Dave G.

MM Metalizer has a pretty strong odor but it doesn't linger long and it dries fast. You've got to keep them stirred up and keep the lid on the bottles as much as you can because they evaporate quickly. When airbrushing, swish the cup around often so the metal doesn't settle.

I mostly use MM Metalizer paints, especially for aluminum and such. But I went to Molotow for chrome. If you're looking for chrome I think it's Molotow or Alklad will be the winners there. But the MM Metalizer buffing series is awesome for other raw metal looks. When you buff them you get the specular inner tones and such of real metals imo. I use the aluminum plate buffing color a lot. You know what's tough to find is a really good copper, you would think it should be easy. well I'm still looking !! And still just going back to plain old Testors enamel for copper. Flory did a review of the AK extreme metal and I think he concluded their Stainless steel was a good stand in for chrome, better than the AK chrome . And he liked several others as well.

I think it was Genesis Models who did a review on these ( available to see at youtube and also Flory models). He went in with low expectations but by the end of the review was quite pleased to say they seemed to work well. I don't own any myself though.

I spray craft paints for something like that, mix my own colors from the many to choose from. But also Vallejo Model Airs sprays easy. Really, just matte craft paint should work fine. You could pre wash the seam areas with a darker color first if you're into washes. Course this assumes airbrushing ( I should have mentioned that first I guess).

I usually use acrylic artist paint, Liquitex to be more exact. And I make almost a wash out of it thinned with a combo of there airbrush medium and some thinner I make up for acrylic paints. Liquitex sticks well to plastic and chrome is why. But I've also used craft paint made into a wash as well, in fact the most recent build of a 39 Ford I used that on it ( licorice black). Looks good, don't know how it will hold up compared to the artist paint though.

I've been painting my white wall tires but recently tried Stynylrez white primer as the paint and liked the results, just it took two coats is all. Then I was watching some CCCP videos ( the guy builds great stock vehicles generally just from kit parts with an eye for detail and good paint techniques) and in one video series he showed how he makes white walls from paper. And he makes them look awesome, I found the circle cutter he uses at amazon but I have not bought one nor tried his technique yet. Don't know if I ever will, just thought I'd mention it. You can probably find the video series at youtube. His videos are always worth a look see if you're into older model cars..

What you describe above is why I said on something with large chrome areas like a 50's era car I'd probably try spraying the Molotow. In the videos I've seen where people sprayed it it looked really good. Course then you gotta get it out of the pen or buy the refill .

Well the clip would work for a relatively modern hot rod or street rod conversion. Back in the day it might more likely been fit in the original rails. So just depends on the rendition you are after. For me, you got my juices churning for a dropped axle and Oldmobile engine. The Olds I have from my latest AMT 39/40 Ford sedan build ( I built it stock with the flathead Ford) which has headers that I'm fairly sure with a little heat could be warped around to fit one way or another. Just a thought.

I've seen light primers carry the shade casts of color variation on styrene and imagine the same is true with resin. The effect can come through as almost a glow from the back side of the parts, the parts aren't truly 100% opaque. So my work around is to prime inside and out with dark primer like charcoal grey or black. Then reprime the front where I want white paint or other light color for that matter, in white or platinum primer before putting down the base coat. Especially important to get back to white with white pearl base coats that are not opaque either. You have to get a barrier coat down to block what I call the lamp shade effect. Just my take on it without knowing more information. But you might try what I'm suggesting. And what ever you do, do it to everything.

Actually if you haven't bought the kit yet you might want to consider the AMT 53 ford pickup. That comes with optional v8 engine , wheels, grill etc. You wouldn't need to think about adapting motor mounts, cutting down or lengthening the drive shaft and things like that. I believe the 50 Chevy only has the inline 6 engine, so any V8 you get to put in will need some adapting.

Yes a test is the way to go and come to your own conclusion !!

Well without the clear Alclad can be rather fragile. I don't know that it's any less fragile than Molotow but Molotow is easy to touch up. And a good touch up for the kit chrome, I wouldn't say the same for alclad but anyone is free to correct me.

I think if I was going to do the chrome laden nose of a 50's car I would spray it. They say the Molotow chrome sprayed results are even better than from the pen. But then again I guess if you go to the trouble of getting Molotow into an airbrush then you might at that point consider the Alclad. Just depends which look you prefer, either can do a good job.... I haven't cleared my Molotow chrome so can't comment on that. I know it takes very little sealer on MM Metalizer to just cover it and any more and you might as well forget the metal look. You can wreck the look real easy clear coating, with Molotow I'd rather have to put on another coat than risk it personally. Best I can say.

