Matt Bacon Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Well, it's good to get back to the bench. After five weeks enforced absence caused by a hospital stay to have a dodgy heart valve replaced with a stainless steel one with a 25-year warranty followed by some down-time for recovery and rehab, I've got my mojo back. Since i need to rebuild strength and fitness before going back to work in December, I should be able to get in some serious building! Triggered by the discovery of an "Owner's Workshop Manual" for the T-70, with many helpful diagrams, I pulled this kit that I found cheap at a model show back in February out of the stash. Although boxed by "Union", it's the old IMC kit with new instructions telling you how to deal with the various issues with the aging plastic... Since the vast majority of the chassis and components are bare aluminium or silver, I've decided to assemble it before painting, and then do some detail painting afterwards The suspension is pretty reasonably detailed and quite accurate. One of the less satisfying details is this pair of vents to let hot air from the rear brakes out from the wheel well. A lumpy depression on the clamshell as moulded, I think they look a lot better cut out and opened up. I've heard lots about the fit issues with the body clamshells and doors, so I thought the sooner I can get it mocked up and start fine-tuning the shape of the doors with some plastic card shims, the better. I'd really like to get the whole thing fitting properly while it's still a "body in white", before I go near it with primer and paint. That's it for now! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 One of the intriguing things about this kit is the engine. Apparently, the very earliest Mecom Lola T70 Spider was fitted with a Ford 289 V8 on delivery, but it was soon replaced by a variety of small block Chevy V8s of increasing sizes. They also became the engine of choice for most other T70s, up to and including the much more common and still raced MkIII. The engine on the left is the one that comes with the kit, which fits the chassis mounts and through the rear suspension. On the right is a Chevy V-8 from a handy 69 Camaro kit. I thought I'd see if there was any chance of getting the more prototypical engine in the car, but as you can see, there's no way it's going to fit into the chassis or under the clamshell, even if I switched the transmissions... Hmmmmm..... best, M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 I hope you are doing well. I think I heard that was a tough kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Chernosky Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 I built this kit many, many moons ago. Early 70's I think. I have another boxed as a Union kit. Will be following this build as I have long wanted to re-visit it. Still looking for the Gurney decals that were once made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps46 Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 I wish you the very best with both the recovery and the Lola. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 16, 2019 Author Share Posted November 16, 2019 Thanks very much guys... bench time is definitely making me feel more on the mend! The doors are definitely a sloppy "fit." I've added some plastic strip on key edges, on the basis that it's easier to sand and trim to shape from an oversize starting point: The not-at-all bad driver figure is under way. First pass at getting a better fit on the doors. The rear clam has a couple of tiny pins in it to click better into place, the front is free floating at the moment. Mocked up with the driver and steering wheel so I can set his arms in the right place. The rod in the headlights is filling some serious sink-holes and will be trimmed off shortly... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 I'm glad you are okay, and back at it!!....this is gonna be BRILLIANT!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucky 130 Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 If you look at the 289 motor, the oil pan is flat. Flatten the Chevy oil pan like wise, and I believe it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brudda Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 I am trying to do this kit also. Tough kit. I noticed adding material to the bottom of the doors. I will be watching and learning. Cool build and great subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy124 Posted November 18, 2019 Share Posted November 18, 2019 Good to have you back healthy, Matt! Best wishes and model on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam I Am Posted November 18, 2019 Share Posted November 18, 2019 On 11/14/2019 at 1:29 PM, Matt Bacon said: One of the intriguing things about this kit is the engine. Apparently, the very earliest Mecom Lola T70 Spider was fitted with a Ford 289 V8 on delivery, but it was soon replaced by a variety of small block Chevy V8s of increasing sizes. They also became the engine of choice for most other T70s, up to and including the much more common and still raced MkIII. The engine on the left is the one that comes with the kit, which fits the chassis mounts and through the rear suspension. On the right is a Chevy V-8 from a handy 69 Camaro kit. I thought I'd see if there was any chance of getting the more prototypical engine in the car, but as you can see, there's no way it's going to fit into the chassis or under the clamshell, even if I switched the transmissions... Hmmmmm..... best, M If I remember correctly, the small block chevy in the old 55-7 Revell kits is pretty small. Maybe you could start with one of those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Thanks for the support, guys! I've decided to plug on (geddit?) with this engine: it's just too much hassle to find and fit something else, and it's not bad, with a bit of help. Here are the carburettor parts. The instructions would have you drill the tops in the name of greater accuracy, but since I have a plentiful supply of aluminium "bootlace ferrules" in multiple sizes, I thought I'd put them to use instead. I trimmed the top of each plastic carb until all that was left was a little nubbin for fixing the ferrule to, and here we are: There really isn't room for a bigger engine in there, especially when I start plumbing it in... Our driver is making progress. He's an amalgam of some Le Mans drivers from "Sports Car Racing in Camera 1960-69" and James Garner in "Grand Prix" to give an appropriate period look. A few final details to add, but he's more or less ready to take the wheel, as you can see... I superglue the wires in at 12 and 6 then 3 and 9, and then at the halfway points between those to get my eight evenly distributed. You have to look pretty bloomin' hard to be able to see that they are all in one circular slot rather than individual holes. Now I just have to mock up where the exhaust manifold goes (the headers go upward, not down) so I can figure out where to run the spark plug wires down and around rather than over them and locate the coil somewhere near the engine (it should be visible in the cutaway picture in my Haynes manual, but I haven't found it yet! It doesn't help that the Chevy engines have the distributor at the opposite end, so the coils is somewhere different. The alternator is mounted onto the gearbox, though, so that I can construct, with its drive belt. That's it for tonight! