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1/25 Monogram Slingster Dragster


Casey

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I'm not going to beat this dead horse...honest.

What I AM going to do is to say that, after spending more time thinking about all the build options with this kit (it IS a grand parts source for bodies for a string of early dragsters) and getting mostly over my disappointment in not finding a WELL SCALED NEW-TOOL QUICK CHANGE (which the hobby is sorely lacking), along with other correctly-scaled bits, I think I probably could have been a little kinder to it.

I'll most likely be buying a few more...as long as they're cheap.  :D

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I built this version of the Slingster shortly after it came out. Over all I had fun building it. Nice, simple, quick project to break up all the Big Builds. I replaced a handful of things that looked odd to me. Rear wheels, slicks and fuel tank from the Tony Nancy 22jr double kit. Blower assembly, injector, scoop and drive from Revell KS Pitman '41 Willys. To hide the awful rear axle I used one of the plated shields from AMT's Double Dragster. I also added some detail with a fuel pump, fuel plumbing and ignition wires. I feel like the result is a very decent looking dragster? I definitely feel like there's enough good in the box to make purchasing worth it, even as just a parts donor.

 
 
 
 
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I built this version of the Slingster shortly after it came out. Over all I had fun building it. Nice, simple, quick project to break up all the Big Builds. I replaced a handful of things that looked odd to me. Rear wheels, slicks and fuel tank from the Tony Nancy 22jr double kit. Blower assembly, injector, scoop and drive from Revell KS Pitman '41 Willys. To hide the awful rear axle I used one of the plated shields from AMT's Double Dragster. I also added some detail with a fuel pump, fuel plumbing and ignition wires. I feel like the result is a very decent looking dragster? I definitely feel like there's enough good in the box to make purchasing worth it, even as just a parts donor.

 
 
 
 

Dennis....sharp, sharp, sharp!  Your changes add authenticity and give it a "real" (in miniature) vibe to my eye.   TIM  

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Question: The Stock Slicks in the Slingster are too small. I have some AMT Pad Printed Slicks from the '65 Mustang Gasser/Street Freak kit. Can I use those or, are they too big? And I they are too big, does any AMT kit in current production have something that WILL work?

TIA, Alan

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Question: The Stock Slicks in the Slingster are too small. I have some AMT Pad Printed Slicks from the '65 Mustang Gasser/Street Freak kit. Can I use those or, are they too big? And I they are too big, does any AMT kit in current production have something that WILL work?

TIA, Alan

The wheels supplied in the Slingster kit are 16". This was a common enough size for recapped slicks in the time period represented by the kit.

The Radir catalog chart (link) I posted shows repop 16" slicks currently built for nostalgia racing and restoration to have an overall height (diameter) of 32", but anything in the 30"-32" range would be about right.

If you have a digital caliper, this will be about 30 mm to 32 mm in 1/25 scale.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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real thing.jpg

That is one incredible photograph, first of all because it's in color, second because it's tack sharp. The result is that it functions like a time machine, giving us an intimate glimpse into the textures, colors and construction details of the era. I also love how everyone in the photo is craning there necks to see the strip action, LOL!

Edited by Bernard Kron
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That is one incredible photograph, first of all because it's in color, second because it's tack sharp. The result is that it functions like a time machine, giving us an intimate glimpse into the textures, colors and construction details of the era. I also love how everyone in the photo is craning there necks to see the strip action, LOL!

And lookit those skinny plug wires...   ;)

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That is one incredible photograph, first of all because it's in color, second because it's tack sharp. The result is that it functions like a time machine, giving us an intimate glimpse into the textures, colors and construction details of the era.

It really is a great image. You can even see just how the paint has worn off the "push bar" downtube, the crossed shoulder belts behind the seat,  and what appear to be an off-the-shelf bayonet top front shock absorber. :)

What do you suspect those off-color areas on the "tread" area of the left slick are from? Tape glue residue, maybe?

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I thought it a good image myself, however:

It's probably colorized, I don't know. 

It has a similar frame construction, that's why I chose it.

For a ZILLION picture, go to George Klass Remembers.You'll see a huge variety of images, cars, construction, levels of sophistication and safety.

Just for the record, I'd bet this car ran (on gas) in the 11's at 120 or so.

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I thought it a good image myself, however:

It's probably colorized, I don't know. 

It has a similar frame construction, that's why I chose it.

For a ZILLION picture, go to George Klass Remembers.You'll see a huge variety of images, cars, construction, levels of sophistication and safety.

Just for the record, I'd bet this car ran (on gas) in the 11's at 120 or so.

Why do you think the photo was colorized? Color film was available at the time that photo was taken. A decent camera, with color slide film especially, could easily give you a that nice of a color image. It's a great photo. I'm betting it's not been modified. I'd love to see other photos of the same car. I really like the early, pre funny car era, quarter mile stuff. 

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It's probably colorized, I don't know. 

Here's a little piece of photography trivia (I used to be a pretty serious photog in the pre-digital age).

Color film was supplied with different dyes depending on the kind of light it was going to be exposed in. There was "daylight" and "tungsten" (for the old filament-type bulbs) and some other oddball ones.

"Tungsten" film used to photograph something in daylight would produce a distinct cool blue cast to the entire image. 

I'd just about bet the farm that's what we're seeing here...or the dyes have simply faded over time, which is also quite common.

 

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  • 1 year later...
4 hours ago, Greg Myers said:

$_1.jpg

This is actually the end of the box, not the top-- you can tell by the position of the shink wrap seam. Same box as the first image.

 

4 hours ago, Greg Myers said:

RMX-4997-2.jpg

The above is only a 2D image, not an actual box. Unlike the first image, which can be found on a 3 dimensional box, I've never seen the "Motor Sports" version in 3 dimensions, as an actual kit for sale. IIRC, that was preliminary box art prior to the actual release.

Edited by Casey
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