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Nacho Z

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Everything posted by Nacho Z

  1. It has been many years since I used it but I remember mine didn’t stick very well and did not burnish down as nice as regular BMF. Again, this was many years ago. It may be better now. I don’t have any memory about the black rubbing off.
  2. Last WIP post. I worked on other details but did not take a lot of photos. I painted up the hood emblem. Monogram's box art is incorrect. A quick Google search had plenty of nice detail shots. For some reason I had trouble getting a good picture of my emblem. Here is a shot of what I call a poor man's wheel alignment jig. There is some distortion in this picture but I assure you it is pretty dang square. The hood pins are just molded in blobs with a little pin that sticks up. If you try to BMF foil this the way it is, the BMF will not lay down flat. I punched discs of BMF and then drilled little holes in the middle. I applied the BMF and then touched up the pin with Molotow. I also installed the glass.
  3. Once the body was polished out I began the laborious task of applying BMF. It is a bit nerve racking. If the blade slips, you have just screwed up all of that beautiful paint. If you cut into the BMF, you have to reapply it. Yup, nerve racking. The pre-scribed lines along the trim paid off. Even though they kind of filled in with paint they still provided a guide for the hobby knife. I don't do a lot of BMF work so I know I could have done better but I think it turned of OK.
  4. Once the body paint had dried, I sanded it down to a fairly decent finish and applied those big 'ol flame decals. Remember, this is a box art build. I have to admit that I kind of like those multi-color flames...lol. I let the decals dry out and then clear coated the body. This is the first time I have clear coated a body, let alone a body with decals. I was a little nervous. I used Testors Wet Look. It is a little thick but it worked wonderfully! The body was set aside to cure. Once cured, I set out to sand and polish the paint. I use Micro-Mesh cloths and Gravity polish. I think it came out well.
  5. As the body paint was drying I worked on other bits. The glass was pretty scuffed up from getting beat and banged around in the box since 1991. I test fitted it only to find it did not fit in the body. It was just a tad too short. I cut the rear glass from the rest of the molded piece. I then dipped both pieces in Future. Although not perfect, it is waaaay better than it was. Next, I worked on the interior. I sprayed everything gloss red and later dull coated it. I left the dash glossy and freehand brush painted the dash details. Although they don't really show up in the pictures, the gauges were picked out as well as the name badge on the glove compartment. This is one of the details I did not worry about because once the body is on, you just can't see the interior details very well. The rotors were painted red. The wheel chrome is not good. I removed the raised letters on the tires and put on decals. I then dull coated the tires. The engine was finished. Again, I did not worry about it because, one, it is a box stock build, and two, it will not be seen when the hood is on.
  6. I also like to scribe around things that will have BMF applied to them. This provides a channel for the knife blade to follow to, hopefully, give a nice clean, straight edge. I did at least three separate coats of primer to work on getting the body ready for paint. In the end, the extra work pays off. The body was painted with Tamiya Gloss Black straight from the can.
  7. The body is fairly rough in this kit. Panel lines were very soft, sometimes just a mere depression in the plastic. The side trim was not even or crisp. There were "steps" in the mold joins that really could not be sanded out. I usually rescribe all of my panel lines. I tried this on the gas filler door but was having absolutely no luck. Finally, I decided to just fill it, and all of my scratches, in with super glue.
  8. I have always loved this kit back from when I was a kid. I decided to build this box stock and as box art. I did not sweat all of the small details, instead, I concentrated on making a presentable shelf model. The model is actually built but I thought I would share a few pictures, tips and techniques with all of you. This is the kit I used. It is 1991 vintage.
  9. Gorgeous!!
  10. Great looking model of a great looking racer. You’ve done an excellent job, Nathan!
  11. Nacho Z

    Ford GT

    Great looking model, Tim!
  12. I have always liked that livery. Your model really looks the part! Nice job!
  13. There is a lot of good information here, James! Thanks for gathering it all up and posting it here! Most of the race cars will find there way to my stash.
  14. Thanks for the comments, guys!
  15. Thanks, David! There really is not much interior detail. You could cut open the back door, however. The side panels are actually clear plastic windows. I installed them, (they don’t really fit all that well), and painted them from the inside. I then sprayed them primer and body color from the outside.
  16. Thanks, Keith! It is Tamiya Mica Red over their Gloss Aluminum. The white is their Pearl White.
  17. This was just a quick, fun, stress free build. I built it box stock and did not sweat the details. She is a 3-footer, not a contest quality build by any means. It is good to just knock out a build and not worry about every little detail. I am a bit of a sucker for Coca-Cola liveries, (when they make sense). I did not do a WIP thread because there really wasn't too much interesting things to post. Hope you enjoy it.
  18. Amazing work, Dann! You really nailed this. Exceptional scratchbuilding!
  19. That is one good looking Porsche!
  20. As with all of your builds, fantastic work!!
  21. Another beautiful build!
  22. Beautiful!
  23. I like it. It will be interesting to see what the aftermarket comes up with for this car.
  24. Beautiful! That is a unique livery and you did a great job on it!
  25. What a beautiful model! Such a clean looking build. Nice color choice too!
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