Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

DiscoRover007

Members
  • Posts

    402
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DiscoRover007

  1. Beautiful! I actually just thought about making one in this color the other day. Outstanding job.
  2. Here is NC Duplicolor is a gamble every day. Pretty much have to let it dry in the sun to avoid fogging.
  3. Nice. I hope we can get them more easily in the US as well. I've always wanted to give these a shot.
  4. Finally got my Tamiya MX-5 RF painted. This was TS-95 Pure Metallic Red over Tamiya Grey Primer, then coated with Tamiya Clear Red then Splash Paints 2k clear to finish it. I was trying to match the Mazda Soul Crystal Red paint application. Very pleased with the results.
  5. It's a good general rule but its not so cut and dry anymore. Certain lacquers aren't as hot like they used to be. Even Testors One Coat Lacquer clear could be sprayed on their enamel lines.
  6. Hey gents so I'm trying to simulate the famous XJ220 Green color for one of my kits. I actually found a good combo to use. Tamiya TS-Dark Blue as a base coat, then Duplicolor Emerald Green Pearl over top of that. However I am currently out of TS Dark blue. I was wondering if anyone here has tried Krylon or Rustoleum underneath Duplicolor paints and if it caused any problems? It would be nice if Tamiya came out with a new Green Metallic.
  7. I got the roadster version. Its a nice kit, hood fit is bad. But If you can get some baby magnets in there I think it would fix it. Just FYI for everyone that buys one. Despite your instinct to glue and putty the bumpers to the body and hood, they are actually separate pieces on the real car. I dug through many google photos to confirm this. They are separate pieces with fine panel lines.
  8. Vallejo Air Black is the best airbrush ready acrylic semi gloss black in my experience. Tamiya acrylic is also good but just make sure you stir the paint properly.
  9. Nice details. Curious as to what paints you're using and washes?
  10. Oof yeah. I'm pretty excited for the Meng kit but that rear window is an eye sore. I wonder if they based it off a particular prototype? Otherwise some sanding and puttying would be needed to round off those corners.
  11. I had this same dilemma months ago and ended up using Tamiya Light Metallic Blue. Its pretty close to Marina Blue. Nassau blue is a nice color and a factory GM code. However it is noticeably different than Marina blue and is not present on 1967 and onward corvettes. Nassau has more of a frost to it, where as Marina is more "blue".
  12. Its a few things but I think one reason is because it really takes a lot of time and skill building to become decent at it. It's so easy to make mistakes and become dissatisfied with the results.
  13. I'd use Tamiya Mica blue or Testors Nassau blue overcoated with Tamiya Clear blue
  14. I use Tamiya thin cement as well as CA glue (Bob Industries)
  15. Big fan of the original viper. I had this kit once but was turned off by the fact that mine didn't have any headlight housings inside the lens. I find that neither Revell or AMT did the headlights realistically at all. I hope maybe one day we can get a real nice 1/24 version from Tamiya or Aoshima.
  16. If you're only looking to touch it up. I wonder if you can use a lacquer clear? Or will that not blend in to the 2k clear?
  17. Whats the curing time? Typically enamels are slow drying and soft compared to lacquer.
  18. I've read about those too and found those conclusions about a closed ventilation system. I've also seen many forum threads saying the organic filters do protect from isocyanates but 3m can't market them that way as a means to cover their ass. To be completely honest I'd like to see some studies on hobbyists and their exposures to paints, lacquer, enamel , 2k, and the like. I've always worn a respirator unless I was airbrushing small amounts of acrylic paint. But even still, a hardcore model car enthusiast may very well put themselves at risk for cancer if they don't take precautions. Maybe not as much as a smoker but I could definitely see it. I do appreciate everyone's concern and it is a nice dose of reality. Whats interesting is that a lot of the popular youtube modeler's are using 2k clear like its water. Yet there is no widespread info on using it safely. As long as I can use it within a reasonable amount of safety, given the amount I'm spraying, which is far smaller than a real 1:1 car I would like to continue using it. But I really do appreciate the discussion hear and am open to changing my mind on it.
  19. You could use a clear coat or dip it in future floor wax like GLMAA1 suggests. Then you could add a wash and some weathering to really make it pop
  20. I've avoided using 2k for a long time for the concerns you all have voiced but I decided to give it another shot and and make it as safe as I can. I sprayed a 67 Corvette today and the 2k clear went on beautifully with my ps 290. I wanted to revisit 2k when I had a better airbrush because Ive grown so tired of having perfect lacquer finishes ruined by small accidents and paint chipping. It's caused me much grief and stalled many projects. 2k is an extremely hard finish that is sure to last. This was the mask I purchased in addition to the 3m p100 cartridges. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MW3NPZV?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
  21. Thanks for looking into that for me. I actually talked to Sam at Splash Paints and he pointed me to the p100 cartridges for 3m masks. I got one with a full face shield as well on Amazon. Maybe overkill but I know that if i use goggles and respirator separately that I'll misplace one or the other often lol.
  22. Hey guys I'm looking to spray some kits with 2k clear and I was wondering what kind of respirator everyone uses for that? I know 2k can be particularly dangerous. I almost bought the 3M A1P2 respirator but I wasn't certain this would be enough. I'll be spraying outside in my garage with a spray booth. No fans running on the booth however.
×
×
  • Create New...