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gman

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Everything posted by gman

  1. Are you going to have a car on your visit? If so, you could hit all three shops within about an hour's drive (not including perusing) if you ran a circuit one-way 😆 1) Imperial Hobbies for sheer number of automotive kits (domestic and Japanese) 2) Burnaby Hobbies for a good selection of unique, hard to get newer kits (mostly domestic, a few Japanese) 3) Magic Box Hobbies for a decent number of desirable kits (depending on what your tastes are) We used to have 6-7 really good hobby shops in the Lower Mainland decades ago, but times for the industry have been tough. I am happy at least these three are hanging in there.
  2. There is Imperial Hobbies near YVR airport- highly recommended. While their website is primarily focused on gaming and fantasy models, they do have a pretty extensive selection of automotive kits, details, parts packs and paints/adhesives. If you venture northeast from Richmond, Burnaby Hobbies is pretty great also. There is Magic Box Hobbies on the west side of Vancouver, also recommended.
  3. I forgot about the Monogram kit- similar era, better chrome QC (provided 1/24th is good for you).
  4. The Revell "Hot Rod" series '29 Ford from 1986 came with a set. The caveat with these is the chrome was usually horrible, with lots of flash on most parts- not a banner period for Revell.
  5. Clear label paper may result in more thickness and a defined edge to your graphics. One advantage to using waterslide decal paper (provided it is compatible with your colour scheme and printer) is a better scale thickness. There are clear and white decal sheets available for both inkjet and laser printers, and the one to use (if you go that way) will depend on how opaque your printed colours are, and whether you need to incorporate white into the graphic. Neither printer type will print white. While there are some expensive and somewhat obsolete printers that do print white, along with metallics etc, if you plan to print your own graphics without that type of equipment water slide decal film will be the usual route. You can experiment with your label paper and see how that turns out for you, but you'll likely want to coat overtop of your graphics with a fixative spray or clear coat if you are using an inkjet printer, so the printed graphics don't wipe off the media when applying or handling.
  6. That looks to be some very fine detail- shaping up very nicely.
  7. That one looks downright angry! I've always loved your builds Tim, dating back to Modeler's Corner in Street Rodder (before I discovered that "other" magazine).
  8. Another approach "on the cheap" using hobby paints and some pearl pigment (available at chains like Michaels and Hobby Lobby) with an airbrush would be to spray a black base coat, and follow it up with several coats of clear red with pearl pigment mixed in. https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-1-black/ https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-52-clear-red/ https://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex Burying the pearl coats under some more clear red and clear top coat over the black should give you that black cherry effect. A more dramatic effect would be to use some House of Kolor paints (available in smaller airbrush quantities through online vendors). Black Cherry Bomb or Candy Brandywine over a black base would get you a few different versions of that colour. https://tcpglobal.com/pages/brand-house-of-kolor?gclid=CjwKCAjw_b6WBhAQEiwAp4HyIOfclWzXkWtVfXrXckxBk2dLMhf4VOXvV_9-n2ByaaqVQIN4dHw9lxoCmFMQAvD_BwE
  9. Those would be my thoughts- apply the decal, and then mist coats of clear satin paint of your choice over it from a distance to build up texture, and provide a realistic vinyl top semi-gloss textured sheen
  10. http://www.policecarmodels.com/chfide.html
  11. Whoah! That is so nice. Great job on this one.
  12. That looks really great so far. Tell us more about your paint
  13. Do you have sprue from the kit you could do some primer/colour tests on? I suspect if the primer doesn't react with the molded colour of the plastic, then the colour coats won't either (provided you aren't using a really "hot" thinner with your airbrushed colour coats, or are spraying really wet coats). Generally. silver base coats offer some protection from bleed through, so a coat of silver under the light grey may be a good insurance policy if you do get a reaction.
  14. I mixed Testors enamels and Humbrol tin paint many years ago (early 80's), in trying to come up with a seafoam shade of green for a '30 Ford woody model out of paints I had on-hand. I thinned the mixture with Testors airbrush thinner and shot it through the airbrush- on the model body it came out pretty good, dried nice and shiny, but when prepping to spray some additional parts not even 10 minutes later the paint remaining in the jar congealed in both the jar and the airbrush. In a nutshell, a science experiment gone wrong. I believe I had to toss the airbrush pickup tube and jar, as even lacquer thinner wouldn't break down the curdled sludge that remained. I was operating under the assumption that both Testors and Humbrol were enamels, but found there was definitely some difference in chemistry between the two. If I had a do-over, I would have tried to stay within the same paint brand and type to come up with the shade I was looking for, and would have used cheap hardware store lacquer thinner to get the paint thin enough to spray through the airbrush. You can use a recommended thinner with enamels and get decent results, but a little bit of lacquer thinner added to the mix seems to improve flow and drying qualities when airbrushing. If you feel the need to mix Testors and Humbrol, I would suggest mixing up a small batch of colour and doing a test spray, and watch for any adverse reactions in the colour cup/jar (and be prepared to act quickly if things curdle).
  15. The OHC 6 engine came in the MPC (and later AMT) 69 Pontiac Firebird kits. Pretty common kit, though mine is long gone. Good luck in your search.
  16. Looking great so far (as always). Looking forward to seeing your build come together.
  17. That is a beautiful pair of AMCs. Being familiar with the 1:1s, you have done a great job on these.
  18. https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/products/5605-sierra-gold-met
  19. That looks similar to a 50's General Motors shade- Sierra Gold https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?type=sample&ditzler=21261&syear=1956&smanuf=GM&smodel=Chevrolet&sname=Sierra Gold&name=chevroletbelair1956sierragold If that is close, an online vendor who offers authentic shades in airbrush jars may be a solution.
  20. Thread from 2012, so no guarantees it is still available.
  21. It might be tough to find in scale. There are people who part out vintage JoHan kits on eBay, and a Rambler (American Motors) 232 cubic inch inline 6 from the mid-60s is the engine on which the ones in straight 6 powered Jeeps (258 cubic inches to 4.0L) was based. While some of the accessories, intake and exhaust on later Jeeps differs, the AMC mid-60's block is the same basic casting in use until 2006.
  22. I am really liking the traditional frame setup and engine so far. What are you planning for the K-member? As much as I love these Revell deuces, one thing that has always bothered me was the incorrect rear wheel well portions (on the roadster and 5 window versions of the kit). I tried to scratch up some modified masters to cast more correct replacements years ago, but never crossed the finish line. ^^ a not-so-visible body line Revell missed on a steel '32 roadster and 5 window body, likely more correct for a fibreglass body I suppose with 3D printing (which I really have to get into one day), replicating this body panel becomes less of a challenge.
  23. Shave them off, drill tiny holes. Stretch some sprue to a little thinner than the holes you have drilled, doming the cut ends in an open flame. Slip the stretched sprue into the holes (dome side on top) and secure with a drop of liquid cement from the underside.
  24. Judging by the photo, I would have to agree- very nice revisions.
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