Yes, mine are laying down and they get a periodic shake when not in use. Once I get past the chrome on a particular build it may be weeks before I do chrome again ( I'm an unbelievably slow build, my speedy build days were a very long time ago), so once a week or so I just shake them up. Hopefully this idea at least helps the cause.

Don't know if this is going to help but while my Molotows are idle I have them rolled up tight in a plastic sandwich bag. My thought is it will at least be an air restricted environment if not air tight.

I've just been leaving them around any old way and shake them up now and then. I just started with Molotow though ( been using Metalizer) and have to say the results were reasonably impressive. In some spots it was silvery till turned to a different light direction and then for some things you may want a chrome trim look, it was almost too chrome. Convenient for now. I'd try spraying it though, I haven't found the perfect chrome yet, sprayed. I'd like to build a 59 Galaxy if I ever find one and that whole lower section of the rear quarter is chrome as I recall. A perfect candidate to be sprayed. I generally used the buffing Metalizers in the past for something like that. So, well it's a dream right now cause I don't have the Galaxy yet but I have 2mm Molotow lol. Most of my painted chrome is windows and side molding etc, common stuff.

No I haven't tried that espo. Why do you think the coupe fenders might be better ? I've built several of each over the years but too, several were cut down into modified circle track cars. I just assumed the two fender sets were the same. My favorite in stock or street and strip car is the sedan by a fair margin over the coupe though. I like both the 39 and 40 versions of each but the 39 has a couple of elements that are incorrect ( the dash is wrong for a 39 but correct for the 40 and 39 wiper blades were mounted at the top of the windshield not along the cowl. And the 39 had a floor shift so the column shift is incorrect in the kit, though they do give you a chrome stick for the floor that needs paint). This last one I built as a 39, copying one I built as a kid in dark green and tan interior. I think if I built a coupe right now it would be the Revell/Monogram 40 standard built bone stock maybe in dark blue, although black might be appealing... By the way, the 40 hood fits the sedan body cowl better than the 39 hood does too. But it's incorrect out front in both profile for a 39 and to fit the 39 grill.

If I'm correct and this kit is the same as my 39/40 kit was then your next fit problem will be the 39 hood to cowl. Might as well check that now. I never got mine 100% there but it is acceptable for my needs. I did mine as part of a build off with another guy from the forum building the same kit as a 39 and his 39 hood was the same as mine. I'd like to eventually build another one too and refine a couple of points a bit further .

Here is a video or url, whichever loads: https://youtu.be/_d1VEx2pkVA

Then I wonder if the right side is in a pinch somehow and lifting the left side off. If the body is in contact with the running board though, then it's the fenders as the post above this one indicates.

I know you said the interior clears ok but did you try fitting the body to the fenders before the interior tub went in ? It really looks like the whole left side is sitting up off the fender assembly.

You don't want to listen to me on that topic because I'm nuts lol, and go after the offending spot with a charcoal grill lighter or candle. You might want to be more conservative and follow someone else's lead there, some folks like a hot water soak for instance.. I've never had much luck with a hair dryer, maybe someone else has. I've just been using an actual flame for 60 years but I can't say I never wrecked anything either. I wonder if you set those fenders on the frame if you can see where they are tweaked. Assuming it's them and not the body ( but it looks like the fenders from the photos).

Oops, I think it says to remove that cross support between the rear fenders. Pretty sure I removed it and had no trouble with the fit. Edit: Well, it's not in the instructions, it may have been embossed on the piece itself unless I'm thinking of another kit lol !

I think the 39/40 gasser kit built stock shares the same body/fender parts. I just built one as a 39 back in Sept and it went together well. To me from the photos, it appears your fender assembly is warped. Mine fit well enough that I just literally tacked the assemblies together with a few well placed drops of glue in case I want to pop it apart at a later date for what ever reason. When I was a kid I cann't tell you how many of these sedan kits I built, always a fan lol ! But I remember one or two not quite as bad as yours but similar. I just glued it and weighted it till dry, as well as I can recall. As long as the seam lines mated I was happy, then sliced any openings for the bumper brackets as needed. They always turned out acceptable to me. A couple I turned into stock cars though, so those got all cut up and cut down anyway, very cool looking I might add, because you expect to see coupes done up as stock cars.. Just sayin. Yours might be warped enough you may need to get a little heat involved.

On your acrylic comment, you would get along with Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner, it pretty much acts like solvent paints but cleans up like acrylics. It's really a hybrid of some kind, more like lacquer or enamel than water based acrylic. Along the way sometime grab a bottle and give it a try, you will see what I mean for yourself. However for N scale you're on the right track, you will need lacquer thinner if you find it needs to be thinner after decanting. And on decanting, give the paint a few minutes to out gas propellant before spraying.