Filler for resin

[stitchdup]

Hi guys, I've got a resin body I found cheap but it has a lot of pin holes. I'm wondering if my usual filler will work for them or is there something better to use. I have 2 part auto filler, spot putty, humbrol model filler and acrylic nail filler  and have ground out the holes a little so theres something for it to bite but my fear is it coming off during the paint process. The body needs a lot of work so I'm not fancying going to all the effort if its not going to work. I dont know f it makes a difference but the resin is white. Thanks for reading

[afx]

I would recommend superglue.

[stitchdup]

1 hour ago, afx said:

I would recommend superglue.

I never even thought of that, thanks

[MrObsessive]

While superglue can be used as a filler, be VERY CAREFUL when sanding it away as it's tougher than resin and may not sand at the same rate. I've had issues in the past where I've had to reconfigure contours as the superglue didn't sand away as fast as the surrounding resin.

One idea to blunt that is to use some baking soda to "dilute" the superglue, thus making it easier to sand once it's flash hardened.

Hope this helps!

[Plowboy]

I did one several years ago that was covered with pinholes front to rear, top to bottom. I just sprayed it with a coat of primer first. Then, used my usual filler which was Squadron at the time. I use Tamiya Gray Putty now which is better. It's much more durable and will stick to anything you put it on. 

[porschercr]

2 part auto filler.

[stitchdup]

10 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

While superglue can be used as a filler, be VERY CAREFUL when sanding it away as it's tougher than resin and may not sand at the same rate. I've had issues in the past where I've had to reconfigure contours as the superglue didn't sand away as fast as the surrounding resin.

One idea to blunt that is to use some baking soda to "dilute" the superglue, thus making it easier to sand once it's flash hardened.

Hope this helps!

I'm wary about using baking soda, I've had problems with it coming through a few months after the builds are finished. It has sent some of my finished builds to the scrap box. I appreciate the suggestion though

Edited November 28, 2020 by stitchdup

[stitchdup]

10 hours ago, Plowboy said:

I did one several years ago that was covered with pinholes front to rear, top to bottom. I just sprayed it with a coat of primer first. Then, used my usual filler which was Squadron at the time. I use Tamiya Gray Putty now which is better. It's much more durable and will stick to anything you put it on. 

 

9 hours ago, porschercr said:

2 part auto filler.

Thanks guys, 

[peteski]

No baking soda in my arsenal of CA glue additives/accelerators!  It is a bad ju-ju!

CA glue takes about 24 hours to fully harden.  If sanded within few hours of setting, it should be just as soft as resin. Just don't wait till the next day.  ANd use the accelerator designed to work with CA glue - not some home-brew solution.  BSI brand accelerator is IMO the best.

[yh70]

just use your spot putty and u will be good...then use filler primer

[robdebie]

I have an aircraft model with similar problems. I concluded that only one filler worked: thin superglue. All others did a bad job of actually filling the hole.

I explored a few pinholes with a needle, and found a cavity (air bubble) beneath each one of them. The photo shows how all the pin holes that I found and opened up with a needle. If you look closely in the canopy coaming area, you can see some of the pinholes as they appeared originally under Mr Surfacer.

The other side of the model was even more badly affected. Here you see all the holes filled with superglue and sanded flat, ready for another coat of Mr Surfacer. I used a needle or a pointy knife blade to apply a small quantity of glue to each hole, preferebly leaving a slightly domed amount of glue, to allow for shrinkage.

It's a lot of work, but it can be solved. Good luck!

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

[NOBLNG]

HOLY Mackerel! ?That’s a lot of holes.

[misterNNL]

I have built a number of resin models from various makers and always use the same stuff I use on styrene. For the basic heavier work I use Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty. I found this product about a year ago and absolutely love it. It smooths on with a dampened digit and sands very nicely. I buy it on line. I have used the same finishing putty literally for decades. I bought a one pound tube of Martin Senour # 6389 light grey lacquer glazing putty back in the 1970's and am still using the same tube. I mostly apply it with either a stiff piece of  thin cardboard stock like a business card or a small steel spatula. Both products adhere to the resin very well and do what I feel needs done.

[stitchdup]

Thanks guys, so far i've used surerglue to mostly fill the larger holes, and since the rain gutters were a complete mess I removed them and one top beam, completely and made new ones from styrene. Still loads to do around the rear doors as they are a complete mess too but I might have a plan for them too. Once I have everything pretty close I'll give it a couple light coats of primer then get out the putty. But thats a few days away as there is plenty other bits to do

[stitchdup]

Ok so none of you guys ideas have worked. I've scrubbed it in hot water, drilled out the pin holes and tried all the above suggestions and they all fall out when sanding. even superglue isn't holding well. any more ideas or should i just trash it? at this point its like a turd on carpet

[peteski]

If everything falls out I think that you didn't remove all the mold release from the casting.  It could even be silicone mold release agent. You might have to wash it in something more potent than hot water.  CA glue usually sticks like mad to  (clean) urethane resin.

[ZTony8]

Believe it or not, I had good luck with good old Testor putty! I used it to fill some voids in some 1/43 scale resin bodies years ago and it still holds and hasn't shrunk. It even smells like the resin bodies, for what that's worth. Similar chemical composition, perhaps?

[1930fordpickup]

7 hours ago, stitchdup said:

Ok so none of you guys ideas have worked. I've scrubbed it in hot water, drilled out the pin holes and tried all the above suggestions and they all fall out when sanding. even superglue isn't holding well. any more ideas or should i just trash it? at this point its like a turd on carpet

What  did you wash this with before you started.?  

[stitchdup]

4 hours ago, 1930fordpickup said:

What  did you wash this with before you started.?  

kitchen degreaser followed by dish soap and hot water

[1930fordpickup]

I am wondering if you still have mold release on the resin. Did you scrub it good before you sanded it? I have read if you sand before you wash you can have problems.  Not sure what products you have over there to use. They gave my family the boot form Scotland a few generations ago. LOL   I think you need to give it another good wash with some good degreaser and a scrub brush. If this does not work it may just be a relic material for you.