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Everything posted by DiscoRover007

  1. Duplicolor is incredibly sensitive to humidity. If you can let the paint flash in the sun or by a near by lamp that can help alleviate the problem. Though you risk getting dust in the paint.
  2. I completely understood what you meant. That video keeps getting shared on here but I'm not really understanding the controversy. You can't actually sand metallic/pearl coats and bring back the depth with clear coat. You have to respray the last coat as you sprayed and live with that result before clear coating. You can sand your clear coat and respray that.
  3. More releases that no one cares about yawn
  4. Wow so simple yet genius. This could be used for so many kits!
  5. No don't sand the coat before clear. However, do sand the coat before your last wet base coat. This gives you a deeper finish and if you are using metallic, lets the flakes settle on a smoother surface and look as finely grained as possible.
  6. Looks great! I'm curious, what paint did you use on the second green car? Looks like it would suit the Tamiya Xj220 quite well.
  7. Excellent job! I'd keep that in a nice display case. Without clear its as risk for scratches and chipping.
  8. Beautiful! I actually just thought about making one in this color the other day. Outstanding job.
  9. Here is NC Duplicolor is a gamble every day. Pretty much have to let it dry in the sun to avoid fogging.
  10. Nice. I hope we can get them more easily in the US as well. I've always wanted to give these a shot.
  11. Finally got my Tamiya MX-5 RF painted. This was TS-95 Pure Metallic Red over Tamiya Grey Primer, then coated with Tamiya Clear Red then Splash Paints 2k clear to finish it. I was trying to match the Mazda Soul Crystal Red paint application. Very pleased with the results.
  12. It's a good general rule but its not so cut and dry anymore. Certain lacquers aren't as hot like they used to be. Even Testors One Coat Lacquer clear could be sprayed on their enamel lines.
  13. Hey gents so I'm trying to simulate the famous XJ220 Green color for one of my kits. I actually found a good combo to use. Tamiya TS-Dark Blue as a base coat, then Duplicolor Emerald Green Pearl over top of that. However I am currently out of TS Dark blue. I was wondering if anyone here has tried Krylon or Rustoleum underneath Duplicolor paints and if it caused any problems? It would be nice if Tamiya came out with a new Green Metallic.
  14. I got the roadster version. Its a nice kit, hood fit is bad. But If you can get some baby magnets in there I think it would fix it. Just FYI for everyone that buys one. Despite your instinct to glue and putty the bumpers to the body and hood, they are actually separate pieces on the real car. I dug through many google photos to confirm this. They are separate pieces with fine panel lines.
  15. Vallejo Air Black is the best airbrush ready acrylic semi gloss black in my experience. Tamiya acrylic is also good but just make sure you stir the paint properly.
  16. Nice details. Curious as to what paints you're using and washes?
  17. Oof yeah. I'm pretty excited for the Meng kit but that rear window is an eye sore. I wonder if they based it off a particular prototype? Otherwise some sanding and puttying would be needed to round off those corners.
  18. I had this same dilemma months ago and ended up using Tamiya Light Metallic Blue. Its pretty close to Marina Blue. Nassau blue is a nice color and a factory GM code. However it is noticeably different than Marina blue and is not present on 1967 and onward corvettes. Nassau has more of a frost to it, where as Marina is more "blue".
  19. Its a few things but I think one reason is because it really takes a lot of time and skill building to become decent at it. It's so easy to make mistakes and become dissatisfied with the results.
  20. I'd use Tamiya Mica blue or Testors Nassau blue overcoated with Tamiya Clear blue
  21. I use Tamiya thin cement as well as CA glue (Bob Industries)
  22. Big fan of the original viper. I had this kit once but was turned off by the fact that mine didn't have any headlight housings inside the lens. I find that neither Revell or AMT did the headlights realistically at all. I hope maybe one day we can get a real nice 1/24 version from Tamiya or Aoshima.
  23. If you're only looking to touch it up. I wonder if you can use a lacquer clear? Or will that not blend in to the 2k clear?
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