DPNM

Even more about airbrushes: The double actions usually have three needle choices. Paasche offers 1,3 and 5 I believe. Go with the 5 as it is the largest and will spray higher viscosity fluids. I am most familiar with the Paasche, the other brands should be similarly numbered. Some airbrush kits have the different sizes included. Also, if he should make a mistake and have to strip the paint I use Purple Power. It doesn't work on flat black (at least for me) but it is fairly (somewhat, sorta kinda) safe. I do wear latex gloves and eye protection. One thing on latex gloves, some may leave a residue on the model. It's best to wash any contaminates off with the gloves on then wash again with your (his) bare hands. You (he) have to wash your hands first as the oil from your skin may contaminate to item to be painted. Actually the painting part is the easiest. It's prepping the item that is more difficult. Your original post says he's mentioned airbrushes. Has he been specific? I would shop online to find the best price on an airbrush and compressor although you may be running out of time.

More about airbrushes: there are 3 different styles. Siphon feed, gravity feed and side feed. Siphon feed has the paint bottle under the airbrush, gravity feed has the paint in the top and side feed has the jar on the side (go figure). I would suggest either a siphon feed or gravity feed. Most side feeds I am aware of are more for inks not higher viscosity material like auto paint. I own quite a few airbrushes. I collect them. I have one gravity feed but I've never used it so I have no experience to tell you on them. He may have to learn to look "around" the gravity feed jar so I've heard. Guide: Single action/siphon feed: Paasche H1 Badger 200 series Binks Wren Double action/siphon feed: Paasche VL series Badger 150 Iwata BCS Double action/gravity feed: Paasche TG series Badger 100 series Iwata HP-CS All these company's offer lower and higher quality airbrushes. What I listed should be considered about the middle of the road. Also, when you look for a compressor try to find one that is somewhat quiet. You will be glad you did.

Couple other things, he can use SuperGlue also. It's available in tube and brush-on. It will work gluing painted pieces. He has to be careful putting them together though as it dries fast. To use the model cement I mentioned he has to scrape the paint/plating from the pieces to get the pieces to bond. Not as strong a hold but I would suggest Elmers white glue (or similar) for gluing clear pieces (windshields/glass). It dries clear and will not mar the piece. Excess can be cleaned up with water, on a Q-Tip etc while it is still wet.

You should be able to find an airbrush/compressor in that price range depending on what it is. I would suggest buying a name brand. Badger (as mentioned), Paasche, Iwata are a few that come to mind. I use a Binks Wren (single action). Name brands being better when he needs to buy spare/replacement parts. Determine which to buy, single or double action. Single action should be less expensive. Amazon is Ok if you don't have a local hobby store or other place I mentioned. I do not know which kit interests him. As an aside, I assumed him to be auto related. If he wants to do planes or military (and ships too probably) he will need to buy flat (not gloss) paint. You may also find airbrushes (used and new) on your local craigslist. My suggestion of small drill bits, he would need a good pin-vice also.

Welcome to the forum. It's cool you want to do this. For basics he will need an X-Acto knife (or similar) with at least a #11 blade (a kit would be better but I do not know your budget), Testors sells two different containers of liquid cement, one is a brush on bottle the other is in a black container and has a long neck/applicator, do not use tube glue, sandpaper-I'd recommend wet or dry for painting, at least 600 to 1200 grit (should be able to find a variety pack at any auto parts store), masking tape, a variety of small clamps (clothes-pins work), small paint brushes, maybe a small set of files, depending on his age and eye sight, a magnifier ( I use a head piece but I'm old), a good light to see with, small drill bits, decal solvents, at least a 6" ruler (I use a small square as it can be used as a straight edge). As far as an airbrush goes, there are two types. Single action and double action. Single action is like a can of spray paint, you push down on the trigger and get paint and air. Double action is when you push straight down on the lever and get only air. When you pull the trigger back it sprays the material. The further back, the more material. Double action is a bit harder to use until you get used to it. I would recommend auto paint and primer. I prefer Dupli-Color. It comes in a LOT of colors (any auto parts store also). Whatever you choose try to make sure the primer, base coat and clear coat are from the same MFG or he may run into compatibility issues. I've had good success spraying from the can. A small compressor that (in my opinion) has at least 35 psi should be good (with a regulator). Look for one with auto- shutoff. He will need a good place to paint. The fumes from lacquer or enamel can be strong. Water based paint not so much. A small paint booth directed outside would help. Most of the non auto parts store related items should be available at any hobby store or places like Hobby Lobby, Michael's. Walmart, etc. I'm sure there are things I've over looked and others here will help.

