32 Ford Y Block drag coupe

[Zippi]

Coming along nicely.

[James2]

I like where this is going....

[Dennis Lacy]

Nice update! Chassis set up looks great and stance is on-point. 😍

[Kenmojr]

Interesting build for sure...

[Limeyglue]

Nice update  really like the stance 

[TarheelRick]

Going to be a sweet little coupe.  Here is another for inspiration. Saw him compete at the SEGA event at North Wilkesboro Dragstrip back in May.

[tim boyd]

On 6/9/2023 at 9:49 AM, modelfink said:

AN UPDATE! After a couple years away from the bench I'm back on this project and feeling pretty good about it! Since I last posted I sorted out all the suspension components. Up front I'm using the dropped tube axle from the Revell 32 which required a significant blocking of the leaf spring to get the ride height I wanted. I built some front shocks and a tie rod out of styrene. Split wishbones are from the Revell 29 Ford. I made some brackets to attach the front bones and rear ladder bars. Out back the Ford 9 inch is supported by coil springs from the parts box and shocks from the AMT 41 Willys with ladder bars from the Revell SW&C Willys. I replaced the super long tail on the Y block trans with a 4 speed from a mid 60s Mustang Gt kit. (Thanks Dennis) and cut down the long oil filter to clear the steering box. I'm really happy with the ride height and how everything is fitting together. 

 

Very cool update, Travis!!!  Go, Go, Go!

My '30 5W project inspired by the Lauzader car (referenced earlier inthe thread) is coming along slowly but surely.  Paint ('66 Corvette Mosport Green Metallic) is on and rubbed, interior is mostly finished, tinted ("plexiglas") windows installed, engine mostly finished and wired.  Mine has over the fender headers, making our two projects a very cool "ying and yang" treatment of that subject.  

I've been fiddling with the rear suspension, trying to adapt it from the Revell Anglia kit using the period correct quarter elliptic springs.  I've thought several times about using the original Revell SWC kit parts, but assumed (falsely, it seems, looking at your pix) that the traction bars were the same as the Anglia kit.  The ones you chose, plus your choice of large coils mounted to the axle, is a really interesting alternative and still era-correct.  It might end up working better than the plan I am pursuing right now.   If I end up going that way, i will be sure to credit you as the source. 

Presuming we both get ours done at some point, would be way cool to do an online visual comparo of some kind the two...meanwhile, count me in the crowd cheering you on to completion....TB 

[modelfink]

Thanks Tim! I'm excited to see yours. Since this is supposed to be a "quick and fun" project, I didn't fool with lots of engineering of the rear suspension. Depending on the rear slick you are using, the Ala Kart coil springs were the perfect height for the AMT dragmaster slicks. I'm hoping to have it done in time for the show in Atlanta, you should bring yours and we can line em up together!

[Phildaupho]

Great project of a great Deuce

[tim boyd]

Travis....any further updates to share?   Best....TIM

[modelfink]

13 hours ago, tim boyd said:

Travis....any further updates to share?   Best....TIM

Thanks for your interest Tim. I got distracted with other projects. I'll get back to it soon

[tim boyd]

8 hours ago, modelfink said:

Thanks for your interest Tim. I got distracted with other projects. I'll get back to it soon

Travis....boy does that sound familiar!!!!     TB

[tim boyd]

On 6/21/2023 at 9:20 AM, modelfink said:

Thanks Tim! I'm excited to see yours. Since this is supposed to be a "quick and fun" project, I didn't fool with lots of engineering of the rear suspension. Depending on the rear slick you are using, the Ala Kart coil springs were the perfect height for the AMT dragmaster slicks. I'm hoping to have it done in time for the show in Atlanta, you should bring yours and we can line em up together!

