dshue76

Nice! One of my all time favorite kits. I like the paint scheme and it flows perfect from the truck to the trailer. I've done quite a few in all kinds of different configurations. Do you happen to remember what kit the cab spoiler came from, was it the 454 SS or one of the AMT F-150's? I am pretty sure I have one of those somewhere and may try to find it for a future F-350 build. I've got the 38' 5th wheel trailer and every time I think I am ready to paint the exterior I find more details to add. The square add on windows from van kits make great roof vents for these.

Get rid of petroleum in favor of Hydrogen and the world will fight over the catalysts needed to produce Hydrogen gas. Fact. Nice looking but I think the weight of wheel covers diminishes any aero return. Any excess mass in the rotating weight has a negative effect on efficiency.

Probably 15. Some I've lost interest in, some I'm waiting for ideas on a direction, some I am waiting on parts for, some just need final touches, and some I am working on. I tend to start "simple" projects like an out of the box build with little or no extra detailing, just something easy to break the builders block. And then I change direction and start adding custom scratch built accessories or giving it more detail or weathering. At this point it becomes just another build stuck in builders block.

The 97 F150 and F250 of that body style had the same style IFS as GM trucks and suv's of the late 80's and 90's. I used to drive a 97 F250 for work that had this setup and 7 lug wheels.

I don't mind driving in Pittsburgh but I absolutely hate that bridge. I used to have to drive windowless Chevy work vans with their itsy bitsy passenger car mirrors over that thing. Pretty much less visability than most class 8 trucks. You can't win on that bridge. Every time you clear your self in the mirror to change lanes a dippshit flies in from two lanes away to take the spot. I figured out the safetst and most efficient way to use that bridge is to NOT use blinkers. As soon as you put a blinker on someone else will beat you to the spot, it's kinda like the how dare you pass me types, you know the ones, they are content to drive 5 mph under the speed limit until you pass them, then they get racey... And the meme would have been better if it showed the true amount of traffic, like at 7 am or 4 pm.

Stopped at Ollies to see what fishing tackle they had and came away with another of these. It's going to become a dump truck I think.

The hood for my Moebius 71 Ford Ranger was badly warped, When sitting on a flat surface ONE corner would sit about 1/2" off of the surface. It was fixable with a hair drier and some cold water. Warping is a very common defect of Moebius kits.

Yes it is the reissue. This one was molded in red and had a lot of flash. Also the rear sits really high if built per instructions. On this build the rear axle is touching the frame and is still higher than I wanted... If I ever build another I will try to raise the front ride height a little.

This car always made me feel nauseous. T buckets were never my thing but the Uncertain T was just plain ugly and as disproportionate as a car could be built. I see nothing "innovative for it's time" about that car. And it was "Highly awarded" at the time in the same class as the Ala Kart. None are designs that could stand the test of time. None will be bought and sold at news making prices. One off customs can be cool but they have a shelf life, just like the pink pro street craze of the 90's. He can't remember what he did with the original rear wheels and tires or if he or someone else had the car repainted in a color he didn't like... I don't buy his story at all. I know a person that lives in a fantasy world and talks exactly the way he does. Of his entire story the only part I believe is that he designed the car and mocked up the chassis and scrounged for some parts, otherwise someone else built it and it cost him $15,000 then in 1967 he found out that nobody would pay $7000 for it. I just wonder if it even still exists in it's original form or if that hideous body was replaced with something nicer. He won't come out and say whether he sold, gave or loaned the car to his friend. But has threatened to sue the friend to get the car. I'm also starting to wonder if he's the reason the kit was given the ax. How common was it for Monogram to scrap tooling? I know of a few kits that haven't been released in decades but I've never heard of them being scrapped I do wish him luck but if he can't afford to move to the main land then there is no way he'll pull of injection molding this kit from scratch in house, let alone building any type of 1:1 hot rod of any decent quality butt ugly or not.

