Even though it's been said a bunch of times here, this is fantastic work! Brilliant engineering and scratch building followed by "dead on" paint and weathering. Easily one of my favorite builds I have seen on this site! -Larry
You are absolutely right that there is some leeway in scale with motor internals, weight, etc. I think the point of most of the comments above is it is noticeable if the model is a C/G car with a naturally aspirated small block Chevy and has an A/GS designation on it.
The Monogram 1/12 '67 Corvette is a 427 tri-carb motor. Has options for stock and a single 4bbl carb, tube headers and Moroso valve covers for the drag version. Probably cheaper to buy a whole '67 kit than get a 3d printed motor. I had planned to do a '69 Yenko Camaro a few years ago and was going to swap the 427 in the '67 Corvette into the Camaro and the 302 Z28 motor into the Corvette.
Unbuilt models are just parts until you do something with them. Original box art and old stuff is cool, but IMHO, if it's too "valuable" to build sell it while you can and buy more models that you will build!
I have seen plenty of drag models that are clearly classed wrong. For me, I try to follow the NHRA/AHRA rule books for specific years on my builds. I guess it is in the same vain as do you want correct plug wire order? Do you want authentic colors? Equipment? Everyone builds for different reasons, so I guess it wouldn't bother a lot of people. However, I tend to recognize it when it is wrong and I think there are quite a number of drag builders who woud also.
The biggest thing for me about 1/18 diecast, or any scale for that matter, is the problem with "metal fatigue". AKA the tin worm. I have had a LOT of 1/18 diecast from low line store bought Maisto models to expensive items from Carousel, AutoArt, Precision Miniatures, GMP, etc. Regardless of brand, you can have a model that will literally fall apart, or at the very least, get a paint "rash". This is particularly prevalent with the Ertl 'American Muscle" models. It does not discriminate by cost however and I have seen GMP and other high end models with similar problems. So, I have had a good number, about 5 to 10% of my entire collection of cars (collection in the hundreds) that have various degree of damage through no fault of my own. They were always stored indoors in a dry environment. There is also no guarantee that the others won't have a problem over time. In contrast, I have plastic kits that are from the late 50's and early 60's that are 100% fine, with the only issue being decal sheets that yellow over time. I did not buy any of my models to turn around and sell them for profit, but in recent years I have decided to sell a good number of items due to space limitations and changes in lifestyle.( Married now, with many more family commitments, etc) It is much harder to sell diecast for what you pay for them compared to plastic models. Most of the older plastic kits I have sold I made a little profit on, I am lucky to get my money back on diecast. When you put them on ebay, most people factor shipping into what they want to pay. I still can't offer free shipping like a high volume dealer, so it is hard to get a decent price unless it is a super rare item or in demand at the moment. I always find it laughable when the guys who collect 1/18 brag about the fact that they are "real metal" and have "weight to them". BIG DEAL! They may also fall apart, or have the hood curl up or have paint crack or rash up......Frankly, I would not have gotten involved with the diecast had I known about these issues. These days, I am strictly back to plastic in 1/24 and 25th scale with an occasional big scale project. Honestly, I am kind of glad to hear 1/18 is dying out, I feel like a lot of people are not aware of the possible issues these models can have over time.
Great model ! I was following the in progress posts on this one! I'm not gonna lie, because of your post and the Mongoose version you posted I was inspired to buy one of the Accurate Miniature kits on Ebay. There was/is a guy selling them for $7 plus shipping, minus decals and photoetch parts. Perfect for this kind of build! Thanks for the inspiration, and once again, you did a great job! -Larry