19, 2022 by Kit Karson
Text correction...

[bill-e-boy]

Not much progress as it is summer down this way and try to take some time off. Got away for a few days over Xmas and New Year and a lot of summer events in the weekends since. Covid lock down has stopped that now

I attempted to drill the steering column for a shifter and indicator but the drill bits I have did not like drilling round material. I put in an order for micro drills with a larger shank. Set it all up in the Unimat Mill and drilled for the pin size I was using - perfect. I have ordered more of the micro drills

Set up of the column with steering wheel attached

and a quickie mock up in primer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kit Karson]

@bill-e-boyWOW! This is coming along swimmingly, Brother! -KK

[bill-e-boy]

Finally got some colour on this sucker

And clear coated.  The base colour is a Testors enamel so I did not want to clear coat with a hot lacquer so got some Humbrol Ultra Clear. All went swimmingly but horror the front left guard crinkled. Not sure what caused this. The Tamiya under coat which is  lacquer based had been left for about a month and the Testers Pacific Blue went on OK

Some sort of reaction even after letting the Testors gas out for nearly a week. I have sanded the guard and spot primed and recoated with Pacific Blue. It's now serving time in the hot box and I will clear coat the guard over the weekend - fingers crossed

Other than the guard the rest of the paint on the model is primo except it is fairly soft - need some wait time while it hardens

Such is life - will spend time with a quick build while waiting for the paint to harden

Thanks for looking

 

[slusher]

I have the same color for a woody build…

[bill-e-boy]

I sanded back the crazed paint on the guard and reprimed where it through to bare plastic, dusted on the colour and clear and now looking good again

Now the long wait to let the paint harden. I have it in my hot box but being enamel it still takes ages to harden fully

 

[tim boyd]

19 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

I sanded back the crazed paint on the guard and reprimed where it through to bare plastic, dusted on the colour and clear and now looking good again

Now the long wait to let the paint harden. I have it in my hot box but being enamel it still takes ages to harden fully

 

Bill....that color looks mega-cool to my eyes.  And congrats on the paint save.  Sometimes my biggest respect goes to modelers who encounter problems along the way (in reality, we all do) and somehow find a way to persist and bring the project to completion.   Way to go...!   TIM 

[Tuffy's Garage]

What a thread I have been thinking of the 29 pickup using the roadster kit for the frame a running gear. Thank you everyone for your posts, it saves me a lot of questions on how to do things

[tim boyd]

On 3/6/2022 at 8:14 PM, Tuffy's Garage said:

What a thread I have been thinking of the 29 pickup using the roadster kit for the frame a running gear. Thank you everyone for your posts, it saves me a lot of questions on how to do things

Charlie....go for it.  Also, I have an article in the cue at MCM (probably a few issues into the future) on a somewhat similar project.  If mine is any clue, I think you'll really like the results of your efforts.  Keep us in the loop as it comes together.  ...   Best....TIM  

Edited March 11, 2022 by tim boyd

[Kit Karson]

@Dennis Lacy Just got a sneak peek at the color for the Trib'29PU now in the capable hands of @Speedprosomewhere just below the 49th parallel.

@tim boydI have it on inside information that your article is slated for issue #215/#216.  Looking forward to seeing your new/old build!

@Tuffy's GaragePlease let us know more, Brother!

Edited March 25, 2022 by Kit Karson
Text correction...

[alan barton]

It was January 1 when I last posted, and I thought I was nearly finished.

 

Then I went backwards!

First, I had somehow mounted the engine too far rearwards.  The injection would not clear the firewall.  Who thought you couldn't fit a V6 in a Model A? I have done  more test fitting and planning than ever before on this model so it was a bit depressing.  The engine mounts took quite a bit of doing so the idea of dismantling the chassis, moving the engine mounts and repainting everything had my lip dropped significantly!

So I thought I would leave the chassis for a while and get the doors hung.  That's when I found out that the armrests on the Buttera door panels interfered with the dash.  AAAAAAAGGGGGHHHHH! I put it away and got on with other things.

In the meantime, I retired from work and having just experienced out hottest summer in record, sitting inside under the air con and building models was just what the doctor ordered!  I have built seven since January and last night decided it was high time the pickup came back to the top of the list.

It dawned on me that it would be a lot easier to move the engine mount on the block rather than the ones on the frame, and a lot easier to repaint as well.  I got out a fresh blade and sliced as carefully as I dared.  I also made a new gearbox mount which will lift the extension housing a tad to give a better angle.  Mock-ups showed that I would have to lower my injection as well so they came out and a smidge was sectioned from the uprights to get better clearance. The engine is now outside with fresh paint drying.

It's good to be back!  Stay tuned for regular updates until this puppy is finished.

Cheers

Alan

[foghorn62]

I’ve been following this thread for quite some time, with great respect and admiration for all of your amazing talents and abilities.   The subject line first caught my eye because of my long time admiration and friendship with the legendary Tim Boyd, and I have been fascinated with the various ways all of you have approached the challenges of this build.  Fast forward to about a month ago when I agreed to a build challenge in another group and decided to select this kit.  I have been wanting to build one based on a 1/1 that I often saw at a local weekly Saturday evening rod run while I was still living in outside of Houston Texas.  I always loved this simple little black with red 29A with flathead power, and barn wood bed.

I started by shaving a tiny bit off of the top of the windshield frame, and door tops, and installing a piece of smooth styrene to mimic the slight rake and smooth top, and small visor on the subject version.

