Ace-Garageguy Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 I needed a little creativity injection to get me over the hump on a couple other builds...the hump that usually happens when the mockup and design phase segues into the grunt-work phase...so I did this Q&D mockup on an old AMT '57 chassis I'd already started prepping to be a gasser some years back. First time I saw the recent Revell '57 wagon kits, this is what came to mind. Notice...the nose isn't in the stupidly high (and not correct) posture so many 1:1 "nostalgia" builders go for these days. Even this one needs to come down a tad. You can figure a real gasser had a crankshaft centerline of 24" off of the pavement (that's about one inch in 1/25 scale), and the door sills should be about level with the pavement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouO Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Lookin real good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'70 Grande Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Ace,I'll be watching this build as it progresses! It looks like that old AMT chassis fit underneath the Revell body pretty well; were there any complications? Also, do you have a body color(s) paint plan yet... and where did those rear tires come from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Nice start!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phildaupho Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Nice project. 57 Fords make great looking Gassers although not as often seen. I know exactly what you mean by the hump preceding the grunt work !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Run with it Bill ! I will be looking in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 I needed a little creativity injection to get me over the hump on a couple other builds...the hump that usually happens when the mockup and design phase segues into the grunt-work phase...Oh I know that one well... once you've figured out all the technical stuff, it's sitting right and you can close your eyes and see what the finished model would look like... then it's time to move on to the next challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffs396 Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) I needed a little creativity injection to get me over the hump on a couple other builds...the hump that usually happens when the mockup and design phase segues into the grunt-work phase... I "suffer" from this as well. Once the challenge of seeing the initial idea or concept come to fruition in scale, I usually move onto yet another one...ugh...not much finished We need to coin a phrase/term for this "condition"... Good lookin' wagon Bill! Keep it going! Well, at least until your vision is satisfied... Edited October 31, 2015 by jeffs396 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Notice...the nose isn't in the stupidly high (and not correct) posture so many 1:1 "nostalgia" builders go for these days. Even this one needs to come down a tad. You can figure a real gasser had a crankshaft centerline of 24" off of the pavement (that's about one inch in 1/25 scale), and the door sills should be about level with the pavement.In fact, I'm pretty sure the NHRA rules from the 50's and 60's regarding gasser class state that the front of the car can not be higher than the rear. I think there was also a limit on how high the car could be, overall.Neat project idea, Bill! There's something about making a race car out of a big old family wagon that I've always just loved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 Thanks to everyone for your interest and comments on this one ! I see I'm not alone in suffering from the "get the mockup looking right and move on" syndrome, too. What stopped the other '57 Ford gasser in its tracks, and will stop this one too...is my lack of ability with BMF. I've got to bite the bullet and try to learn the technique, because the side-spears are so much a part of the visual first-impression of these cars. I've been reluctant to do nice paint on something and then chance ruining it with a bodged BMF attempt...but I know learning new skills sometimes involves risk. It must be time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Goschke Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) This looks terrific so far! With the level of craftsmanship you're clearly capable of there's no reason in the world you shouldn't be able to tackle a foil job! maybe you could practice on junk body or a simple snap kit – Revell's '57 Belair hardtop snapper is the perfect practice piece. Don't Fear the Foil! Edited October 31, 2015 by John Goschke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Ah, come on Bill. With your talent BMF should be a cake walk. I suspect you are better at it than you give yourself credit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 I appreciate the votes of confidence, but doing long, straight, un-wobbly lines isn't something I've ever been good at...and I hate the look of wavy foil work.I have a couple of those Monogram snappers I bought pretty much for the wheels, so I guess i'll take the suggestion and make the plunge.Will BMF adhere well to bare plastic? I've heard both "yes" and "no". Maybe cleaning the model with 70% isopropyl first would help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Goschke Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 I appreciate the votes of confidence, but doing long, straight, un-wobbly lines isn't something I've ever been good at...and I hate the look of wavy foil work.I have a couple of those Monogram snappers I bought pretty much for the wheels, so I guess i'll take the suggestion and make the plunge.Will BMF adhere well to bare plastic? I've heard both "yes" and "no". Maybe cleaning the model with 70% isopropyl first would help?I foiled an earlier issue of the Belair that was molded in light turquoise. Took it out of the box in the hobby shop and started foiling and didn't have a problem. But it couldn't to give the body a wash and dry in warm water with a little dish soap.Remember, let the weight of the knife do the cutting. