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Italeri/Testors Ferrari 250 GTO Spyder


89AKurt
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13 hours ago, afx said:

Nice work as usual Kurt.

Appreciate it!

Even though I don't have conclusive evidence with pictures, and the cutaway does not show it, I know there is not a solid wall between the engine and fender louvers.  Used the Dremel to open up, and of course file and sanding sticks to refine.  Had a resin battery to use, surprised that is missing.
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Pet peeve is painting springs on shocks.  The cutaway shows a coil spring shock, so this is what I did.
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Someone on Fakebook posted a picture of their workbench, saying it was messy.  Yea right, I said didn't see a problem.  For these tiny coilover shocks, it took a bunch of tools, such as the Waldron punch.  My spring stash, about 30 years worth of scavenging dead electronics and whatever else is mechanical.  But it really sucks when a part goes flying.  😖
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A favorite thing to scavenge springs from are cigarette lighters, the cheap ones (not Bic) that are clear colored, with adjustable flame.  They make nice coilovers, in this case the short springs are switched out for longer ones.  I don't think the spring in the A-arms has a shock, so that should look better as just a spring.
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I had glued the other vac-formed panel underneath, after cutting out the fuel filler opening.  Just a little more refining the windshield frame, and some other stuff, and I should start painting!
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Tried to delete this duplicate, but it keeps showing up!  🤬

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Edited by 89AKurt
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*Had to* get the front springs done tonight.  Getting this assembly together is tricky, not perfect but good enough.
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The dash will get toggle switches, drilled the holes.  In my research of interiors tonight, it's really obvious each of the real cars is different, shape of the tunnel, paint colors or diamond padding, dash on one is missing the top part, etc.  I was looking at the center vents, most have tubes sticking up, some have nothing at all.  I faked in the tube vents with Replicas & Miniatures of MD Wizzard-of-Os.  The kit has molded on pedals, another pet peeve, but when everything is flat black, they might not be seen very well anyway.  Thinking of just sticking on photo-etch pedals for eye candy.  The seat pedestals needed something, so I used the Dremel to open them up.
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The GTO has an oil sump, behind the passenger seat, with a fill tube going to the B-pillar.  The car I'm sort of duplicating does not seem to have a filler on the deck, so I assume the base car did not have a dry sump.  On my N.A.R.T. which has a dry sump, I fabricated a tank from Corian®, *have to* do a similar tank since there is the space behind the front wheel.

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I have the Gunze GTO and Bob Dudek gave me the Revell Germany kit with lots of extra  detail parts. Interesting that the two bodies are different, so maybe not the same serial number GTOs. Watching yours come together is very educational. 

As for the convertible...I was at the Concours of America many years ago for the Ferrari 40th anniversary and someone showed up with a Daytona 365GT convertible. They checked the serial number against the factory list, then disqualified the car from the Concours, made him park away from the show field. He told the organizer that he had the car converted in the U.S. but not by a Ferrari approved coachbuilder. 

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13 hours ago, cobraman said:

Cool project !  You doing a great job on it.

Thanks for checking in.

3 hours ago, Phildaupho said:

Some great modelling going on here that I am sure is going to result in a very unique Ferrari.

Thank you too for the comment.

2 hours ago, Howard Cohen said:

I have the Gunze GTO and Bob Dudek gave me the Revell Germany kit with lots of extra  detail parts. Interesting that the two bodies are different, so maybe not the same serial number GTOs. Watching yours come together is very educational. 

As for the convertible...I was at the Concours of America many years ago for the Ferrari 40th anniversary and someone showed up with a Daytona 365GT convertible. They checked the serial number against the factory list, then disqualified the car from the Concours, made him park away from the show field. He told the organizer that he had the car converted in the U.S. but not by a Ferrari approved coachbuilder. 

Funny story, I've heard convertibles are getting "fixed", some shops kept the roofs.  I have that Gunze too, along with two others.  As with any subject, different manufacturers end up looking different.  And each car was hand made to customer specifications, then over time things changed.  Nick Mason's car is original, not a pristine restoration like the one that sold for $70M.  This video shows all that exist:

Comparison, missing the Fujimi which I got after taking this picture:
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Whenever I get around to doing a real one, have to evaluate every detail such as lights, mirrors, etc.