Not today but I recently got this off feeBay. I've been looking for one for a while. I'd be embarrassed to say what I paid. It's soaking in Purple Power at the moment. It had 3 different colors on it. The top coat is some kind of funky paint. Once it started to come off the rest is stripping easily (for the most part). Mostly complete, parts from the '62 should get me most of what I need. I'm looking for an AMT kit, prefer one of the white ones.

I plan to do my first attempt at a die-cast redo. There are a couple things I need to cover before I start the build post. First and fore-most, I want to thank Jordan White for giving me the Warlock to make this build from. He also shipped it to me on his dime. I cannot thank him enough. It was very kind of him to do and it is something I intend to do for someone else. Second, I am very anal when I build. That is why I got away from modelling. I want to keep adding features. I am going to try not to do that on this build so I don't just put it away and forget about it. Third, there are a few things that I need. I would like to find the 5 slot mags (wheels/tires/backs) from the 1/18 Dodge Lil Red Truck die-cast. I plan to repaint the model and also need someone who can make the gold decals in 1/18th. At present I do not have the 1/25th scale version of these decals for a decal maker to use for reference. I need to have them modified also (there are decals on the 1/25 sheet I don't want but there are things I want that aren't on it). If you have the wheels/tires/backs or can make the decals please PM me to discuss. I have stuff I can trade or ? Fourth, I work a lot and I have a 1 to 1 scale project I am working on so I will post when I have some stuff worth posting. There may be delays. OK then, let's get underway. I started on the interior. I am posting one of the reference pics I'm using. It's a '79 and my model is a '78 but I believe they are the same. I owned a '78 2wd Warlock "back in the day" and as of now this is the only way I can own one at the present time. I started by cutting off the seat frame to narrow it as there is more seat "over hang" than the model has. I also cut the arm-rest away. I was going to try to make the arm-rest move up and down but after spending hours trying to design it to work right I gave up. Too anal. I will glue it in the down position. One thing that has struck me as being poor, the gas/brake and parking brake pedals are molded into the floor??? How cheap/cheesy is that? 1/24-1/25 usually at least have separate pieces attached to the dash!!! This issue will be rectified by my next post. Pics:

You are doing a good job on this. I built one of these for my brother when the kit was first released. My brother had a '68 400 back in the day. It had a vinyl top. I made the one for his model with the facial tissue method. I have not looked at the model I gave him lately to see how it's held up though.

Just had a great trade with afx. Excellent trader!!!

EXCELLENT!!! Amazing!!! Great build!!!This car is Awesome!!! I really like the work you put into this.

No resolutions either but my plan is to sell the models I know I will never get to and start on another hobby.

Lee, If you click the link in my first post on this subject it seems to me you can reference putting items on eModelCars. Maybe I'm wrong. If I am correct it may have been the best way for people to draw potential buyers and the site would have more listings than it does or, then again, maybe it is aliens???

I am giving it a try. If it works correctly the auctions should end on Saturday, January 3rd. It is a short window of opportunity. I started my auctions at a lower cost than if I would have listed them on eBay. If you feel they are priced too high that is your opinion. I believe that the pricing is fair. I'll see how this goes and may put more items on later or just say the ***heck*** with it.

To all that have responded so far, I appreciate your input. I would only list items at the same price that I would if I were putting them on feeBay. I have a pretty good idea of what they are worth and that is the price I would go with. I'm not trying to rip someone off nor do I want to lose money. I feel that my prices would be fair and for the most part sell on feeBay. I usually offer free shipping with my items and that is what I would do on this site. As the buyer I would hope that people would understand that part of my shipping cost is included in the starting price. I would also offer a "bundle" discount if someone was interested in buying more than one item. That is possible because of having no seller fees. It would be nice if there was more interest in the site. Being that we aren't allowed to sell on the forum I, for one, was unsure if I could mention my listings on the MCM forum for items I would list on emodelcars. That, to me, would be/is the best way to draw interest to the site in general and my listings in particular . I may just give it a go. My user name on eModelCars is the same as it is here.

