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Everything posted by Straightliner59
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I think that '92 is the best vintage Hemi around. Still. Congratulations on attempting an entire engine! I have yet to attempt that. Nice work!
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Weathering techniques question
Straightliner59 replied to JerseeJerry55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
If I need to. Usually, if applied soon enough, the slightly tacky paint will fix it. I should add that I also use the pencil to pick out/highlight some of the bolts, and other raised details. -
Chopped, Sectioned and Bobbed…….’63 Corvette.
Straightliner59 replied to NOBLNG's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Glad you're sticking with the "W" Head! Looks way cool! -
Weathering techniques question
Straightliner59 replied to JerseeJerry55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
When I want to replicate old steel, I generally start with a semi-gloss/satin black base. I use Krylon paint, because it dries quickly. About 15-20 minutes after I shoot it, I use a flat-tipped brush to work in a mixture of powdered pastels, usually a mix of tans, greys, pale yellows, and browns/brown-reds. I also hit the edges and corners with a soft drawing pencil. Finally, I lightly apply some pencil, using the side of the point, and rub it in, with a Q-Tip or soft cloth. I like the understated look. -
Photo Etch Seatbelts
Straightliner59 replied to PatW's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I,ve found that it's easier to fit the foil through the slots, before drinking the wine!😅 -
Photo Etch Seatbelts
Straightliner59 replied to PatW's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Nothing wrong with that! -
Photo Etch Seatbelts
Straightliner59 replied to PatW's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yessir! I use it, almost exclusively, for straps. -
Photo Etch Seatbelts
Straightliner59 replied to PatW's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I like to use wine bottle foil for belt material. I like that I can pose it to look more natural, than the ribbon, or paper that is usually supplied. -
I will be looking forward to what you will do with one of these , my friend!
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The body's polished out, excepting the left front corner--basically, the left side of the hood is all that's left. Then, I'll look for little missed spots, and fix those. I also have added .080" half-round, to the top and bottom interior of the windshield. Those'll get bare-metaled. I am close to installing the interior and chassis, into the body! From there, about all that will be left to install will be the bumpers and lights. Thanks for looking!
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Masking for two tone paint
Straightliner59 replied to rossfox's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I agree with Bill. Bare-Metal is going to be your best bet! -
Cheetah
Straightliner59 replied to Dave B's topic in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
What Andy said! You're off to a good start! -
Masking for two tone paint
Straightliner59 replied to rossfox's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I am going to use that technique with the tape! Great call! -
Masking for two tone paint
Straightliner59 replied to rossfox's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have been using Parafilm for masking, the last few years. Use the warmth of your fingers, as you apply it, to seal the edges. It's low-tack and residue-free. It can pretty much be applied, as soon as paint is dry to the touch. -
Ertl IH Transtar F-4270
Straightliner59 replied to Scott Eriksen's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Yep! That's the original release. I picked up one of the cabovers, a few years ago--before AMT announced the re-release.😅 It has a great deal of sentimental value, to me, anyway. -
painting frames
Straightliner59 replied to gary jackson's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I use Krylon satin, or semi-gloss black. -
Paint question
Straightliner59 replied to JerseeJerry55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I use a lot of Krylon. I would recoat it. Most Krylon can be overcoated at any time, according to the can. I've found it to be true! I've completed paintjobs in a day, using Krylon. -
During my recent, involuntary internet "hiatus", I decided that the wheelwells were entirely too wide-open. I cut some half "oval/elliptical" backs from .030" sheet, then used some old long-distance phone cards to cover them. It looks much better than before! Shot clear on the body, today. I'll give it a few days, then give it some light wet sanding and a polish. In the meantime, I can get the windshield bare-metaled. Thanks for looking!
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I didn't take photos of the process, but I turned this wheel inner on my Sherline, from 1/2" PVC. It's a great size, to start with! It only takes a little from the outside, and boring the inside (with a bar, not a bit), and a little detail on the lip. I'll be using this, a lot, now, as I always have a difficult time finding proper ones in my stash.
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I have just got a new computer, online, since the crash of my prior unit. I see I have a lot of catching up, to do! Your fuel system pieces are utterly amazing! Well, all your work is, but small, highly detailed parts really turn my crank. Excellent progress, Tim!
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Flocking/ embossing powder not covering
Straightliner59 replied to Hondamatic's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yes. Enamels work best!