Made a custom dry sump tank from Corian®, used the filler tube from the kit, will make an aluminum cap.
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Perhaps the most difficult task so far, was scribing the trunk lines.  All the corners are round, used the sharp pointy thing (a sewing machine needle someone in the model club shared) with the circle template.  The Tamiya scriber was against the steel ruler or the french curve, absolutely no freehand.  I just keep taking light passes, sanded, another pass, until it was good enough.  Might have been easier to just cut out two panels, and make a trunk, with tools and spare tire.  🙄
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Finally, started the paint process!
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Didn't paint the body, because under different light, the transition to the spoiler looked like #&77.  Globbed on some Tamiya putty, and ran my finger along there.  Taped over the scribed line, wasn't going through that again.
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Debating about doing the cover thing, am thinking of just putting a line of snaps (photo-etch screws), and say there is a cover, not a roof, in the trunk.  I also don't think there will be door windows, and won't do a vent window like what the one in the pictures has.  Rounded up some detail items, stay tuned!

 

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28 minutes ago, tkzwolf said:

I'm learning some new techniques watching this.  Thanks for sharing your build.  

You snuck in while I was composing..... glad you stopped by!

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Got some post paint assembly done last night.  The rear springs would be a problem for kids or newbies, holes needed to be drilled.  Need to change my mind on painting the brake disks (I hate that). 
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5 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

Cool progress!

Always exciting when paint is done!

Ordered stainless steel tubing for exhaust tips (bottom, the tiny sizes are what I got some time ago in shorter amounts, almost used up).  Got the cutaway printed and mounted on foam core, to go with several others on the wall.
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Used the cordless drill to make the cap for the dry sump, the aluminum rod was salvaged from a TV antenna.
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Polished all the photo-etch, aluminum plate, and the tubing being used.
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Decals, only the gauges will be used from the kit sheet, I have aftermarket emblems.  Was disappointed that I couldn't tell the little gauges did not match the molded rings until the decal was put on.  The Hobby Design fire extinguisher is a model in itself, there are four decals on that!
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Detailed the dash with some photo-etch.  Replicas & Miniatures of MD Wizard of Os used for gauge bezels, sort of disguised the off center gauges, glued on with Testors canopy glue which is on the gauges.  Top Studio toggle switches.  Top Studio photo-etch allen screws used for lights.  Guitar string for the column stalks (need to form the little end).  Have had the shirt pins forever, finally got to use one for the shift lever!
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The instructions don't say the steering column should be painted flat black, just the boot.  All the pictures I've seen shows flat black.  My OCD is showing. 🙄

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16 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

Kurt, this is turning out GREAT! I've seen this car before.........in 1/43rd scale models and I even thought about attempting this in this scale.

VERY good bodywork and I'll certainly be tuning in!

Yes you are correct, in 1:43 scale, now that you mention it.  Thanks for tuning in.

Other than the body, got the last of the airbrushing done.  I had painted the brake disks flat black then Alclad, was not happy, so stripped in brake fluid.  Started over with gloss black, set on the pickup hood (perfectly nice today, I should go for a mountain bike ride), then sprayed Alclad stainless steel with a quick finish of polished aluminum.  Later masked to spray Testor steel on the calipers.  Sprayed the gloss blue seats with lots of Dullcote.  Sprayed the steering wheel rim Testors gloss brown, the plastic was brown but had a translucent quality.
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Assembled the steering wheel, used the Detail Master emblem, glued on with Tacky glue because it's a little bigger than the hole on the retaining button.  Assembled the engine accessories (headers will be after final glue in), am thinking of plumbing oil, fuel lines, and need to do the radiator hoses too (that's usually something all kits have).  Then I can glue the interior to the chassis.
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Sprayed flat black inside the body.  Need to carefully sand the putty at the spoiler before commencing on The Big Paint.
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Relentless progress! I'm sure your toggle switch installation technique is more efficient than mine - I ended up losing most of the packet and turned the air blue 😖 That steering wheel is awesome and the pin shift lever looks better than the ones I bought!

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13 hours ago, Funkychiken said:

Kurt, absolutely amazing build so car, it's turning out great, fingers crossed on the body paint. thanks for sharing - enjoyed reading through the journey just now....!

Thank you for checking in.

4 hours ago, peteski said:

As long as those ignored things are *NOT* on the model. :)

For example, full scale shingles, full scale upholstery on the pickup, someday.

