Muncie

but... if they have been tooled once, new Revell should have the data sets to make new tooling. These parts are far superior to the same parts in the old Tweedy Pie tooling. That section of the original tooling is worn out.

Looking good Mike. A little more work slimming down the molding on the fender and I think you have it. That shape is really subtle on the full size cars. The '55 Bel Airs had the chrome over the peak on the front fender and on the door, the 150 and 210 Chevys did not. Revell chose to mold it in but did not detail it on the box art.

Great tip, thanks - I found some white pepper at the grocery store in the spice section. Potent fragrance and smells bad... really bad, but I only had to put enough down in a small area for a dog to smell. Didn't affect the lawn. Been out there for a week and nothing left by the dogs

Randy, you are going to have to patent the MBW machine that you use to enlarge the Maserati to work on it and then shrink it to 1/24 scale... Amazing workmanship and photography, heck, it would be amazing even at a larger scale - Saw this at NNL West and folks this is a tiny car!

Ahrgh, I can't get that link to work either - try Slixx Decals Inc. and enter 1/18 in the search box. They also have some 1/16 contingency decal sheets that may work for the small decals.

Slixx has a few - eCatalog Order Ordering System for Slixx Decals (ecsvr.com)

hmmmm, thinking out loud - if the successor to old Revell has the tire molds, we'll see new tires in the Atlantis McEwen kit... might be a good thing. The old tires were good, but kind of dated for the funny car kits. if they are better, I hope Atlantis is planning some new parts packs.

What an incredible model. What everybody else has already said - it was amazing to watch the transformation from what you started with. The diorama catches the moment precisely in appearance, technical detail, and emotion. Outstanding!

A couple of straight edges and a handful of square blocks are good to have on hand to line things up.

The closest that you may find is the intake manifold from a 1980's, 1990's Monogram NASCAR Chevrolet. Similar port spacing and manifold runner shape in scale. it would take a little carving to make a valley cover look this good but shouldn't be too difficult.

The magneto in the Revell funny car kits is a Mallory Super Mag 1. The Super Mag transformer (coil) is separate - Revell molded it into the front of the block on the RH side of the front cover. The transformer connects to the center terminal of the cap. I don't think this is detailed in the instructions. more detailed copies of the Mallory wiring diagram and instructions are on the web. probably a lot on the HAMB photo from ebay -

Except you? definitely keep some of the favorites and all of the tools. There are a couple of shops near(?) here that get most of their model car inventory from collections. I doubt that they pay much but they do have to cover their overhead and rent. On the selling side, they do charge reasonable prices. Both say they need more model cars but most of the available collections are airplanes, more airplanes, and still more airplanes. They also buy/sell hobby related books and magazines.

Thanks Tim, I always enjoy your annual Columbus album.

Oh my, I learned to drive in a 1960 Dodge Seneca wagon, kind of the opposite end of the Dart line from the Polara convertible. I remember that dashboard and the see-thru speedometer with the mirror on the dash. Space age styling at its most unique. I've been following and enjoying your project. Excellent building and looking fantastic!

The other thing that might be misleading about this without more information is that most of the original Revell part pack engines, wheels, roadster frames and both chassis equipment parts packs were chromed. in the double dragster kits, only the engines were chrome. Either way is OK for me so I'll wait until I see one.

that's what I'm thinking, but no hurry - will wait for the kit to hit the shelves. hate to see Atlantis raked over the coals for misinformation that came from other places.

Is this information from Atlantis?

I agree Lacquer is dry when the solvents in the thinner have evaporated. if dry lacquer is dampened with a rag soaked in thinner, the solvents in the thinner will start to soften the paint and you will get color on the rag. You can actually make a dry lacquer from a can into ready to spray again with enough thinner. If new lacquer is sprayed over old, the thinner in the new paint will soften the surface of the old paint makes the new paint grip better. not a pro, but have been using acrylic lacquer on a lot of my model cars for a long time.

thank you for posting the pics - that's cool! I like it.

Good old dark gray cast iron for the block, iron or aluminum for the heads. Some racers may have painted the engine but most preferred not to. It made repairs easier because the block didn't have to be hot tanked to remove the paint before any machine work was done. Some racers preferred aluminum heads because they could be modified easier and welded if it became necessary to make major repairs or they desired the heat transfer of aluminum. The Keith Black aluminum block was developed in 1973 but was rare and too expensive for the first couple of years. - most racers were still using genuine Mopar cast iron late model hemi. The chassis should be gloss black. The chassis was welded from chrome-moly 4130 steel. In the early 1970's, funny cars were still seeing some car show duty so appearance was important. Later on, chassis were left in bare metal to make repairs at the track easier for broken tubing or welds. In the early 1970's, funny car chassis were painted - sometimes to a show car finish. The chassis tins and fuel tank are anodized green - a very similar color to the body hope this helps,

Well done - straight and true. You're hired!

Miles, one other thing you can do is run a couple of layers of tape along the line to help guide the saw. I run a piece of tape a on the area to be cut out - works real good if I'm taking out a cut with parallel edges - if I have the right width tape I can get two parallel lines. Then I put a double layer against both edges and remove the tape over the piece in the middle that I'm cutting out. Ends up with a good guide for the saw with two lines lines and the pieces I'm saving are protected

Hakan, excellent summary, well done - lots of information and very concisely said.

Young guy about 20, shoulder length hair, mini back pack walking through the neighborhood with his dog about 5 pm yesterday. Dog was a lab pup, nice looking dog and acted pretty intelligent for a young dog Saw them around the corner from my house with dog resting in the shade of a fence. I drove around the block to park across the street from my house - I have been watering my lawn a lot to get grass seed started in some bare spots. They have reached my yard and the dog is walking across my lawn - kind of get annoyed for a moment thinking oh great, he's going to let the dog do its business in my yard... Then I realize what's happening and the dog is the smart one. It's been 80 degrees and it's just too hot to walk on the street or sidewalk, I talk to the guy and say "you are hurting your dog." He says "what" "your dog can't walk on the hot street" He says "we just took a rest" "I know, I saw you around the corner" I explain rest is not a problem but heat is hurting his dog. We discuss it a bit and they move on. Really a case of dumb owner with smart dog. I don't think he realized that I cared more about the dog than him. I'm not a dog owner, but I like other people's dogs. I go in the house and get the infrared thermometer. Concrete in the shade in my driveway is 100 degrees. Asphalt in the shade is 108, concrete sidewalk is 120 in the sun. Asphalt in the street is 130. Fifty degrees more than the air temperature! I drove around the neighborhood looking for them, but didn't see them. It was 80 degrees yesterday, it will be over 100 for three days this weekend.

All good advice - The putty is one of the layers that is shrinking. Best to use as little putty as possible. Drilling out the hole to fill it, means more putty, more putty means more shrinking. The same thing is happening with the plastic rod and plastic weld - the more plastic weld means longer for the plastic to dry. I've had that show up months later on parts that I thought were thoroughly dry. Same can happen with sprue goo if it's applied too thick. After some previous experiences, I avoid sprue goo... Plastic weld or the Tamiya's super thin is best when used sparingly and give it plenty of time to dry before moving on. On the sanding block - no need for anything fancy to hold the sandpaper on the block. Just a piece of sandpaper big enough to wrap around the block.