vamach1

Very nice indeed back in the day before we had a few more options in resin bodies and parts but a nice resin or plastic USRRC body along with of course a 427 body and chassis in 1/25 scale.

Very nice job on this very unique Flip-top that many us would like to see in a plastic kit form or at least a nice resin conversion kit.

Wish I had an answer for the decals but I’m guessing the area was cut out with an exact knife and painted black. I painted the stripes on this kit I built many years ago anticipating this very problem. For the rocker stripes I always look at pictures of the real car and make sure the letters and numbers line up with the fender. I also cut the decal in sections if it part of it is on the door.

They might refer to the wrong years on purpose. Just a theory. ?

Both Rex’s thank you. ?

Great story. I’ve had my 72 Mach1 for 39 years so needless to say there’s a lot of stories of various escapades in it a few of which meant a visit to the County Courthouse a few times for traffic court.?

These may not be the best kits but it’s possible to make a presentable kit with some better decals and taking into account they originate from molds that are at least fifty years old. Despite the box art on AMT kit it’s basically the same kit as the IMC MKII and would need modifications to represent the 66 Daytona race version.

And the Standard hood (which Eleanor had) to do that version of maybe a sprint or plain sportsroof. The interior buckets are atrocious in the AMT and MPC offerings if one wants to represent the deluxe door panels. The gauge cluster and dash are okay but Including a mini console for an automatic shift selector for a FMX or C6 trannyI would be nice but I could go on and on but let’s just say the list of what could be included is petty long. With just the right hood, grille, Front bumper, side mirrors, and decals at least a 72 sprint could be built with either Magnum 500’s or the FOMOCO hubcap and trim rings on stock steel wheels. I know it would save builder the expense of custom decals, extra resin parts and pilfering a set of wheels front the spares box. I don’t think that is asking for much after the builder finds a suitable engine for the kit such as the 302.

I heard that also from a reliable source at the NNL in Toledo last year too. I think the overkill or Eleanor and Bullitt’s and to some degree the 69 and 70 kits that have been improved in many ways especially the interiors and engines and chassis accuracy. Even with a bunch of better or new resin grilles and bumper and engines and factory decals it is still a chore to make either the almost 50 year old AMT and MPC kits of the 71-73 (sportsroof only of course) Mustang into an accurate representation of the one of the fastest of the showroom Mustangs of the early 70’s that handled pretty well too.

Isn't that the truth.

Anyone know the date they may hit the retail shelves or the Independent distributors will get them to sell?

I think MCW had spray cans at one time. I bought some OEM colors in large spray cans to do multiple cars in factory Ford colors. The color is called Arcadian blue. Not sure what is close in the Tamiya or Testors line but like the Gulf blue it is best to research what is out there if you do not use an airbrush.

Indycals has fixed that problem for $22 if you want to do the #1 car. The blue paint is available from a few sources.

We all wish they did. Honestly the AMT kit was based on parts from various previous year Mustangs and with the GT00 kit reissued many times more than I can remember, the key parts for the show car are the body, side windows, grille and wheels. When I recused a glue bomb I used parts from those kits if the original parts were not salvageable. I believe the interior is from the 67 kit but not many would notice if the 68 interior was used. Assuming the real show car had a 390 engine the AMT kit engine is not correct - it’s the small block engine from the 65 Mustang which was used in their kit up to 1973 even though Ford Virtually dropped the 302 from the Mustang Mach1 line in 1971 as in stock form with a 2 bbl carb it did not quite got with the Mach1 image and the vast majority had either a 351 Cleveland or a 429 (71 only) neither of which are in the 71 Mach1 kit.. The lesson here is the models back then sometimes had the “wrong” engines because it was cheaper instead of tooling up a new one and they figured kids would not notice the difference, The one pictured is a built (not by me) original kit I found at a swap meet. It is not painted.

My guess they saw the MENG one and since the Trumpeter one sold out quickly they figured why not get some more sales before the MENG one comes out if ever. If you compare the Trumpeter kit to say an old Bandai large scale kit they are better but of course we are not talking Tamiya quality either.

Good luck on the conversion. The build by Cruz in that other magazine should help out. I was a little disappointed in a few things on the 69 Boss 302 that being a Mustang person I noticed right away. The Boss 302 did not have the round emblems on the area behind the windows and the 69 Shelby interior was in the kit including the roll bar which is incorrect for any stock Mustang except the Shelby Since you are doing the Wick version which is often referred to as a Boss 429 - (it’s not)I I would note all the unique things on the “movie” car and use the various parts from the Revell and Monogram kits and you will be able to make Wick’s Mach1 that does have most of the features of a Non-Ram air Mach1 with an automatic trans and a non-functional hood scoop (not in either 69 kit but the same as from the 68 CJ kit) and no Mach1 stripes on the side. The decorative Mustang roof emblems on this car are correct and Ford made some bare bones sportsroofs loaded with options and since they destroyed five cars while filming I’m guessing they bought some stripped down cars and make them all appear similar. It’s a shame that many Mustangs were destroyed as any good Mustang fastback body with A legitimate VIN is worth saving.

More pictures of Rex's car and the one I can afford on the roof.

Not sure I had seen the rear opened up before. Thanks for posting.

Enjoy

Nice argument and flattery will get you everywhere. The Lindberg kit is on the build list for sure with enhancements as you suggested. I’ll post these pics from Colin Comer’s book on the chassis number debate thread also.

The CSX serial number was for the chassis. My friend bought CSX2177 recently after selling two of his 65GT350’s (One restored and one original street models. There is not R in the original serial number of either the 289 or 247 Cobra’s or the 65-66 GT350’s for that matter. It could be a reissued plate perhaps but if the car is authenticated by SAAC experts as original then yes it would be worth in the millions as opposed to very nice “replica” which can cost over $100K for the ones that are look authentic but just too new. Hopefully there will be some “real” Cobra’s at Carlisle this weekend at the all Ford show. My friend’s car will not be there but I hope to see it soon as he was looking for any 289 Cobra for a long time and he said CSX2177 was privately owned and raced (not by the Shelby team) so you could say it was a customer car that was modified for racing in regional events which was fairly common back in the 1960’s and 1970’s. Hopefully I will see his car in the next month and of course take some pictures. Will he let me drive it is a whole other question.

Very nice for a promo type kit With some cool wheels and the color is beautiful.

Bravo Cobraman. As we know the original concept was pretty radical back in 1968 ( too much so for an actual production car) but I think you have done a great job using today’s trends (large diameter wheels) with and “old school” engine that will still look cool years from now. As you know I was going to build mine close to the original appearance but since I already built the 1/25 AMT kit which is okay (but $$$ on the bay) but you have clearly shown me that this kit does have potential with some creativity and modeling skills. Next week I hope to reboot some modeling projects that have been set aside for a few months including the one I have of the same kit I painted a very long time ago.

Thanks Ralph. The Renaissance and Fujumi bodies are more accurate but there is something about opening the back and seeing a big block engine and those bundle of snake exhaust headers in the Old IMC or MPC kits Or a nice trans kit.