Wet Sanding ???

[Zippi]

As an average model car builder I've been trying to step up my game on my paint jobs.  I normally sand the body during prep, wet sanding after primer, wet sanding after top coat, wet sanding after clear coat, then polish a lot.  My hat is off to you fellows that can wet sand and not burn through the paint.  How in the heck do you fellows get around a body wet sanding and get into all those tight area's and those long edges.  I've seen some really nice paint jobs on this forum and I just don't see how you guys do it.  Help me out here fellows....what's your secrete???   

Edited September 7, 2022 by Zippi

[Plowboy]

Believe it or not, a good paint job starts with good prep. I always sand the entire body with 400 grit first. That knocks down any high spots and will show any low spots. After putty work is done, I shoot a light coat of primer and sand with 600. If all is good, I shoot three coats of primer and sand with 1000. Then I'll spray two coats of paint. Allow it to dry a day and barely sand with 1000. I then spray one coat of paint and one coat of clear. Allow that to dry a day and sand with 2000. Spray two more coats of clear. Allow it to dry a few days. 

I spray clear over every paint whether it's a solid or metallic color for two reasons.

1 It acts as a gauge when it comes time to polish. As long as I don't see color on the cloth I polish with, I know I'm safe. If I see color on the cloth, I know to back off on that area.

2 It gives a deeper and better shine in my opinion. 

Once the paint has dried well, I barely sand with 2000 grit. Just enough to knock down any orange peel. Then I switch to 4000 grit and get the clear as perfectly smooth as possible. Then I go over it with the Tamiya Polishing Compounds: Course, Fine and Finish. This stuff is a game changer when it comes time to polish! It's a bit expensive. But, it's worth every single penny and then some! I wouldn't paint without it!  

[StevenGuthmiller]

Or you can cheat and do all of your sanding and polishing after the final clear coat like I do.

 

I hate sanding more than anything, (probably due to the 25 years that I was a drywall subcontractor) So I prime, paint and clear without any sanding whatsoever between coats, unless I happen to have some junk that needs to be sanded out.

Once the final clear coat is finished, (I usually use about 5 coats of Duplicolor clear right out of the spray can) then I polish using Micro-Mesh pads, (usually starting at about 3,600 and working towards 12,000) followed by Novus polish.

It usually goes pretty well for me, and I can save myself a WHOLE lot of sanding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[CabDriver]

2 hours ago, Zippi said:

My hat is off to you fellows that can wet sand and not burn through the paint.

Some of this is just making sure there's enough material (paint) to be ABLE to polish without sanding through...if you imagine you're removing say, a half layer of paint with each part of the polishing process, have you got enough layers to be able to complete all the sanding and polishing you want to do without running out of layers?

If you're using a high build clear like the old Testors gloss clear enamel, you might only need a couple of coats because it's so thick - but if I'm using the Rustoleum lacquer clear I'll give it maybe 8-10 light coats of that, to be sure.

Of course, you still have to be careful on the edges because they're more prone to 'polish-thru' - but just having enough clear on there to start with is a thing I wish I'd realized sooner when it comes to polishing

Edited September 7, 2022 by CabDriver

[Zippi]

1 hour ago, Plowboy said:

Believe it or not, a good paint job starts with good prep. I always sand the entire body with 400 grit first. That knocks down any high spots and will show any low spots. After putty work is done, I shoot a light coat of primer and sand with 600. If all is good, I shoot three coats of primer and sand with 1000. Then I'll spray two coats of paint. Allow it to dry a day and barely sand with 1000. I then spray one coat of paint and one coat of clear. Allow that to dry a day and sand with 2000. Spray two more coats of clear. Allow it to dry a few days. 

I spray clear over every paint whether it's a solid or metallic color for two reasons.

1 It acts as a gauge when it comes time to polish. As long as I don't see color on the cloth I polish with, I know I'm safe. If I see color on the cloth, I know to back off on that area.

