Muncie

agreed - taking customer service to a new level.

here's a pic - by the mid-70's, in the Monza funny car era, the Mallory Super Mag II magneto was the most popular ignition in funny car and top fuel. Mallory mags used an external coil (transformer) The Super Mag II had a regular socket terminal cap. Plug wire retainers came later. The magneto in the '70's Revell kits is a nice part, the coil is molded as part of the engine block behind the blower drive.

consider using the four link suspension from another kit - the Rherer-Morrison Camaro pro-stock would be a good donor - it has an accurate four link suspension with the narrowed Ford 9 inch rear axle with good detail. It also has the wheel tubes and chassis to work with the four link. Just cut the back half of the chassis off, trim to fit, and swap it with the stock chassis. Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but it works.

Whoopie Kat Decals - http://whoopiekatdecals.com/

Contest rules vary so much that it is difficult to say. I'm going to go out on a limb and say most curbside contests don't require an engine except for any part that may be visible with the hood closed. - common sense I guess. The oil pan and underside of the engine that would be visible from the side with four wheels on the ground should also be finished. Some builders leave the rest of the underside unfinished and some I've seen have been pretty rough. I try to make the underside at least look finished even if there is no chassis or suspension - I know it's there.

8 lug? could it be 6-1/2"? it appears everything popular 8 lug is 6-1/2" bolt circle - Ford, GM, Dodge http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/wheel-bolt-pattern-cross-reference-database.asp#axzz4sViYTR82

Chris, thank for another great review - you're correct, never owned one but drove a buddy's Z28 to Billings Mt and back in a long weekend - 1800 miles, Friday afternoon to Sunday evening - the things we did when we were younger. Round 2 may have never had the right vintage tires in their inventory - the original issue of the kit came with the Polyglas GT Goodyears - correct for size, but the wrong tire for 1983. I robbed the kit for the wheels to build a model of my S10. other parts eventually drifted into other projects. Never thought I'd see this kit reissued, good to have it back.

there may be others but take a look at M & S hobbies - http://www.mshobbies.com/ - they are always a vendor at the NNL West.

There is no disagreement - we're talking about different things. Telescoping sections of tubing can be used can be used to locate and drill a hole in the center in the end of a rod - no doubt here. I like the ideas that have been posted and they answer the important "how to " question in the first post. Just adding some information to identify the tool in the link on the first post. It's a different tool that is used to transfer the mounting hole locations from a bracket to a bulkhead and drill a specific size hole for the hardware. There is a cone at the end of the tool that fits into the hole on a bracket to locate the drill. It's a strange spring loaded device with one function. I ended up with one in a closeout grab bag that had some things I needed at the LHS. Figured out what ii was but no use for it. difference is - one tool locates from the outside diameter of a rod, the other locates from the inside diameter of a mounting hole.

I've noticed that this is an old thread. The tool in the original post is not described very well on the web link but it is for transferring a mounting hole in a model aircraft engine bracket to a flat bulkhead. It would be of little use for finding the center of the end of a rod piece of rod. However, we have a great forum here that has supplied several good methods that will get the job done.

Mike, good to know, I like that! another good vendor I enjoy going to Coast when I'm in southern California - its a cool store, but I've also ordered paint from Scale Finishes

Coast Airbrush in Anahiem can do HOK in small sizes, I believe two oz. is the smallest, great people and customer service, interesting place, they can also set you up with the reducers and clears http://www.coastairbrush.com/

They were thinking about closing at the end of last year, but reorganized and downsized a bit instead - they were open a couple of months ago. It may be worth a phone call unless a person has other reasons to go thru Albany. ------ update - Good catch Gerry, thank you for the follow-up, sometimes things change quickly and I was not up to date.. Their web site shows ASA in Albany closed the doors at the end of July. They will be missed

Craig, If you get to Powell's Books, a great art supply store is a short walk away. Blick Art has lots of things that can be used for building model cars - paints, markers, tools, materials.... Might have to check to see what is allowed on the airplane. Powell's is at 10th and Burnside, Blick is at 11th and NW Glisan. This is the alphabet district - the streets in order are Burnside, Couch, Davis, Everett, Flanders, Glisan.