1 hour ago, Pete75 said:

Relentless progress! I'm sure your toggle switch installation technique is more efficient than mine - I ended up losing most of the packet and turned the air blue 😖 That steering wheel is awesome and the pin shift lever looks better than the ones I bought!

Your Audi Quattro sure needed detail work, and is coming along nicely.  I'm amazed how I can handle tiny parts, the human body is an amazing thing, when it works.  I hold everything down on the bench, anticipating how something can flip, snap, eject, fly, or whatever small disaster.  Holding with the tweezers is always a trick, I tune up the contact surfaces with something like 100 grit sandpaper, clamp like you're holding the paper, slide sideways for each side, look at the gap, the new surface should help vs. the extremely smooth surface.  Shape of the tweezer is important, my favorite is pointy end, second is about 4mm wide.  Those toggles are a *itch, I sneak one at a time out the plastic envelope, getting the nut on is a trick, then using the dental pick apply glue, and pretend I'm the Perseverance sticking the landing.  I feel your pain!

My OCD is getting out of hand. 😬  I couldn't handle the carb trumpets, drilled successively smaller holes down, then used a new #11 blade to spin smoother, very delicately, but still cracked one.  Inserted hypodermic needles, cut with the Dremel disk cutter, holding in clamping forceps, which is how I measured the length.  Also made the fuel lines, solder wire into the carbs which I smashed the end with pliers, so the guitar string could be glued to.  Also made a dipstick, end is not finished yet.
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Searched for pictures of the engine, not many out of the car, but plenty of various scale models.  Trouble with this car, each one is different, and there are replicas to complicate things.  I see inaccuracies with the kit, and want to correct this and that, but reign myself in.  It does bug me there is no starter, even AMT puts starters on their engines! 😅  Tried to figure out the coolant thermostat housing and hoses.  To the point of taking educated guesses on the oil lines that will run to the dry sump tank.  After all this, I better do spark plug wires, and two coils.
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Since this isn't going to be an authentic replica, wanted to see what Daytona mags look like.  Makes me think 'kit car'.  🤔
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Pulled out the other kits in the stash, the Fujimi has coolant hoses, the Protar does not.  The difference in what is detailed, missing, different between the kits is a bit overwhelming.  I just want eye candy.  Made a starter, using the cordless drill and Tamiya scriber.  What I would say is a thermostat housing on a Chevy 350 was made.  Other details are pointed out.
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Glued the engine in, interior to the chassis, and the last parts.  Made a cross bar brace, which should get airbrush painted.  Now the exhaust headers are in, had to reconfigure the battery and sump tank filler.  Added coolant hoses and oil lines.
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Exhaust pipes are glued on.  Needed to add a steel clamp at the back to hold the chassis down.
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Have a model meeting tomorrow, this is a good point to show how nuts I am.  😅

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Was hoping to get the body painted this weekend, but no...... 😑  Took two steps back, was never happy with the hood hinge, completely redid it.  Assembled the wire wheels, wanted to see how the body sits on the chassis, I'm wondering why it sits so high.  Sanded down some interior tub areas which helped a little.   Concerned about the gauge pod and windshield clearance.
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Sprayed the first coat of primer, a quick mist which showed all the blemishes.  Also realized I didn't finish the windshield post.  Added putty where required.
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Added fuel lines, battery cables, and revised the sump tank filler again.
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Used the cordless drill to make the fuel filter.  The bottom is clear, doesn't show very well here.  Know I'm missing the fuel pump and a bunch of other components, I just wanted enough eye candy to fill the engine bay.
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Looks like the body isn't fully seated on the chassis.  The frame shouldn't be visible from the side, at least it isn't on the 1:1.  I haven't built the Italeri kit yet so not sure what might be fouling it

Ferrari 250 GTO - 3705GT - 1962 Le Mans Class Winner – Amalgam Collection

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19 minutes ago, afx said:

Looks like the body isn't fully seated on the chassis.  The frame shouldn't be visible from the side, at least it isn't on the 1:1.  I haven't built the Italeri kit yet so not sure what might be fouling it

Ferrari 250 GTO - 3705GT - 1962 Le Mans Class Winner – Amalgam Collection

That's what I suspected.  The rear vents are different on that car.

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