blunc

are you putting a resistor on each LED or one resistor for a group of LED's? Or are you using 12v tolerant LED's with the resistor already built in? What type of weatherproofing are you using? You may want to investigate "conformal coating" if you are doing this for customers where you may be liable for unfortunate failures.

I read that the M12 was just a re-bodied Lambo not really a Vector at that point IMHO.

I think I would like to see a definition of "nit picking" (anyone here actually know what a "nit" is without having to look it up?) before commenting in this seeming re-tread thread. Another commonly used name for persons that like to see details portrayed correctly is "rivet counter". I will sometimes comment during in WIP threads, if the builder seems receptive then I tend to follow other WIP's of that builder and share my knowledge / experience when it seems appropriate...if the builder seems to think I'm attacking his work then I tend to make no comments on those builds (whether I am impressed by the build or not). The point I'm trying to make in this rambling sentence is that a builder may miss out on a suggestion that just might make a WIP a "rip-roaring success" rather than something that gets very brief attention and is forgotten immediately...just because the builder got their panties in a bunch over something that wasn't an attack. Now I know there will be a slew of "I only build for me" comments... and that's just fine. I build for me too, sometimes I add a few more "rivets" than some builders here and there are some builders here that have my respect for the time they take to make their own rivets before adding them to their builds. Sometimes there are comments that a build "just looks right" or that the builder "nailed it" with regard to achieving a particular aspect of replicating a style. I have yet to see anyone in this forum comment "that just looks wrong" or "you got close to nailing it...try harder next time"... although I have seen complaints that some posted photos didn't get any comments. Does the builder then have to consider that their work is so lacking in talent or skill that no one will comment for fear of hurting the builders feelings? Give a little thought to this statement... "Complaining about critiques of your models that you have posted to the internet is a waste of your time and mine." (Now if someone in this forum started posting my financial records, then I would be irked.)

Bill is quite correct with the info regarding the coin batteries, when I want them to run longer I use two coin batteries in parallel. If you can use surface mount LED's your batteries should last longer depending on how long you have them on and how many are in the circuit.

the "coin" battery used on computer motherboards to keep the system settings is a 3v battery perfect for this application and you can also buy the socket for these batteries for around $2 at a Fry's or Radio shack. The battery is a CR2032 and will fit easily on most areas of a 1/25 or 1/24 scale model. you can even rob this from a dead computer motherboard if you can unsolder the battery holder without destroying it...it's mostly plastic.

BRAVO! You have an amazing talent for creating real appearing scale replicas.

nice job on a car that should have been allowed to "compete" with the Vette market.

come on guys, this was aimed at chilluns during the 70's and 80's... it was all about the big tires back then. probly sold well enough for them to issue the "neon" and glo-n-the-dark series. I think it should be selected as a "same kit" contest theme just to see what us "advanced builders" can make out of one. I still see these go for ridiculous prices on fleabay due to them being listed as "slot cars"

regarding the door hinges... I think since they will be so visible on a build this large it might be best to fab them like the real hinges but make them out of brass or aluminum shim stock. the tricky part will be maintaining top and bottom hinge alignment. trunk hinges will need to be considered also, you could even make them torsion sprung, the 1:1 assembly is fairly simple.

I agree, there are some very unsympathetic lines to that body mod no matter how well the work was done. I knew a shop that was doing some mods on a truck for a guy that was calling his creation "Mystique"...while everyone in the shop that had to work on it called it "Mistake".

nevermind 100mph, that thing would have been scary at 50mph. I can't help but think the driver and mechanic would have been beat to death by rocks and debris thrown up by the tires. I second that Harry needs to build one of these.

nice grime.

did ya try wearing birkenstock sandals with socks to show her how it looks? nevermind, it will only end badly.

regarding your intake... since it's going to be a "throttle body" type, you could get away with angling the intake assembly downward instead of straight out or angled upwards. this option should clear the frame support tubes and would add a little engine symmetry if the exhaust will be routed out the passenger side of the engine.

this site lists most if not all specs for your Ford: http://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/ford_usa/full-size_ford_8gen/full-size_ford_8gen_galaxie_500_4-door_hardtop/1971.html

if you know where the brake pedal is going to be mounted, that should tell you where the brake vacuum booster will be mounted and the master cylinder gets attached to the brake booster. a rod from the brake pedal pushes a valve in the brake booster which lets engine vacuum amplify the action of the brake pedal...a rod inside the brake booster is what actually makes the master cylinder do it's job.

a tripod helps me a lot with close ups since I've been building 1/32 scale cars.

nice fab on the jet drive, I don't think I've seen a boat model with this type of propulsion and I think it would be impossible to mistake your drive for anything else.

are ya gonna put a hi-performance v16 from a Pyro 1/32 scale Cadillac in it?

time for a Febreeze moment.

I don't have a garage for my Triumph...and my wife is planting trees all around my TR4, I may end up with a permanent Triumph lawn ornament.

here is some info and links to jet drive examples: link to jet drive config: http://www.boattest.com/Resources/view_news.aspx?NewsID=3155 Jet drive linkage example:

thanks for some excellent reference photos.

photo research has shown these engines with straight plug boots, 90-deg boots and no boots at all. if you are trying to replicate the plug wires in your photo, I suggest making your own plugs... drill a hole into plastic rod that you will use as the porcelain part of the plug and insert the bare plug wire (remove the outer insulating layer) with a crisp 90-deg bend into the drilled rod, then drill a hole into some Plastruct hex rod to insert the "porcelain" rod into, mount this into the spark plug holes and complete the paint detailing.

I have a friend that is a professional airbrush artist, he uses CO2 when not at his shop.