I need some quick cash and I want to sell off some of my models. The usual way I would do this is list them on feeBay but, as you can see by what I call it, I am tired of paying their HIGH seller fees. Does anyone on here look at emodelcars? It is a small site like the giant one but it seems that the stuff on it has been there a long time. It's sad as there is a tab for it at the top of the forum page. It could become huge if more people read/used it. And it's free!!! As said, I need my cash quick so I'm not sure that emodelcars would be the place to post them unfortunately. I prefer not to list them on feeBay either. I have read most of this thread (I couldn't take it all, too much bickering and whining) http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70679&hl=emodelcars and it seems that if I do post my items for sale on emodelcars that I can mention in this thread that they are listed and anyone interested can go there to see them. I am not selling on the MCM forum, just referencing emodelcars. Is this correct, I can reference?

WOWZER !!! I may be presuming too much but my guess is you got your user name from your ex . Nice collection and it's cool to see you got the bun size dog.

Excellent!!!

Being we are referencing dictionary terms I would suggest this one when you wish to comment on another members build. tact [takt] noun 1. a keen sense of what to say or do to avoid giving offense; skill in dealing with difficult or delicate situations. If you want to offer helpful advice by all means do. An explanation of how to do it would/could be useful. If you just want to criticize without trying to help the builder improve it seems to me it would be best not to comment. I have seen plenty of builds here where the builder is praised even though, in my opinion, it doesn't deserve it (bad/orange-peel paint etc). I have also seen builders raked over the coals for small details of omission or addition. When I find a build I like I comment on it positively. I do not think that I've ever posted a negative comment on a build but that is by choice, because I choose not to. Usually any negative comments I would make have already been posted by someone else so I do not need to pile on. Criticism can be a good thing, depending on how it's given. Just my 2 cents.

I was born in 1955 so I am only going by my memory and a 8mm home movie we had. My dad had a 1956 Corvette that I know he purchased new (I mention it in a different thread). He had a 1958-1960 Thunderbird (it was in a 8mm home movie). I remember riding in it once as I put my hand out the window at a gas station and my Dad closed it. My hand got stuck as the window had to go all the way up before it would go back down. He wasn't happy. I also remember that he had a Chevy pick up at the same time. There were two instances I remember about it. One, he had thrown a match that he lit a cigarette with out the wing window and it went around the front and burned my brothers cheek when it came back in the passengers window. Also, I remember my Dad hitting the brakes hard once and my brothers face bounced off the dash and his front teeth went through his bottom lip. Come to think of it that truck must not have been fond of my brother :-) It might not have been 1957 specifically but it had to be around that time period.

IIRC the recently redesigned VW Beetle was done to make it look less like a "girl's" car.

Excellent !!!

1956 Corvette. My Dad's car. I got to drive it ONCE. I drove it to where I worked, at 7:00 AM, in the rain, with him in the car. I sat in the car a gazillion hours as a kid. 1960s Cadillacs. Also my Dad's cars. He had 5 at one point. The cars I learned to drive in. 1967 Cougar. My first car. 1967 Covette Coupe. 427 car with a 350ci transplant before I got it. Auto trans. 2 speed, low and go. Also a 1966 Corvette convertible. A true 396 car with a 4 speed. 1978 Dodge D100 short bed/step side 2wd pickup. It was black with the Warlock gold striping and wood bed stakes. It also had side pipes and a custom tonneau cover. Datsun 240/260/280 Z and ZXs. I had a multitude of them and these are when I learned to drive quickly. One I had was set up for gymkhana/autocross. I can also corner. I learned to love turns in the road. Volvos. Ive had a couple from the mid '80s and I am always keeping my eye out for the next. A 245 wagon.

Uli, I sent you a PM. Bob, I don't understand how they could leave the rocker bolts off in this scale either. They are easy enough to replicate although it shoulda been done by the mfg. I have the Sportster frame soaking in the purple pond. Gonna get it ready to hack and whack.

Shawn, Being you haven't specified a scale it's sort of an open ended question to me. I think Ray seems to figure you are talking 1/12th scale and your reply seems to concur. No matter the scale, for the most part, you may be able to find something you can use from a die-cast or die-cast and plastic motorcycle. Wal-mart, Ollies and most any major department store might be worth looking at. You might try the clearance aisle first.

This is one of my all time favorite F-1 cars and you did a STUNNING job on it. Excellent workmanship.