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this is a resin printed xb falcon hardtop body i custom made the xb dash the glass,chassis and interior pan and wheels came from my parts boxes the xb falcon was called the great australian road car i painted the body rust-oleum 2x gloss berry pink i used silver sharpie for the trim and stripes and i used a silver side stripe decals from a 71 mustang decal sheet i painted the interior rust-oleum 2x flat grey primer 1975 ford xb falcon gt351.mp4

Great looking interior and wide-body kit.

Technical question Daniel. Do you make the straps before... or after drinking the bottle of wine?

Beautiful looking vehicles and a few interesting ones as well. As for rain, I can understand wanting to roll up the windows or raise a convertible top in a down pour, but don't they use water to clean the vehicle in the first place?

Rarely have you heard a car manufacturer speak so relaxed and openly without filters, YouTube's translation function will help you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMPTxmI2_t0

Gorgeous. Well done.

Absolutely stunning. Well done.

On your exhaust tips. At one time the GTO's had an option of what was often called a splitter exhaust tip. You may have seen them in pictures; they would exit just behind the rear tires and the exhaust pipe would split into two exhaust tips in a row just below the bottom edge of the rear quarter panel. Don't know if that look would even appeal to you but it was a popular option and would often be seen on other mid-sized GM cars at the time.

i got this 66 t-bird promo in the mail today

Steve and Edgar, below is a photo of the decal sheet I'm using. If you look to the very bottom line below the castrol GTX decal you will see the Zoom decal on this car that is above the Edelbrock decal at the front of the fender. Feel free to look over this image of the sheet and see if there is anything else on it that could be the mystery decal. I believe this car probably had hedman headers but there are no header decals on this particular car. I'm starting to think it may be jet way decal. Its right next to Ingersol rand decal on the sheet.

Thanks, this helps a LOT!

Steve, you are right. that zoom you posted there looks like it could easily be the mystery decal, but I know for sure the one above the edelbrock is a zoom too. I wonder if the car had two zoom decals. I believe the decal below the winston cup decal is a small coke decal. Edgar, that also looks like it could be the mystery decal, but I don't think the car had those kind of headers on it. Thanks for your input though. We shall see eventually what it is if someone could just find a real photograph of this car. I even asked Smyle Media on twitter, who has helped me a lot, if he had a photo of it but he said he did not. Strange that the winning car at the 1972 Southern 500 does not have a photograph somewhere to be found on the internet. If it's a correct photo it will have red bumpers.

Will be interesting to see your take on these simple toys, Pierre. But you are right, they can easily pass as 1/24 or 25 bodies....

Very nicely done. cheers, Graham

I think this is going back in the box for a time. I've got someone thats going to teach me the basics of freecad so i think i want to try redoing the dash door panels to fit better once i start learning. I figure having something i'm aiming for with it will help me learn rather than just doing random stuff. I find having a goal helps me to learn better

Nothing wrong with that!

Yessir! I use it, almost exclusively, for straps.

A box of old MPC Chevy square body truck parts I scored at a swap meet back in the ‘90’s for the princely sum of $1.00 turned out to be a treasure trove of enough rare, intact, pre tooling change major components to build what I have mocked up here. Inside I found a ‘78 annual full 2wd chassis with both f&r suspensions, wheel inners and retaining caps, cab and bed with the original bed cover and the grille and bumpers. The box also contained enough major components to build the ‘79 4wd version on the box. Everything needed only an overnight dip in the purple pool to bring them to the condition pictured here. I had to raid an old unbuilt Fall Guy kit for the f&r 4wd springs and axles along with the engine for the 2wd. I’m planning on bashing a current sod buster kit with the Fall Guy GMC cab and bed in the future so it won’t go to waste. So far the only missing parts I’ve had to fabricate are the shocks with new improved lower mounts. I’ve also fabricated rear lower cab corner fillers and one bed bar down tube. The sunroof opening on the 2wd cab had been cut through on two sides so I filled in and sanded them. I’m definitely going to finish these two in the weeks ahead so I’ll post updates as they are completed.

the shocks were a pain but the rest is all one colour so it wasn't all bad. i did the shocks with molotowe and clear tamiya green and it surprisingly worked well but i did put the tamiya on heavy with a tiny brush and only had one chance at it. i dont think it would touch up. take cars when you fit the brakes, with the weighted tyres its easy to get the angles different on each side which might be why theres no actual chassis pic in my post, lol

I added the hood to the rest of the car and it is tight! I may leave as it is instead of trying to loosen it up.

Rustoleum Black Knight Metallic rattle can and Gundam markers, with Apple Barrel brick red and copper paint pen for the seat.

thanks all! the figure is a miniature replica of my old friend Wes that was (I believe) a G-scale cast resin figure that was already painted like James Dean. I painted Wes' features and jacket patches on. He is gone now and his jacket, albeit unwearable and ragged, still hangs in my closet in his memory.

I just use what looks right. usually its 1.5- 2.5mm size i use but i have used other sizes. I prefer evergreen over plastruct for doing tuck n roll but thats probably just because i find it easier to work with. this is a bench seat for a custom ford pick up based on a amt 50 ford bench. its taken 3 full packs to do the bench and i'm at a pack and a half on the door panels but they are only half done and might take another pack. I put a angle on the rear edge of the strips as otherwise the join between top and bottom cushions looks off. I started with the base on these seats but thats only because the back is split and it makes it easier to line up the back. I also start in the centre so it builds up evenly, and i leave them a touch longer to help with sticking the edges down and trim after its all set. on this seat i'm adding t'n'r around the edges too but you could use tiny rod for piping (which i'm doing too but havent dont yet) I also give it a good 240 sand after as the real thing is rarely half round, and my first primer is filler primer but thats just for the inevitable gaps between the strips and only needs a light dusting.

Just slight withdrawal symptoms! 😉

I'm almost certain that the original run had that tree plated. Even looking at that tree parts, it holds parts which would customarily be plated. Yes, there weren't many plated (or polisher aluminum or stainless steel parts on 1:1 Fiero, and the wheels were aluminum mags, but having those parts plated makes painting them easier. The wheel faces were very shiny bare turned aluminum with a clear coat, while all the recessed areas were black. On a plated model wheel you just spray the entire wheel black (like Testors flat black), and right after the paint is dry you wipe the rim's surface with a paper towel or a piece of rag moistened with paint thinner. That will remove the paint from the plated surface, leaving rest of the wheel black (just like the 1:1 rims). Nice and easy. If you find the plating too shiny, you can spray it with a flat clear. If they are ribbed, the same can be done for rocker arm covers. If those items are unpainted plastic, they have to be dealt with other, not as easy ways.