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Great subject and start Bill... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thanks to everyone for your interest and comments on this one ! I see I'm not alone in suffering from the "get the mockup looking right and move on" syndrome, too. What stopped the other '57 Ford gasser in its tracks, and will stop this one too...is my lack of ability with BMF. I've got to bite the bullet and try to learn the technique, because the side-spears are so much a part of the visual first-impression of these cars. I've been reluctant to do nice paint on something and then chance ruining it with a bodged BMF attempt...but I know learning new skills sometimes involves risk. It must be time. Try foiling first, then painting. I've found that can really help. Remove the paint with a white vinyl eraser or super-super-fine sandpaper, like 1500 or higher grit. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DumpyDan Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Practice practice practice, gonna be following you on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) Remember, let the weight of the knife do the cutting. Have fun! Bill...the above advice is one of the two most important keys. The other one is to start with a brand new X-Acto knife blade, this avoids tearing the foil and also aids the cutting action with the very light touch of the knife blade on the foil Some cars are harder to foil than others, but here you've got a big head start as on cars like the Bel Air and Del Rio, the protruding chrome creates a "valley" that serves as a natural cutline. It guides the knife, thus avoiding the wavy cutlines you mentioned. I like the idea of practicing on a snap kit, and that pictured Revell Bel Air would be a great one to start with. I also agree with one of the other posters here - you underestimate your talent and skills. Your work is amoungst the most compelling and creative that I've seen on this forum. Foiling with BareMetal will be a breeze for you once you play around with it a bit. Cheers....TIM Edited November 1, 2015 by tim boyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunajammer Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 There are two technics that can serve you well, depending on the need. Sometimes it just easier to cut the long thin strips on the sheet, then carefully lay and adjust as you go, no involved trimming needed once it's down. Each model I do I use both technics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIPTROIT 71 Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 This one is going to be cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sledsel Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 In fact, I'm pretty sure the NHRA rules from the 50's and 60's regarding gasser class state that the front of the car can not be higher than the rear. I think there was also a limit on how high the car could be, overall.24" to center of the front center line of the crankshaft.Bill, since you are running without the bumper/valance, be sure to cut off the fender at the scribbed line. That is actually part of the valance.If you are ambitious, sand the bottom of the header a bit, it is to thick. The 1:1 57's, the lower part of the headlight bucket was about a 1/2" lower than the header and the upper grill dipped down in that area. If sanded below the headlight at an angle so the grill right there tucks up behind the headlight area, it will look fine. Thinning this down 1/16" makes a HUGE difference in the front end. Also, if you go this route, be sure to trim the fender to match the bottom of the grill.Looking forward to seeing this done. Go for the BMF, start with a new blade, slow and easy. Yup, I been doing awhile and it still intimidates me! don't burnish down real good til after trimming. Makes getting the excess off tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 ... It looks like that old AMT chassis fit underneath the Revell body pretty well; were there any complications? ... and where did those rear tires come from? Thanks to everyone for your interest and input on this one too. To answer the questions above, the old AMT chassis goes in pretty much like it's made for it. There's a little trimming required where the rear sides of the frame touch the insides of the rear quarters. That's it, though I think there may be a slight height issue somewhere in there too. The rear tires are narrow M&H piecrust slicks found in many vintage AMT kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagercr Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Bill, you are making a nice start on this. Can't wait to see it finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Great gasser for sure. The rear slicks look to be correct for the era your building, but your going to have a lot of sanding on the tire treads. It looks like the one was cast crooked or something. On your foiling, don't let it intimidate you. If I may suggest in addition to the other good advice on foiling. You are going to scribe the doors and tail gate. At that time also take a new #11 blade and outline all of the moldings before you even primer the body. The very fine detail lines start to go way as you add paint. This makes it difficult to find the edge of the molding after painting. I have even rescribed the moldings before trying to use chrome foil. This gives you an easier line to follow when you apply the foil. When doing something like the body side moldings take it one panel at a time. I'll do the front fender and then the door and so on. Be sure to stop the foil at door opening, this will help make the opening more real looking. Q-tips and the pointed ones like your wife or girlfriend gets at the makeup counter are great to work the foil into the contours of the moldings you're foiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exesivefire Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 I'll be watching, picked up one of these kits to do just this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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