Travis...my project got finally completed (that's what magazine article deadlines are good for...LOL...) and is in the new issue of Model Cars Magazine (#222) with six page how-to.  Didn't quite get everything I wanted but pretty close.   I made a general reference in the text that other MCM forum members were working on similar projects....and looking forward to your updates when they become available...TIM

[modelfink]

On 11/26/2023 at 7:32 AM, tim boyd said:

Travis...my project got finally completed (that's what magazine article deadlines are good for...LOL...) and is in the new issue of Model Cars Magazine (#222) with six page how-to.  Didn't quite get everything I wanted but pretty close.   I made a general reference in the text that other MCM forum members were working on similar projects....and looking forward to your updates when they become available...TIM

That's awesome Tim! I'll have to check out that issue

[CabDriver]

On 1/14/2021 at 10:55 AM, Ace-Garageguy said:

VERY nice.

Always good to see someone who understands the necessity for a Panhard bar on a setup like this, and who generally tries to get the greasy bits done right.

What DOES the Panhard bar do that is essential, in this case?  And would you need one if there was a single leaf spring outback instead of the coils?  Inquiring minds want to learn!

Great build @modelfink!  Looking forward to more progress on this one!

[Ace-Garageguy]

10 hours ago, CabDriver said:

What DOES the Panhard bar do that is essential, in this case?  And would you need one if there was a single leaf spring outback instead of the coils?  Inquiring minds want to learn!

A Panhard bar adds additional positive control over the movement side-to-side of the rear axle relative to the chassis, which makes launches more predictable and consistent.

Those long parallel lift bars don't do enough in that regard.

A Watts link would be preferable, as there's zero side "sway" with a Watts setup, but available space required and additional complexity are also considerations, along with a possible unsprung-weight increase.

A single transverse leaf spring suspension also benefits from limiting side-to-side relative movement, as there's a considerable amount of lateral "slop" due to the effects of the shackles and the bending action out at the tips of the springs.

NOTE: The early use of the term "sway bar" did not refer to the "anti-roll bar" as we know it today, but rather to a Panhard bar applied to "tail-dragger" customs with transverse springs, where excessively long shackles had been used to achieve much of the lowered stance. Without a "sway bar" to control side-to-side movement, some of them killed their operators due to unanticipated rear-steering effects having terminal consequences.

Even cars with parallel leaf springs will benefit from a Panhard or Watts setup if precise handling and/or chassis tunability are goals. The '47 Caddy, for instance, was factory-equipped with a Panhard bar.

EDIT: For maximum benefit, a Panhard bar needs to be as long as possible, as it still allows the axle to travel side-to-side somewhat, relative movement being defined by the arc described by the radius the bar-end pivot points impart. Longer bar=longer radius=smaller arc.

Edited January 1 by Ace-Garageguy

[CabDriver]

13 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

A Panhard bar adds additional positive control over the movement side-to-side of the rear axle relative to the chassis, which makes launches more predictable and consistent.

Those long parallel lift bars don't do enough in that regard.

A Watts link would be preferable, as there's zero side "sway" with a Watts setup, but available space required and additional complexity are also considerations, along with a possible unsprung-weight increase.

A single transverse leaf spring suspension also benefits from limiting side-to-side relative movement, as there's a considerable amount of lateral "slop" due to the effects of the shackles and the bending action out at the tips of the springs.

NOTE: The early use of the term "sway bar" did not refer to the "anti-roll bar" as we know it today, but rather to a Panhard bar applied to "tail-dragger" customs with transverse springs, where excessively long shackles had been used to achieve much of the lowered stance. Without a "sway bar" to control side-to-side movement, some of them killed their operators due to unanticipated rear-steering effects having terminal consequences.

Even cars with parallel leaf springs will benefit from a Panhard or Watts setup if precise handling and/or chassis tunability are goals. The '47 Caddy, for instance, was factory-equipped with a Panhard bar.

EDIT: For maximum benefit, a Panhard bar needs to be as long as possible, as it still allows the axle to travel side-to-side somewhat, relative movement being defined by the arc described by the radius the bar-end pivot points impart. Longer bar=longer radius=smaller arc.

Perfect explanation - thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge Bill!

[FoMoCo66]

I love those gassers! Your doing a great job. I look forward to seeing more. 

Here is some more reference photos taken at the goodguys heartland nationals.