Peter Lombardo

Nice grouping, I really like the Porsche 924 and the McLaren best, but all very well done.

Great builds, you had a busy year for sure.

Wow, well done, but you might consider getting a life away from your modelling table. 31 builds is just plain nuts. Wow!

All well done, but the Hudson is especially beautiful. The paint work is fabulous.

Both the Buick and the setting look great, well done.

You have been busy. A very diverse group of projects. If forced to say, I really like the Chevy wagon and the Charger best.

Wow. all really well done. but the custom Impala and the camper are stellar. Great year of builds.

Great looking Caddies. Long, smooth and very well done.

1970 Trans Am Rivals Last 2 builds of 2022 Revell 1970 Mustang Boss 302 built as the Bud Moore Trans Am race car. Doors and trunk opened, wheel arches bulged, engine rebuilt with scratch built induction, roll gage added, fuel cell and trunk detail added, R & M Minilite wheels, decals from 5 sources, and custom Tamiya paint and trim. AMT 1970 ½ full bumper Camaro Z28 built as Jim Hall Trans Am race car. Doors and trunk opened, wheel arches bulged, R & M Minilite wheels, engine rebuilt and under hood ram air tunnel added, roll gage added, fuel cell and trunk detail added, decals from Pattos Place from Australia, and rattle can refrigerator white paint.

1973 Camaro Rally Sport 350

Very nice job. I am suddenly into Trans Am race cars. Well done.

Can't add anything here that hasn't already been said, well done, great conversion. It looks like the 3D printing of parts and actual whole cars is/has going to set the industry on its ear. Well done and a beautiful paint job.

Yup, I agree, very well done. It is such a great looking race car and you did it justice. I have built one in a different livery and have two more in the stash to build with one in the colors you did, if it comes out looking similar to yours, I will be happy. Again, well done.

Excellent build. Very clean and precise with superb under hood detail. Black is difficult to get looking as clean and smooth as you have accomplished here. Very well done.

Beautifully executed on so many, levels. Superb styling cues and super smooth paint, it just doesn't get any better. Bravo, Bravo!

Very interesting subject, very well done, I love the continuous colors on all of the track equipment, clearly a lot of work went into this, excellent job.

I just saw this post, and I apologize for "stepping on it", but many, many years ago I built this same car except I converted it back to the actual car that Penske ran back then. I started with two kits. One was a very poor kit, I think it was marketed by Essex, that had a very "loose" interpolation of the body, but it did have a nice engine, which I used. The body was from a version by Italeri, I think, which I heavily modified into the version as run by the Penske guys. I just wanted to show the correct version of the car since there has been conversation about it.

Thanks, I appreciate the comment as I strive to always reach a new level and do something new that I haven't done before. Thanks again for seeing what I was attempting to do.

Looks great, I really love the charcoal paint with the black super sport stripes, a great combination. These cars have a solid place in my heart since my first new car purchase was a '73 Rally Sport 350 which I wish I still owned today. Nice build, very clean. I just started work on this kit, but mine will be the Number 1, Jim Hall Trans Am Camaro Chaparral in white with the metallic blue center stripe to go with my Bud Moore Mustang Trans Am that I am finishing up on..

Excellent workmanship, these are very convincing replicas. I have many Cobras, but no Tigers, seeing yours, I think I need to get one into my collection. Nice work, Well Done.

Thanks guys, glad to see that you appreciate all the work and thought that went into the build as it is far from "Box Stock". Thanks, I really do appreciate the kind words.