2 It gives a deeper and better shine in my opinion. 

Once the paint has dried well, I barely sand with 2000 grit. Just enough to knock down any orange peel. Then I switch to 4000 grit and get the clear as perfectly smooth as possible. Then I go over it with the Tamiya Polishing Compounds: Course, Fine and Finish. This stuff is a game changer when it comes time to polish! It's a bit expensive. But, it's worth every single penny and then some! I wouldn't paint without it!  

 

16 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Or you can cheat and do all of your sanding and polishing after the final clear coat like I do.

 

I hate sanding more than anything, (probably due to the 25 years that I was a drywall subcontractor) So I prime, paint and clear without any sanding whatsoever between coats, unless I happen to have some junk that needs to be sanded out.

Once the final clear coat is finished, (I usually use about 5 coats of Duplicolor clear right out of the spray can) then I polish using Micro-Mesh pads, (usually starting at about 3,600 and working towards 12,000) followed by Novus polish.

It usually goes pretty well for me, and I can save myself a WHOLE lot of sanding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

2 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

Some of this is just making sure there's enough material (paint) to be ABLE to polish without sanding through...if you imagine you're removing say, a half layer of paint with each part of the polishing process, have you got enough layers to be able to complete all the sanding and polishing you want to do without running out of layers?

If you're using a high build clear like the old Testors gloss clear enamel, you might only need a couple of coats because it's so thick - but if I'm using the Rustoleum lacquer clear I'll give it maybe 8-10 light coats of that, to be sure.

Of course, you still have to be careful on the edges because they're more prone to 'polish-thru' - but just having enough clear on there to start with is a thing I wish I'd realized sooner when it comes to polishing

Thanks for all the info fellows.  Maybe I didn't word it right and that's my fault.  I have a good process that i use and it works for me. I'm more interested in how you get into those tight spaces with sand paper like in the pic.

[CabDriver]

I find, for spots like that, folding the sanding cloths over on themselves once or twice to create a 'point' so you can get in there often helps - but if it's a really tough area to get into it's often easier to rely on the polish to do more of the legwork.   Much easier to get some Meguiars in there and use a q-tip than to try and polish in a little spot where there's a good chance of ruining something else (some raised trim, for example). 

Those little awkward-to-reach spots really make the difference between an 'ok' polishing job and a really well done one though, IMO - lots of people neglect to get in there and really make sure all the HARD parts are done as well as the easy parts

[Ace-Garageguy]

All good points above.

BUT, one of the best "tricks" you can master as far as sanding and polishing goes is to learn how to shoot your paint slick enough so extensive post-work just isn't required.

This is Duplicolor rattlecan mica color, with the old Testors lacquer clear topcoat, just exactly as-sprayed with zero sanding or polishing.

Obviously, it's not going to take a helluva lot of work to get it the rest of the way.

Edited September 7, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy
CLARITY

[espo]

Many good suggestions and approaches to getting a smooth paint job. I might add that using sanding pads that will conform to body shapes can be a big aid as well. I try and start with the highest number pads, then go over the areas that show any orange peel or irregular surface finish with a lower number to bring that area close to the surrounding surface. Then you can go with the higher number abrasive. This will minimize the amount of sanding and the possibility of going thru the clear coat. 

[Zippi]

52 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

I find, for spots like that, folding the sanding cloths over on themselves once or twice to create a 'point' so you can get in there often helps - but if it's a really tough area to get into it's often easier to rely on the polish to do more of the legwork.   Much easier to get some Meguiars in there and use a q-tip than to try and polish in a little spot where there's a good chance of ruining something else (some raised trim, for example). 

Those little awkward-to-reach spots really make the difference between an 'ok' polishing job and a really well done one though, IMO - lots of people neglect to get in there and really make sure all the HARD parts are done as well as the easy parts

 

52 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

All good points above.

