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Everything posted by 935k3
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ZYMOL brand will deepen the shine and it smells good because of the coconut oil in it. I use over Future for all my racecars that always have allot of decals.
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Another option that works well Is BIN sealer. Their cans do not spray well though. I decant and airbrush it. Use regular primer first then seal it with BIN.
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I use the clear ammonia straight up. The also sell sudsy ammonia but it does not work as good. Ammonia will take off most of the water based acrylics but it works quicker on Tamiya.
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I forgot to mention there was no Kevlar decal for the seat back. I made pattern with tape and used Scale Motorsport 1/24 yellow weave
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The springs were done by painting the entire section red (TS49)airbrushed I then airbrushed Tamiya X18 acrylic over top. I then used a Q-TIP dipped in ammonia and wiped off the top of the springs. The ammonia will not touch the TS49. The exhaust done by a coat of gloss black, Spaztix chrome, Alclad pale burnt metal. The staining was done with .25mm trip in my Talon using clear blue and yellow acryilc. Tamiya panel line black was used at pipe joints and between pipes.
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In progress pics of the Beemax BMW M3. Chassis and body done in Krylon White Lacquer. The exhaust was done with a base of chrome then some Alclad Pale Burnt Metal. Clear blue and yellow highlights. Brakes are photo etch from the detail set.
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Making exhaust realistic, scratch build or use the kit
935k3 replied to Tim H's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I agree. This exhaust for a racing BMW was done with a base of chrome then some Alclad Pale Burnt Metal. Clear blue and yellow highlights. -
Here is a link for one PS-290 handle They also have all the parts for them. I got my PS-290 from there. They have great service and prices.
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Greatt airbrush. I love mine. You can get a handle for it, The Iwata custom grip handle fits perfectly. It's Iwata quality and solid.
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I am sorry I do not get your question, I don't use nail polish. i was talking about the sanding sticks.
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I am beginning to think there is something strange about this thread. 3 days of replies without any replies from original poster.
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These are the best sanding sticks I have ever used. It's nice to know what grit you are using.
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I just bought and tried some Tru-Color metal colors. They are very good paints. Some of the jars have an evaporation problem and need better sealing. Acetone works great for thinning them.
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A very nice idea for a kit
935k3 replied to aurfalien's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Read about the car here Deval 16 Some people beleive the whole thing is a hoax. It's very controversial -
What do you think of this air compressor?
935k3 replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Looks pretty nice for the price. I wonder how loud it is. -
This one is done. The headlight buckets were not plated, they were panted with Spaztix Chrome(airbrushed). The side number plate had a white decal place under so there would be no red bleed through. See WIP here EVO 5 WIP
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Carbon fiber decals....help!!
935k3 replied to carmad1957's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You may have some of the older sheets that had a cracking problem. Post apicture of the packages they came in. I can tell if their old or new.Maybe should try the ones from Studio 27 all their decals are great. The old then the new -
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Tamiya 1/24 Mazda Savanna RX-7 - 1st Generation Rotary Rocket
935k3 replied to Italianhorses's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Where do you get TESA tape? I have some old rolls of their cloth tape I use for seatbelts. I have not found anyplace to get it. It seems to be sold to industries only. I just realized you are in Germany where it is made. I cannot find an online place to buy it. -
Good start. You need the detail set for the correct tobacco markings also.
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Fujimi 1/24 BMW Z4 GT3 Presentation Version
935k3 replied to Italianhorses's topic in WIP: Model Cars