Tamiya Ford Mustang GT4 Like most of the more experienced modelers here, I truly respect the kits offered by Tamiya. They are so well engineered that they almost fall together with little help from the modeler. I am especially drawn to their racing car line, both 1/24th and 1/20th F1 kits (I built a number of the 1/12th kits back in the 70’s which I am sadly no longer in possession of today). So when I saw they were about to release their 1/24th scale kit of the Mustang GT4 I was all ready to jump on it. That was, until I realized that it was offered without an engine (sadly, as most of their newer kits are) and the livery, as offered, bored me to tears. I lost interest in the kit right there on the spot. One day, not too long ago while searching for aftermarket decal sets on SpotModel.com for my Audi R8 GT3 and BMW M6 and M8 GT3 kits, I stumbled upon a decal set for the Tamiya Mustang GT4 that really caught my interest. It represents the Academy Motorsport GT4 as raced at the British GT Brands Hatch race in 2020. I immediately placed a set of these decals in my cart. Now I needed to procure the kit, which I did, and then set about researching the actual car on the internet to see what, if any, modifications would be necessary to the base kit. Instantly it became clear that the Academy version was sporting a set of front and rear wheel opening extended arch flares. (actually, I saw pictures of the car both with and without the wheel flares, but because they make the car more unique, I wanted to model the vehicle with the flares) I considered scratch building them for a few minutes, but after a search of an old Fujimi kit from 2018 I picked up somewhere, of “Over Fender Set 1” (the only English on the box) I found a very close match for the necessary fender flares. They were modified accordingly to fit this application and installed. Next, I opened and hinged the doors, which was relatively easy, but I was stumped as to whether or not to attempt an engine installation which would require the hood to be opened. My son has 3 3D printing machines (different materials and different uses) so I thought about finding the files so we could print the components for the Voodoo 5.2 V8. While searching for them, I stumbled across “Iceman Collections” who offer a wide variety of resin engines from 3D mastered pieces. They offer the Ford Coyote 5.2 GT4 engine in 1/24th scale which is the perfect fit for this car and is a beautiful casting with plenty of detail, so I saved time and just ordered it. (A little side note here, I am referring to the 5.2 engine here as a Coyote, because Iceman has, but in reality, it is a Voodoo 5.2 engine. There is basically no outside difference far as the eye can see as the main difference is internal, primarily with the shape of the crankshaft and a higher top end, but for the model I am building, I’ll just refer to it as a Coyote, besides, I like the sound of the name). I opened the hood and hinged it, which created an issue. Without the molded on hood the front fenders had a tendency to spread apart more than is acceptable so a remedy for this had to be found. I found an old firewall from one of my parts boxes and modified it for the installation of the oil canister which is mounted on the right hand side. I scratch built the chassis side rails and the front cover over the radiator. I installed a radiator with the overspill tank and an oil radiator up front and plumbed both. The engine was built up and plumbed without the supplied bell housing and transmission. I cut free the kit supplied units and mounted them to the resin engine block as they were the proper length to mate up to the driveshaft more correctly. I needed to modify the bottom of the oil pan to fit snugly into the front suspension from the kit. Unfortunately, the kit supplied tie-rod was a casualty of the engine install, unless I wanted to “channel” 1960s AMT kits with a hole through the engine block, so an alternate system needed to be constructed. First I ground off the kit locating pins where the kit tie rod connected to the rotor. I cemented a bit of aluminum tubing to the front of the brake rotor. Then I formed a new tie rod out of brass rod. I then cut out a channel where the tie rod could slide in the chassis center and then the front chassis skid plate would cover it and keep it from falling out. Very simple and easy. The body was primed and then lightly sanded. Then a coat of Tamiya Gloss White was applied around the lower section of the body and up over the hood areas where the white stripes appear. Once dry, these were masked off with a combination of the decal packet supplied and masking tape to protect the white areas where the white decals would be applied later. The base coat on the entire body is a custom mix of Tamiya Gloss White with a touch of Tamiya Gloss Black to create a very light Gray. Once dry, Tamiya Gloss Black was airbrushed over the nose of the car and then faded into the gray on the back half of the car. Once sufficiently dry, the top section of the car was masked off and gloss black was sprayed on the lower section, below where the white accent stripe is. The decals were applied as per the instruction sheet that came with them. I used the kit supplied decals to fill in where needed. I used Tamiya Carbon Fiber decal sheets for the areas that have exposed carbon fiber panels like the dashboard, inside door panels, front, back, lower side diffusers, between the tail lights, and the mirrors cutting the pieces to fit by eye. Using a miniature router bit in my Dremel, I grinded out the inner material of the front grille and the three lower openings and then cemented in a black mesh screen. The wheels were painted Tamiya Light Gunmetal and when dry the colored red and green decal markings were applied, touched up with paint. The tires were mounted and manufacturer identification decals were applied. I cut the side windows apart and removed the upper location tab. The black window surrounds were painted flat black on the inside after the kit supplied masking tape was applied. The back side windows were cemented in and the side windows were secured to the doors with 5-minute epoxy. The interior was detailed with hoses and wiring as per the pictures I found on the internet. I created the webbing to the right of the driver seat out of very thin plastic strips painted flat black. I replaced the decal seat belts with fabric and photoetched ones. The final two extra items were the installation of two front splitter support rods and the addition of the open hood support rod that pivots open and closed. The final touch was a coat of future floor finish to add a little gloss, but not too much to the paint and to even out the decal finish. The real car has a little shine, but not excessive. That’s it. here with a couple of older brothers

The color is perfect on this car, just beautiful. Great job on an old kit, it looks really fresh and ready for the street today. I really like this one.

Super clean. The paint is beautiful. Very well done, as usual.