BUT, one of the best "tricks" you can master as far as sanding and polishing goes is to learn how to shoot your paint slick enough so extensive post-work just isn't required.

This is Duplicolor rattlecan mica color, with the old Testors lacquer clear topcoat, just exactly as-sprayed with zero sanding or polishing.

Obviously, it's not going to take a helluva lot of work to get it the rest of the way.

 

37 minutes ago, espo said:

Many good suggestions and approaches to getting a smooth paint job. I might add that using sanding pads that will conform to body shapes can be a big aid as well. I try and start with the highest number pads, then go over the areas that show any orange peel or irregular surface finish with a lower number to bring that area close to the surrounding surface. Then you can go with the higher number abrasive. This will minimize the amount of sanding and the possibility of going thru the clear coat. 

Thanks fellows.  All the comments are much appreciated.

[TransAmMike]

You guys' refer to sanding cloths and pads....just exactly what product(s) are you referring to?

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

You guys' refer to sanding cloths and pads....just exactly what product(s) are you referring to?

I use Micro-Mesh pads.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Zippi]

16 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I use Micro-Mesh pads.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

I've got a pack of those that I picked up at HL.  I find that there to thick and not flexible enough.

[Dpate]

2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

You guys' refer to sanding cloths and pads....just exactly what product(s) are you referring to?

Micro-mesh, Tamiya, infini, and other sells sponge sanding pads.  Example of infini. There sandpaper is top notch along with there sanding sticks, sponge sticks, etc

[Raoul Ross]

Alclad makes cloth backed polishing cloths that start at 3200 and go to 12000.... and a rubber block. ALC310

[Dpate]

12 minutes ago, Zippi said:

I've got a pack of those that I picked up at HL.  I find that there to thick and not flexible enough.

Those are knock offs.  Terrible compared to the legit micro mesh.  But there not meant for tight spots IMO that's what there sponge set is for or the cloths you can get from micro mesh.  You can even make your own with 3M self adhesive pads like the little square ones.  Make a square piece of sand paper the same size and stick on the 3M pad and BOOM instant flexible sanding pad. Think there called mounting pads and there square or you could get the roll kind and just make as many as you need. 

 

Edited September 7, 2022 by Dpate

[NOBLNG]

I have used the micro mesh pads and the infini ones. Also these 3M pads. The 3M also come in 800 and 1200.

[Miatatom]

These are the sanding cloths that I use. I finish with Novus 2.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/detail-master-polishing-system-assortment-plastic-model-sanding-tool-sandpaper-9000

[TransAmMike]

I appreciate the replies to my sanding cloth question.    Just wondering how long they last.

[Miatatom]

Try to keep them clean and they'll last a couple of years at least. I've been back in the hobby for about 12 years and still using my second set.

[TransAmMike]

11 minutes ago, Miatatom said:

Try to keep them clean and they'll last a couple of years at least. I've been back in the hobby for about 12 years and still using my second set.

Thanks Tom

[espo]

I rinse mine with water when thru and set them out to dry. Most of many are over ten years old. 

[jacko]

For StevenG

Do you sand the fresh body before primer?

[StevenGuthmiller]

12 hours ago, jacko said:

For StevenG

Do you sand the fresh body before primer?

Yes.

There are always mold lines, sink marks, and other imperfections that need attention, plus the fact that I usually will re-scribe most of the trim and panel lines, so the body will usually get plenty of sanding action before beginning primer coats.

 

 

 

Steve

[Pete J.]

Psss't!  Here is a secret.  Don't tell anyone.  You can get micro mesh directly from the manufacture for less than a local or online hobby store.  You can order the exact grit you want instead of buying a "polishing" kit.  

https://micro-surface.com/product/micro-mesh-soft-touch-pads-individual/

[Mike C]

Besides all the wet sanding advice given the most important thing is to lay down the smoothest coat of paint possible and that will minimize your wet sanding and you'll start with the finer grits.