GTO

[bauercrew]

Not much here to look at ,,,,first time trying tamiya spray paint this was the gold ,,,,man this stuff looked like BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH it was spotty in some spots like the metalic was coming out ,,,,,and the ts13 clears  ? i sprayed 5 coats on it  and still looked semi gloss,,,,,,so im contributing to operator error,,unfortunately i bout 6 cans of this clear and an assortment of the other colors for up coming projects,,,,,confused about these paints ,,,might be going back to just useing my cheap craft paints with the rustolium 2x clear ,,,thought i would change over to tamiya because i see all these guys and there fabulous paint jobs saying they used tamiya ?,,oh well live and learn,,

[espo]

In the photos the paint color and finish look great. I used this same color of Tamiya paint for a replica build of an El Camino I used to own. Being that it does have a lot of metallic I have found that heating and shaking the paint can until your hand is about to fall off works. Nice looking engine setup. 

[Mike 1017]

You can check out the Don Youst Airbrushing CD. I don't know if he is still selling them. I still use his method today. If not, you can always go to Wanted.

I use an airbrush and de-canted spray can paint sometimes.

That is the iconic GTO color. When I think of a GTO yours is the one that I lust after

Mike

[ea0863]

Bill, the build looks great! As for Tamiya, I have found two little tricks that really help; 1) put the can in a pan of hot-out-of-the-tap water for 5-10 minutes to let the paint warm up, and 2) after your handful of base coats, apply the final coat "wet" by slowing down your passes and maybe getting the spray a little closer to your part.

[Classicgas]

Looks good.

[Slotto]

I think it looks good. I too am willing to try Tamiya paints but after what you are saying, I dont know. My gut says go with what you know.

[Jim B]

Nice looking GTO.  My experience with Tamiya spray paint has been hit or miss, but when it works, it really looks nice.

[1972coronet]

GREAT looking Gee-Tee-O! I love the slicks on the rear! Perfect colour choice, too.

I've been using Tamiya aerosols almost exclusively for more 'an twenty years, and have had only two bad samples:
- A gloss yellow (I've forgotten its name and its part number)
- Gold Leaf 
In the first instance, it was my fault. I'd painted a prepped van body when the outside air temperature was 25 degrees (yes, it does get cold here in southern California!), and the finish looked like a horse's stall.
In the second instance, I let the previously-used (by me) can sit for too many years. Even after I shook the poop out of it, let it sit for 12 hours, then shaking it again, and setting it upside-down, its spray was like stucco. 
Complete trash.

I painted a '75 Olds Cutlass (restored promo) with Tamiya Silver Leaf. While the finish did appear blotchy at first, it did settle itself nicely, to an even shade sans splotches. 
Then I'd sprayed Tamiya Pearl Clear Gloss over the silver (after a few Spring days of gassing-out on me patio), and it was still dead-flat. 
No biggie.
Then the TS-13 was applied (again, after a few days' drying).
Still. Dull.
I let it cure for seven days, then I wet sanded it lightly. I then sprayed Testors Ultra Super Duper Happy Hamburger Fourth of July Gloss over the shebang, and baddah-bing: super glossy.

Please don't give up on Tamiya's aerosols. They're the most forgiving aerosols I've ever used (in 40+ years of building), and will provide a fantastique, quick drying finish 97% of the time with no muss, no fuss.

[AMT68]

Overall, a very good-looking build. The engine bay has excellent detail and the wheels appear to be blackwashed nicely.

I'm guessing the gold paint is TS-21? I just finished painting a '65 Impala and the issue I had when using this color was the metallic particles smearing when I didn't apply the TS-13 in light coats. After stripping the finish the repaint turned out much better with light applications of clear. 

[Plowboy]

Judging by the vertical line mid door, it looks like a reaction with the styrene. What kind of primer did you use? Is this out of the can or did you airbrush it?

