yellowsportwagon

So this has been in my bench for about 6 years now. I think it’s time to finish it. It is the worst resin casting I ever saw. Full I mean full of pinholes. Frt and rear bumpers and frt balance were unusable. So I made new ones. Far from perfect but usable. Has a Johan Torino Chassis and the underhood structure from a Revell Torino that I cut out for a nascar build. Engine is a Roush Yates 358 Ford. Pegasus wheels and parts box tires.

One I started a while ago. I should finish it. I scratchbuilt the front and rear consoles for it. Always irritates me when the kit has a manual trans but an automatic console and shifter. The worst of this car was the interior. Someone glued felt all over the floor and seats. I fixed it as best I could.maybe I’ll finish it this winter. I put a 65 Riv engine in it too. Better detail and dual quads.

I used to hate doing decals. Kit decals always seemed to suck. Once I started using good aftermarket decals it got way better. I enjoy doing them now.

I usually post them in the NASCAR section.

Boy some of those old Monogram reds were terrible to deal with.I think they used dyes in those rather than pigments.

I think just this once.

No white thank god

Lobographix

The newer release . The one with the blue car on the box

This is a heavily massaged Revell Torino on an AMT TBIRD chassis. Wheelwells were opened up and the fronts flared.The side window area was enlarged. It never looked right to me. Fuel filler and overflow added. Bumpers narrowed a lot. What a pain! Front tucked a little back tucked a lot.. Lobographix Decals.

That’s looking really cool man

Use as directed allow to fully cure before sanding. Make sure body is sanded with 180 where putty will be applied. Make sure mold release is cleaned off before doing anything to a body.

I paint all my stuff the same. I get my body work done. I never use Tamiya or any of the other single part putties in a tube. They all shrink. They are lacquer based . Lacquer shrinks. I use Evercoat glazing putty. If used properly no shrinkage. I then put one coat of lacquer primer on the body. Only because it adheres to model plastic better than my auto primer. Then I put 1-2 coats of 2kprimer on and allow to dry. Sand with 600. I now put a 2k sealer primer on. Thin coat. Then I use waterborne basecoat. Put all my colors on. Follow this by one thin coat of 2k clear if putting decals on. If no decals are involved I put a second coat on and call it done. If decalling I allow the 1 coat to dry and add my decals. Allow them to dry overnight and reclear the following day one to two more thin coats. I only normally sand any dirt nibs out. I don’t sand and polish the whole thing. No need if it’s painted correctly. The 2k lays like glass. Plus sanding to much always opens a can of worms for me.

My unfinished projects have fallen to an unacceptable low. So here is a new one started.

I went and looked at the pictures again . I think the inside is the same color gray as the outside is

Back then they painted them all different colors. I did this one silver cause the real cars were. Lots of times I splatter paint the inside of the floor. Then paint the bottom side and engine compartment semi gloss black. Often they were body color inside too.

Real sharp.

Thanks guys

Love the Eliminator funny car

Man I really like it!

Haven’t finished anything that wasn’t a race car.

Dude that’s gonna be sick!!!! Are you found to cast the Pace car body?

This was a nice looking race car. Nice job on it.

This is a real nice clean build.

I have no idea on the stripes. The car was an Osterlund rental Hence the color blue. White substituted for the yellow.