blunc

got the new 'burb kit since I was close enough to a HL to make it worth saving 40%

I hope you're still working on this, if building the electric motor is hanging you up, just leave it out. Other than the accomplishment of making the electric motor, there's really no good reason to build the electric motor...since running it after it's built leads to things getting broken.

so, we are to assume you have a gazoo large enough to hold a lot of tooth brushes?

Hey Curt, the Auburn isn't 1/32 scale, check out this thread for a little eye-candy proof: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/125494-1935-auburn-speedster-the-abysmal-lindbergpyro-kit-completely-reworked/?page=1 Looking forward to DSC14

I think the Chevy hood would be too short and not wide enough, but it's only plastic and if the Pyro Auburn kit can be made to look good (with enough work) then getting the Chevy hood to fit the Caddy shouldn't be as hard as fixing all the problems with the Auburn kit.

Some original car designs are great, some aren't. Some custom cars are great, some aren't. Fortunately, there's things out there for everyone to like (and dislike).

yup, looks like a clear lens to me...with an amber 1157 bulb behind it. I know Tamiya used to make a really nice clear amber paint. Drilling a small pilot hole in the back side of the lens and filling it with some amber paint just might duplicate of the look of the real thing (try this on clear sprue before taking a chance on ruining the kit lenses)

how about two of those colors?

very clean, nicely done. one other small detail that can be applied to future builds of 1950's vehicles... the front parking lamp lenses were actually clear or milky white and they used yellow/amber bulbs behind the lens.

I have to agree with this! In a recent update, microshaft decided to replace the "open command window here" command with "open powershell here". I don't use powershell and I really wanted to keep using a feature that has been working fine for over ten years.

I agree on this, adjust the 51 roof unit down and forward a little bit to maintain the front door edge line.

I suggest modifying the lower edge of the windshield to match the foose hood and remove/clean up the wipers then add them later.

those are nice looking wheels/tires, are they diecast?

judging from the box art, Little Nellie has "auto pilot" or JB is flying with his knees. interesting and rare subject.

that is usually reported with no load and most hobby uses are done with gear reduction, I was merely posting an example. if RPM is a concern, you can search out other 3v DC motors with different sizes, ratings and RPM's

I was not able to get my first Lindberg kit motor to work either.... However, I was rewinding slot car motors long before I got my degree in electronics. That particular motor is a bit simpler than slot car motors in that it has only 2 field core windings (the wire wrapped around metal to create a magnetic field when energized) in this case a stack of "laminations" (term used in the instructions) assembled onto the motor shaft. Most high performance slot car motors have 3 field core windings, I have seen as high as 5 field core armatures but those seem to be rare or not popular due to bang for the buck. Wire wrapping armatures is just like winding thread around a spool, the main difference is that you have to solder the ends down once you finish, and that the wire length for each field core needs to be the same... both for balance and electrical reasons. Make sure the wire has no kinks in it, work slowly, wind tightly, try to align each wind next to the last one (kind of like winding a hose or fishing line onto a reel) as long as you can...this will become impossible toward the last part of the wire but it helps early on. This motor assembly will require some delicate soldering iron work and you have to remember to scrape off the enamel coating from the wire when you solder the connections to the commutator assembly (only scrape off the enamel where you need to solder, the enamel acts as an insulator so the wire windings don't short to each other). Try to limit the heat applied to the parts when soldering, if you melt the plastic parts of the motor, you're done. I suggest "tinning" the spots that require solder (the tabs of the commutator where the core field windings get soldered on and the commutator brushes) before assembly, this will make soldering go much faster and keep melting to a minimum. A little Vaseline or lithium grease applied to the motor shaft will extend the life of your motor but don't put so much that it contaminates the commutator. This is a lot of info...let me know if you need more.

yup, if you want to put your super detailed (with digital clock and egg-timer) build in curbside, that is an option you can take, however.... your entry will most likely be judged on the following criteria: paint, attention to exterior detail, and... how much the judge likes it.

got the Foose Caddy at a local HL yesterday. bent A-pillars but easily reformed.

Just about any 3 volt motor similar to this http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-12811?scode=GS401&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google&scid=scplp28-12811&sc_intid=28-12811&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9_Kp4tSi1gIVk1x-Ch3qVwTaEAQYASABEgJJ0fD_BwE should work, but the dimensions of the motor are different from the kit based motor. If this kit is like the older style Lindberg where building the motor was part of the kit build similar to the one on this box art finding one of that exact style may be difficult unless someone here has it and just didn't want to mess with it.

My condolences on your father's passing, Celebrate his life well.

Many times have I seen people "jump" to perform tricks for uppity managers and owners rather than request a little time to apply a little reason or logic to a problem. I have been fortunate to have a couple managers who were enablers rather than tyrants.

it reminds me of the Lindberg Auburn kit but with a slightly better body.

I believe the yellow car is a 36 Ford convertible made by Monogram (at least the wheels & tires are Monogram). There might be some identifying text cast into the bottom of the model. This thread seems to match the body: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101516-monogram-1936-ford/

T for Two - '25 Ford coupe hot rod - Lindberg - 1/25 scale might be a basic starting shape for the body since it's un-chopped

I "think" I have seen 3D printed U-joints, maybe TDR but don't remember if they were smaller than 1/16 scale. (I just noticed that the post restoration half shafts are different than original build and the Magnaflow exhaust is made much better than the original) Interestingly, I almost used the term "fudge it" in my earlier post... From the one pic I can see the end of the upper control arm, it looks like it could be as simple as a rear suspension link similar that used on Malibu and GTO of late 60's and early 70's. I agree on using brass although there are benefits and problems due to the amount of brackets and spring pads attached to the lower control arms. I have seen some interesting acrylic colors at Michael's and HL, you should be able to get close, although seeing it person in sun light and having some "spray out's" on hand would be optimal, it would seem to be an unlikely option.