The piece the needle seats in is called a spray tip, The part that goes on over that is the air cap. Use Harrys method for determining needle size then use a similar method to determine spray tip size. Stand all 3 on end side by side and take a nice close up picture of the holes, I'll bet that will show you the difference. An alternative is to use pin drills to gauge the hole size. Or use 1 needle and test in each, it will stick out farther on the largest tip and less on the smaller tip. I would think all manufacturers mark them some how. My Paasche has all parts marked with 1, 2 or 3 grooves. once you get them sorted you could use a file to mark them permanently. .2mm parts would get 1 groove, .3mm parts would get 2 grooves and .5mm parts would get 3 grooves.

How certain are you that the plastic was clean? I've never had a problem with Duplicolor lifting or being fragile. Is the primer lifting as well? One tip is you must have a very sharp blade when you trim the applied BMF so that you do not cut through the paint, but you still seem to have a problem with paint adhesion. One option is to spray the entire panel with a gloss clear lacquer to try to consolidate the entire surface. You can always go back and add a flat or semigloss clear after the BMF.

It depends on the strength needed in the joint. I almost always use ca glue to glue two pe parts together. But for attaching to the body I like to use an adhesive that will smooth itself and blend with the paint job. In those cases I like to use the clear that was sprayed on the body, or matches the paint sheen. But I sometimes use clear drying waterbased glues.

I've had this happen with Testors Acrylic paints. They are more like a latex paint and don't stick well at all.

What paint did you use, and did you wash the parts before paint?

Funny thing. I have found out that Rustoleum in fact makes Testors enamels...

I'm not sure about the last body style but the current Super Duty trucks would mount the spare with the center down. Less cranking on the winch and if it were mounted the other way I don't think the winch would be able to pull it tight. So a front wheel would be more accurate.

I'll keep an eye out to see this finished. I'm not a mini van fan but the way you are doing it is right up my alley. I may try to find one to do something similar with. Maybe as a messenger service van.

Well done. Every part of it looks great! I never noticed the split side door glass on the 1:1 trucks. After I saw that detail on your build I had to google it. If I were doing that build I would have missed it. I've seen quite a few of these in 1:1 and I never ever noticed that.

That truck really is a survivor. In my area it's not common to see such a gently used farm truck. Have fun with it! I think that truck could handle the interstates fine, But your ears would suffer with that muffler! I used to run my old 74 Chevy with the 250 straight six and 3 speed on the column at 75mph and it didn't mind a bit.

I've had that issue once and thought it was just a glitch in the board. PC's and laptops work the same and have the same operating systems. It seems like every glitch likes to pick one user and sink its teeth in. I wonder if clearing your cache would help you? The thing that is really annoying is when you accidentally quote a post you have to delete the script of the quote then make a post or else anytime you try to post inn that topic the quote comes back. This is the only board of the many that I am or was a member of that has that little quirk.

Tom I don't think it's the red bleeding through as much as it is the reaction the clear had with the paint under it allowing the base material to affect the final color. If all of the base material would have been the same you probably wouldn't have noticed the color difference since clear coats seem to make some finished colors appear darker than the base color. That really sucks with all the time in getting the trim painted cleanly and making the decals only to have something go wrong at the end. But the difference in color on the side glass wouldn't be a deal stopper for me. To me It kind of looks right as if a fleet service did the paint over the glass and used a touch up paint that wasn't a perfect match or faded.

Very Nice. The color combo fits the truck perfectly.

Thanks. I really should have done that from the start, it was planned but one they were blue I thought they looked ok and then I couldn't make up my mind. But once I posted the pics I really started having a change of heart lol. I just couldn't paint the chassis black, even though all reference pics show these painted black. I have a bad habit of painting all truck chassis' black and this was the build that I decided would break that habit...

Thanks guys. At some point I am going to build the AMT Ford Phantom van as a contractors van and I'm going to open the rear and side cargo doors on it and do some interior detailing and give it some ladder racks.

I liked the original color scheme but I like this better. Did you make a complete new exhaust? If you did can you share any pics? I'm still undecided on what I'm going to do with mine. I'm leaning towards just making a tail pipe an tip that looks the part. I'm not familiar at all with the exhaust on the Powerstroke trucks, my 1:1 is a V10 and I can tell you Meng got the V10 exhaust pretty much right...