I then built a flathead for the truck, and scratch built a set of headers out of brass, using paint brush cones for the outlets.  All twenty four of the bolt holes were drilled out on each head, and replaced with scale 9/16” acorn nuts from RB Motion.

I glued the hood halves together, cut the radiator shell and glued the top portion to the hood.  Then I pinned the top to the radiator to enable the hood to open like the one on the subject example.

Turning to the frame, I Zd it using the back half with coil spring perches from the AMT Mod Rod kit.

I shaved one leaf off of the top of the dropped front axle assembly, in order to get the desired stance.

Starting to get a little paint on the body, I then turned my attention to mocking up the barn wood bed.  I’m looking forward to scratching up all of the various metal brackets out of weathered brass which will be used to hold the bed together.   I haven’t totally decided on what tires to use yet.  These from one of the Revell 34 Ford kits are about the right size, but i hate the two piece configuration.  I can’t seem to find a glue that will hold them together.  Anyone got any ideas?  I’ve been struggling with fisheyes in the Wicked Black water base paint, but I think I’ve finally found a solution using Future for clear.  That stuff is amazing! Coming along, but still a WIP.

Thanks,

Tim Slesak

[bobthehobbyguy]

19 hours ago, alan barton said:

It was January 1 when I last posted, and I thought I was nearly finished.

 

Then I went backwards!

First, I had somehow mounted the engine too far rearwards.  The injection would not clear the firewall.  Who thought you couldn't fit a V6 in a Model A? I have done  more test fitting and planning than ever before on this model so it was a bit depressing.  The engine mounts took quite a bit of doing so the idea of dismantling the chassis, moving the engine mounts and repainting everything had my lip dropped significantly!

So I thought I would leave the chassis for a while and get the doors hung.  That's when I found out that the armrests on the Buttera door panels interfered with the dash.  AAAAAAAGGGGGHHHHH! I put it away and got on with other things.

In the meantime, I retired from work and having just experienced out hottest summer in record, sitting inside under the air con and building models was just what the doctor ordered!  I have built seven since January and last night decided it was high time the pickup came back to the top of the list.

It dawned on me that it would be a lot easier to move the engine mount on the block rather than the ones on the frame, and a lot easier to repaint as well.  I got out a fresh blade and sliced as carefully as I dared.  I also made a new gearbox mount which will lift the extension housing a tad to give a better angle.  Mock-ups showed that I would have to lower my injection as well so they came out and a smidge was sectioned from the uprights to get better clearance. The engine is now outside with fresh paint drying.

It's good to be back!  Stay tuned for regular updates until this puppy is finished.

Cheers

Alan

 

Great save. Sometimes it just makes sense to step back from a project. 

Sometimes despite all the careful planning a key element is missed. I think it happens to everyone once in a while. Its how you deal with ut that counts. 

[slusher]

Man, looking great!

[bobthehobbyguy]

11 hours ago, foghorn62 said:

I’ve been following this thread for quite some time, with great respect and admiration for all of your amazing talents and abilities.   The subject line first caught my eye because of my long time admiration and friendship with the legendary Tim Boyd, and I have been fascinated with the various ways all of you have approached the challenges of this build.  Fast forward to about a month ago when I agreed to a build challenge in another group and decided to select this kit.  I have been wanting to build one based on a 1/1 that I often saw at a local weekly Saturday evening rod run while I was still living in outside of Houston Texas.  I always loved this simple little black with red 29A with flathead power, and barn wood bed.

I started by shaving a tiny bit off of the top of the windshield frame, and door tops, and installing a piece of smooth styrene to mimic the slight rake and smooth top, n.

 Coming along, but still a WIP.

Thanks,

Tim Slesak

Cool. Great project. Coming along nicely.

As far as the wire wheels there have been a couple of articles on how to replace the spokes wirh wire whixh woukd look really nice on this cool rod.

[alan barton]

Glad you could join us, Tim!  That flathead is righteous - I would never have thought of drilling out all the headbolts - talk about dedication.  With that trick flip front hood and cut radiator shell, this could have easily been built in the eighties so it is a perfect fit with the whole theme.  The more the merrier!

Cheers

Alan

 

[alan barton]

Thanks Carl!

Thanks for the re-assurance Bob.  It can be  a bit overwhelming at times, when you put a lot of heart into a car and it bites you. Anyway, all good now.

Got the four bars finished last night.  I drilled a small hole into the centre of some Evergreen #222 and then cut small slices off to make bushes.   Then drilled another hole at right angles.  I found some thin aluminium pins at a craft store. The ends with the heads make the bolt going through the bush while the long shaft obviously makes the four bar.  I few drops of superglue and they looked fine.  I am going to leave them shiny because although this is a monochromatic car, a little bit of bling never hurt anyone!

Exhaust is next.

Cheers

Alan

[tim boyd]

Alan....huge congrats on the retirement.  Big life step, for sure.   I've often thought that among the world's most accomplished modelers are the ones that can recover from the inevitable setbacks involved in high-end model car building and find a way to power their way through to a finished project.  Congrats on finding a way forward....

Tim....be still my heart.  I never ever dreamed you'd get involved in bringing your modeling skills to such a traditional hot rod project.  Can't wait to see how this one comes together.  Makes me very sad to think that Chuck is no longer around to see how you are tackling this project.  

Very best to all still reading this thread started to long ago now by Dennis..  TB