I'm actually working on the same kit turning it into a wagon. The styrene on it is weird. It was a nightmare to scribe! Even with light pressure, my scriber would dig in and hang. No problem with the roof section from the Malibu wagon. No issue with the primer either.

[Dragonhawk1066]

Looks good! Surprising about the Tamiya, it's the absolute best spray paint available. As mentioned a few times, put the can in hot tap water for about five minutes before spraying. I also spray primer on everything before painting, it just eliminates any possible reaction the paint can have with the plastic. My only other thought would be maybe the paint got really cold or froze somewhere along the line, that would cause it to come out blotchy and the clear not to be glossy.

[Zippi]

I think it came out nice looking.  I used the Tamiya rattle cans and thought it was a nice paint but I never tried the matallic.  I found out quick (for me anyway) that the TS-13 likes to go on wet or it looks like satin.  I now use nothing but Tamiya Acrylic paint thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner through my airbrush.  I also use the Tamiya Acrylic X-22 Acrylic Clear. 

[happy grumpy]

Great looking model. As for Tamiya paint, I've been using them for over 10 years and before that I was using mostly their acrylics. as others have said, what works best is a lot of small things. The most important step however is to wash all the parts before doing any painting, even a fingerprint might ruin an otherwise nice paint job Heating the can is a good way to start, it sprays thinner and the paint settles better, second , shake, shake , shake especially if it's a metallic color. Some plastics react with paint, so a good primer will guarantee a good base. start with 2 or 3 mist coat , don't worry it will not be shinny, apply 2 or 3 wet coats, for that , a strong light is you friend , you will see the paint leveling off. The last step that really works for me, be patient to apply the clear, I have found that if you hurry to clear , say 3 hours, the clear will eventually dig in the paint and it will slowly loose it's shine. Personally I wait at least a week before I put a first mist coat,then I build up successive coats, the last 2 coats are heavy wet coats. Different people will use different methods, this method works well for me. What I like about Tamiya is that they're easy to use but like any other product, there is a learning curve. Hope this helps.

[slusher]

Nice looking GTO!

[ewetwo]

That is really nice. I like the red walls.

 

[drifterdon]

Nice looking Goat Bill.   This kit is a dream to build.

BTW - Go Big Red!

 

[RickRollerLT1]

Is this the Revell '67 goat! Looks great overall!

The "flatness" you experienced is due to the paint reacting to the plastic. Many kits starting from the "Made in China" era are molded in plastic that is very susceptible to reacting (and sometimes melting) with certain solvents. Using a good enamel/lacquer primer underneath will (in most cases) not react with the plastic surface and allow you to use any type of paint you want over it.

The Tamiya paints are really good, but they tend to be very hot on modern plastics so you must use a good base coat with primer underneath. Also helps to have a flat or gloss black base coat (over the primer) before the metallic finisher coat of your choice. This will make the metallic highlights pop better than just putting the main coat over grey primer or just the bare body alone.

Edited November 7, 2022 by RickRollerLT1

[drifterdon]

20 hours ago, RickRollerLT1 said:

Is this the Revell '67 goat! Looks great overall!

The "flatness" you experienced is due to the paint reacting to the plastic. Many kits starting from the "Made in China" era are molded in plastic that is very susceptible to reacting (and sometimes melting) with certain solvents. Using a good enamel/lacquer primer underneath will (in most cases) not react with the plastic surface and allow you to use any type of paint you want over it.

The Tamiya paints are really good, but they tend to be very hot on modern plastics so you must use a good base coat with primer underneath. Also helps to have a flat or gloss black base coat (over the primer) before the metallic finisher coat of your choice. This will make the metallic highlights pop better than just putting the main coat over grey primer or just the bare body alone.

Pretty sure this is Revell's 1966 GTO Rick.   The MPC 67 is a real pooch of a kit and doesn't have near this detailed of an engine bay.

Edited November 8, 2022 by drifterdon

[RAMBENNA]

Very nicely done, looks great.