Removing cast in wheel lug nuts.

[Brutalform]

They are pretty small, and I’d like to use Pro Tech aluminum hex lugs, and styrene rod for a better visual effect. I’d like to get some input on what is recommended for removing the cast on lugs? Fitting a #11 blade in there can cause damage to the rims. And the Dremel is also a bit too large to remove them without gouging the rim. Anyone preformed this modification? Once they are removed, I can drill them to the appropriate size. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Lathe. 

Another option if the nuts are recessed in rim detail...start your drill with a pinprick in the center of the lugnut, and drill the center out. Then go to a larger bit and machine the outer material off.

Magnification is your friend here.

Working very carefully, it CAN be done with no damage.

 

Edited May 18, 2024 by Ace-Garageguy

[Brutalform]

Great advice Bill. I was thinking about even heating a pin and trying that. I did do a set, for the 62 Catalina, but I never removed the nuts to where I could get a nice flat surface for the drill bit to bite. They look “ok” but can definitely be better. It seems your way will keep it pretty centered. Thank you.

[Bainford]

Sometimes when the lug nut is not too closely shrouded, a blade can be modified to do the trick. I took an Excell rounded blade and clamped the pointed end in a vice, heated it with a pen torch, and bent the blade at an angle. Then I ground away the cutting edge to make the blade less bulky and provide clearance, leaving just about 3/32" of cutting edge at the tip. This allows me to get the blade down into the wheel while keeping the cutting edge level with the surface on which the lug nut is molded. Be sure to clamp the cutting end of the blade in the vice when heating so the jaws can sink the heat and prevent the blade from losing its temper ( no one wants a blade with a bad temper ?). 
This modified blade has since been extremely handy around the bench, perfect for many hard to access trimming and scraping jobs. 

 

[ColonelKrypton]

You might try a 1/32"  ( 0.8mm ) diameter 4 flute end mill 

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07S4FSM4M   

These end mills will cut on their end and may just work for removing the molded in bits although I have never tried them for purpose. You would still need to use a light hand and use care.

I will have to give it a try later on when I am the shop.

cheers, Graham

[Rick L]

If you can find a tube that just fits over the lug nut, turn a micro drill that will slightly clear the inside diameter down the center of the tube with a pin vise and just give it enough turns to start a divot in the center of the lug. This will give you the pinprick starter position that Bill is talking about on center. Once that is done, use the smallest drill you have in your index and drill all the way through, creating your pilot hole. At this point you can chase the hole with the drill side you want.

[Brutalform]

Thanks everyone! All great ideas! I enjoy getting input on the different ways people get their projects done.  I will definitely try them. Like I said I did perform this mod, but, if one lug nut is slightly off, it makes the whole wheel look horrible. Now I have some good suggestions on which way to go about it this time. 

Edited May 18, 2024 by Brutalform

[NOBLNG]

1 hour ago, Brutalform said:

Thanks everyone! All great ideas! I enjoy getting input on the different ways people get their projects done.  I will definitely try them. Like I said I did perform this mod, but, if one lug nut is slightly off, it makes the whole wheel look horrible. Now I have some good suggestions on which way to go about it this time. 

Maybe practice on some junk wheels to see what works best before trying it on the ones you want to use.

[R. Thorne]

You might consider one of these options.

[Brutalform]

4 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Maybe practice on some junk wheels to see what works best before trying it on the ones you want to use.

I already have a couple rims waiting for the practice run. Thanks for the reply!!

[Brutalform]

4 hours ago, R. Thorne said:

You might consider one of these options.

I did consider using some type of nippers, Ron, but figured I’d still have to deal with the limited space problems. 

[58 Impala]

There is a how-to for what you're trying to do on Pro Tech's webpage.

 

[NOBLNG]

51 minutes ago, 58 Impala said:

There is a how-to for what you're trying to do on Pro Tech's webpage.

 

Thanks, here’s a link to it, but it doesn’t actually have any tips on removing the existing studs.

 https://www.protechmodelparts.com/detailingwheels.htm

 

Edited May 19, 2024 by NOBLNG

[espo]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

Thanks, here’s a link to it, but it doesn’t actually have any tips on removing the existing studs.

 https://www.protechmodelparts.com/detailingwheels.htm

 

Like this idea a lot. 

[Brutalform]

2 hours ago, 58 Impala said:

There is a how-to for what you're trying to do on Pro Tech's webpage.

 

That’s what got me wanting to do it. I did do a set for the 62 Catalina rims, but maybe they aren’t the best rims to do, with the lugs being extra tight. They actually look like a small bolt pattern Mopar wheel now. The website says use a #69 drill bit and .025 rod and ProTechs .025 aluminum nuts, which I have many of. Not really showing the best way to remove the old ones though. I just did a set of Ford rear rims for a 64 Comet A/FX I’m working on. We’ll see how these turn out when finished. 

Edited May 19, 2024 by Brutalform

[Brutalform]

Ahh, I see you posted the link David. Yea, pretty much what I just said. Sorry I didn’t see your post first. 

[Ulf]

Strip off the chrome and especially the clear coat, remove with a toothbrush so that all the clear coat is gone, put a little Tamiya black wash so you see the details more clearly, magnifying glasses and yellow glasses are the next step but a black wash increases the contrast.

[bobss396]

Pro Tech has some really cool stuff out. I find myself finding and using more and more of their products, like hood pin plates, t-fittings for carbs, etc.

I like the lug nut ideas. I used some Detail Master fittings on my last stock car, not cheap either at around $1 per lug nut. I used that with small diameter aluminum rod. Either .020" or .025".

[Brutalform]

8 hours ago, bobss396 said:

Pro Tech has some really cool stuff out. I find myself finding and using more and more of their products, like hood pin plates, t-fittings for carbs, etc.

I like the lug nut ideas. I used some Detail Master fittings on my last stock car, not cheap either at around $1 per lug nut. I used that with small diameter aluminum rod. Either .020" or .025".

The ProTech aluminum nuts are not inexpensive either. But I get it, as they are small, and made of aluminum, and the tolerances are right on, so I expect to pay for quality. I was looking into RB Motion, but their website is kinda funky, I had read that they are WAY behind on orders. I might assemble my wheel lugs tonight. I have the studs (rod) tips painted, and the wheels drilled, thanks to some helpful info on here. 

[Ulf]

22 hours ago, Brutalform said:

The ProTech aluminum nuts are not inexpensive either. But I get it, as they are small, and made of aluminum, and the tolerances are right on, so I expect to pay for quality. I was looking into RB Motion, but their website is kinda funky, I had read that they are WAY behind on orders. I might assemble my wheel lugs tonight. I have the studs (rod) tips painted, and the wheels drilled, thanks to some helpful info on here. 

Nice, a fellow drills through a thin or actually two aluminum tubes to hit the center of the bolt, the coarser one fits right over the "bolt" and inside that he has a thinner one to be able to use a really thin drill. On old AMT rims there won't be much left to cut away after that.