Craig, Tammies in Beaverton Hobbytown in SE Portland (Happy Valley) - not the one in Wilsonville Hillsboro Hobbies in Hillsboro Coyote Hobbies in Oregon City ASA Hobbies in Albany has old kits These shops have a decent assortment of current kits and paints, but little aftermarket or old kits. Frankly, I'd spend more time on your Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives list. Micro breweries are big in Portland and most have great food with good prices. Now for the interesting stuff - Beaches Cruise In every Wednesday evening at Portland International Raceway thru the end of September - Average is about 600 cars, could be 200 if it rains or if it is over 100 degrees - on a good night late in September, it will be over 2000 cars. Live music, Food is good there and it also includes the 1/8 mile grudge drag racing, Hot Rods, Pre-1973 and Corvettes get in, outside parking and shuttle for the civilian cars. World of Speed Museum in Wilsonville - Muscle cars are the featured display right now, but plenty of race cars as well, big collection of Mickey Thompson cars. Easily worth the short drive from Portland. Hope you have a great trip and get a chance to look around

agree with all of the comments and possibilities above - it could be any of these things or a combination plus bonus one more possibility - there may be contamination or moisture in the air supply - (it's happening on multiple projects so that's kind of a clue) - drain the tank, check the filter and maybe add something to take moisture out of the air. Basements are tricky because they can pickup moisture thru the walls from the ground.

yep, it was a cool model, very well done and looked good. I remember the custom license plate said "I know" Welded parts to a Corvette body - no problem here. just needs a good story about a very rare steel bodied Corvette or something like that. I also say go for it! more - Jimmy Flintstone has some figures that may be appropriate - an alternative parts source for interesting tires would be the toy section a the local Walmart, K Mart, Target or wherever toys are found

Long, long ago, when I was working at my high school job in a local hardware store... and spending my earnings on my first car... I kept every receipt and added them up long before it was running. I had a general idea of the number based on the parts that I had bought but the nuts & bolts, elec terminals, wire, tape, sand paper, paint, misc... added up to more than the real parts. All together, it was a lot more than I thought... So I did the reasonable thing and stopped adding up receipts.

Well done Excellent, detailed post as well

Revell also tried plating some chrome trees in different colors, gold, red, blue, etc, Hey, it was the 60's - None made it into packages for sale but a few of the prototype trees are out there.

Guess I'm going against the grain here or missing the point... Round Two is not reissuing kits for the group that doesn't want them... I think they also make tanks and ships and planes and I'm good with that - I'm not interested but there are other people that want them. For me the reissued kits fill a hole in my model building hobby. The new plastic is easy to work with and beats some of the issues with flexible or brittle materials that didn't take paint well. - and most of them are molded in white. It's much more fun to work with the current reissue. The reissues have filled in missing parts for some of my old rebuilds. The current reissues have the best tires and decals that these kits have ever had. Parts that we haven't seen in years have been restored to the tooling. I wouldn't change a thing they are doing.

Chuck, I also agree 1, 2,3,4, and 5 - except I'll use the big block in something. A kit with lots of potential. anybody have the secret to removing the redline from the wheels?

just some thoughts - Krylon has a satin poppy red, it may be too bright but even Walmart has it.. Michaels' and Hobby Lobby have a lot of paints with different texture and sheen - probably something there that will work. bBlick art supplies stores also have some deluxe, but spendy Montana Can paints- huge variety of colors and gloss. Hope this helps

flying or driving? driving - I just have a cut down copy paper box - the large size with the slip on lid with the box cut down to the height of the lid - about 4"high.. I put microfiber towels on the bottom, loosely around the models, and on top of the models under the lid. not wrapped. Of course it gets special handling so nothing gets put on top.. flying - I usually take only one or two models in a cardboard box that will fit in my carry-on backpack. I lined the box with foamcore for reinforcement,. pack the models with microfiber towels. It's light weight and has taken quite a bit of abuse without damage to the contents.

not a Ford guy - but good to see the Bill Ireland decals - he was a well known racer around here - will have to get a set of decals and do something with it