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 Loving it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 20, 2019 Author Share Posted November 20, 2019 Thanks, Dann... engine is wired and the exhaust system constructed: I like the white "ceramic coated" exhaust headers for a bit of variety, even if today they mostly run with high end stainless exhausts. Contrary to the instructions, I built up the exhausts off the engine, because I wanted to be able to paint them before fixing in place. It took a bit of time and patience, but once the first (front) one is fitted, you have a datum to work to get the rest in line astern. Considering the age of the kit, the designers did an amazing job getting each serpentine piece to wrap round the others and end up in the right place at both ends. Kudos to them. I hope this slightly excessive number of pictures will help anyone else trying to make sense of one of these, especially if you're doing it from an IMC issue of the kit, rather than the Union version, which has some detailed instructions for this bit! I can see a couple of ejector pin marks have re-appeared: a bit of delicate scraping tomorrow when it's all set solidly is going to be called for! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Glad to see you building this thing. I bought one not too far back just because, but I haven't really looked at it. Your work and insights are invaluable resources. Also glad your little internal mod went well, and that you're on the mend. Here's hoping you never need to take them up on any warranty issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brizio Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Nice kit, but needs a lot of work! Glad you are building it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Nice work on this one Matt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magicmustang Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 (edited) Wow, your doing a great job on a difficult kit. I had forgotten what IMC's attempt at "Weber" carbs looked like. Pulled my IMC GT40 kit and yep, that's them. Your ferrules really help improve the look. Will be watching. Edited November 21, 2019 by magicmustang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 22, 2019 Author Share Posted November 22, 2019 Thanks very much for the support, guys. I'm kinda enjoying this one in an "it'll feel so good when it stops..." way... Suddenly remembered this morning that I had some small and powerful magnets lurking in the toolbox, and had a bit of a "Eureka" moment about getting these clamshells to fit properly and stay on... I glued some steel can material to the underside of the front and rear shells, which is enough for the magnets to pull the clams down and into position, and give a little "stickability." I added a small shim at the bottom edge of the rear clam behind the door, which kept springing up and back because it was squishing on something that I couldn't track down. I also ground out the the inside of the shell above the location of the exhaust header union to give a bit more clearance. You can see the potential interference issue with the header joint -- it's the highest point on the engine that doesn't pop up through the opening in the clam top. The magnet is let into the cross-member above the transmission. Driver's finally done, with a few sponsor logos on his suit. A few undercarriage parts, making use of Humbrol Metalcote steel and Citadel washes and "contrast" paints. With luck, you'll see quite a difference between these and the "after" pics still to some... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps46 Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Thanks, Gary! Made some ducting from wire wound round a piece of aluminium tube and covered with heatshrink sleeving... (more of this later) Trial run with the clams on: Working on the front compartment now, and then some "gizmology" in the engine bay to come... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 So, the front end is done: There's going to need to be a tire in there as well as these wires and pipework. You can see the fake "ducting" at the sides, directing air to cool the brake disks -- in theory. So I had to carve off a fair chunk of tire and wheel to get the spare in place. It needs to sit low enough for the front clam to go on with the top intake duct sitting down snugly into the cutouts in the side walls of the front compartment. In real life, I think the radiator on the Mk 1 was more upright, with the tyre lying flat on the floor of the compartment. Later, the requirement to carry the spare was dropped, and the front compartment completely reorganised with the radiator further back and an air box sitting in front feeding the brake cooling ducts. Just checking that the bodywork fits: Paint is Tamiya spray Light Metallic Blue, which I have on hand, and looks OK to me... best, M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrobarry Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Keep going. I like It! So is this car of the type that was raced in the Can Am series? I don`t know that much about sports car racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 27 minutes ago, Nitrobarry said: Keep going. I like It! So is this car of the type that was raced in the Can Am series? I don`t know that much about sports car racing. Yes indeed, though most of the time they ran with big Chevrolet engines, rather than this smaller Ford (which is undersized for the scale as well, which makes it look even more lightweight!). They are pretty common in Historic racing these days: watching a field of T70s and GT40s battling it out is pretty good fun, but deafening... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Shifter Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 (edited) Jim Pace wheels a Lola T70 Spyder on Youtube. If you want to see, go there and search 'Jim Pace Lola T70' If you want bigger thrills, search 'Jim Pace McLaren' ....... in at least one of them he drives Oscar Kovelski's McLaren M6B. Who's that? ? For the biggest thrill, search 'Jim Pace Walter Mitty'. The video not that great but the sound of the mighty, injected Big Block Chevy and upshifts without the clutch will bring tears to your eyes on the last 2 laps ? A road rocket if there ever was one ? This guy gets to drive some really cool, old racecars. Search 'Jim Pace' to see more. Edited November 26, 2019 by Slick Shifter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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