Straightliner59

I think I have one header completed, except for the straps for the diaper. Those are painted; I just need to install them. I would have them both done, but I heard the dreaded "tick" sound, and one of the blower restraint strap brackets disappeared from the tweezers into whatever void it is that parts disappear into. Therefore, next item on the agenda is to make a new one! I added some silver Rub-n-Buff to the restraint straps, as they were a tad too close to a steel color. Comments of any sort are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

Nice work with the rear wheel openings. That method works great for altering wheelbases, too. I grafted the ones from the Old Pro Nova, into a stock Vega body, to fit slicks under it. I learned that from a Hank Borger article, almost 50 years ago! Love these early Pro Stocks!

Very cool piece, Walt!

Sound advice for over 50 years!?

Brilliant!?

This should help. It's the most comprehensive explanation of nitro fuel systems I've ever seen. You'll want the single pump setup.

Thank you, my friend! The only goal I ever have is to make each better than the last, in some way, or to try something new. I am confident that you are correct! I am very happy with this project!

I am about to employ it, when I re-solder the tab for the tie rod. I pulled one of them off, when I was shortening the tie-rod. I'll use aluminum tubing, since the solder won't stick to it! I'll have to touchup the paint, as well. C'est la vie!

I got the thermocouples mostly done, sans a bit of detail paint. I also got the diaper installed, and figured out how to make all the hardware play nicely with the strap material...I think!? Next, I'll install the aforementioned strap hardware to the header flanges, and add the bolt heads, before fine-tuning the mounting of the headers, and installing them. I still need to fix the tie rod bracket, and shorten the tie rod. I think it's getting closer! Your comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

That's how I make all of my fittings. I'm not sure I'd want to do it without a lathe, though. Not saying it can't be done, without, just that it makes it a ton easier!

That looks great, Francis! That's exactly how I like to align components, as well. Excellent work, my friend.

I didn't realize that. I just did a quick search and found quite a few available for sale. They're still cheaper than Testors. Get 'em while you can!?

I like the Mr. Metal Color, too, but, this stuff "feels" the same as the old MM stuff!

I discovered a tin of Humbrol Metal Cote Polished Steel, in my paint drawer. It's the closest thing, performance-wise, I have found to Testors discontinued product. It brushed on, very nicely and dried quickly. In researching the line, I found that they also have it in aerosols. The only thing I used it on was the tiny hex nuts on these thermocouples. I'll be buying more, for sure. If I can get it, locally, I'll try out the spray, too...

I have been working on the temp sensors for the headers. It took a few days to decide exactly what I was going to use to make them. i ended up using some old MSC silver/grey plug wire. I stripped off most of the insulation, and left 1/32" bare on one end, then super glued the remaining insulation in place. I drilled a hole in a piece of .080" Evergreen strip, to use as a bending jig. Once I had the pieces bent, I added a small nut, made from Plastruct .030" hex, bored on the lathe. I painted the nuts with Humbrol Polished Steel Metal Cote. I am going to purchase more of their colors, from this line, as they behave almost exactly as Model Master metalizers do/did. I got the thermocouples mounted on one header, and I am very happy with their appearance! I made the "collector" boxes from .040"X.080" Evergreen strip. I used the mill, to properly space the holes. I'll pull the other header from the engine, so I can install the hardware (also includes the brackets for the blower restraint, and the diaper straps) to both flanges, as well. Once the other header is free, I can work the diaper into place, and feed the straps up over the top tubes of the frame. Speaking of the frame--I have to make a small solder repair. The tab that holds the tie rod in alignment, on the left side of the chassis came loose, while I was shortening the tie rod. I think I can safely repair it, with minimal damage/cleanup. As always, your questions, critiques and comments are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

I did these blower restraints with SNJ aluminum powder rubbed into flat black. I have a couple of brass and bronze metal powders, but, I want to experiment with more of them. there's quite a variety, on Ebay.

Excellent news!

Hahaha! I think just "Dan" is most fitting! Thank you, so much, Pierre! I appreciate it!

I'm interested in the SIM products Bill mentioned, above. That said, if I was going to try to duplicate it with stuff I have on hand, I'd try semi-flat black, and rub graphite powder into it. I've had great luck, rubbing metal powders into paint bases, and I think that combo might get you there.

I sincerely appreciate that, Francis. I've given some thought to compiling photos and thoughts about my different models. I had a teacher in college who told me that I should write. I'd like to include hot-tos, within the various "articles"/chapters, detailing the processes that went into the creation of each project. That you find this/my stuff interesting is encouraging, to me! I often wonder what it was that so intrigued me about this, those fifty-odd years ago. Almost from the very beginning, I knew it was more than just a hobby, for me. I wouldn't do it for any reason other than I would hope it would provide something back to this avocation that has given so much, to me--and in hopes that others might find it useful, and interesting, as well. Thank you again, my friend!

I knew those were out there, because I had seen one, decades ago. I didn't know who made them.

That Alston setup is a popular one. Definitely a good choice! Your fabrication is, as always, excellent!

At an IPMS Regional that took place, here in Denver, years ago, I entered a Hasegawa 1/72 scale Sherman tank in the small scale armor class, and won. They didn't believe me, when I told them I'd built it in less than 24 hours! That was fun!

I am honored that the model is in Garlits' museum! Knowing that he had the real car, there, I hoped the model would find its way there someday, even as I was building it. The story of it getting there required an incredible leap of faith. A couple of days later, over the phone, Big Daddy, himself told me that it had arrived in Florida, safely, having been carried home on his wife, Pat's lap. The first time Garlits saw it, in 1990, he wanted it for the museum. I told him that's where I wanted it, too, but that I wanted to enter a couple of contests, with it, first. It was two years later, that finally happened. C.J. "Pappy" Hart, who founded the first-ever commercial drag strip, at Santa Ana, California, and who "bounced" it, in tech, the first time Dick Kraft showed up with his car, in this configuration saw it and invited me into his motor home at The 1990 Mile High Nationals, so he could get a better look at it! I really should write the story of this model down. Its history is pretty interesting. Like you, Andy and I share a love for scratchbuilding. I admire his work, and enjoy watching his projects come together here on the forum. I find them to be informational and inspiring. That Jaguar scared the you-know-what out of me!

Thank you, my friend! I have to concur with Andy, below; This is certainly my most involved project, as far as the number of details that can be added. And, I am satisfied that it will be my best work, to date. I think The Bug was about as complete as it could have been. There just wasn't much of anything missing, from it. The only thing I could have done better was to have scratchbuilt some new wheels, for it--I would, now. That was over 30 years ago, though, and I wasn't as fearless, as I am now!? For a bit of background: The Bug is my replica of the car that is considered to be the first rail dragster. It was a set of stripped-down Model T frame rails with a seat, a cowl, a fuel tank an engine, and wheels. It ran 110 MPH in 1950, and I can't imagine how scary that must have been, if one considers the consequences of any mishap! Andy and I had what I can only imagine was an intense "battle" for the Replica Class in Salt lake City, in 1990. He, with a gorgeous Jaguar E Type Lightweight. I've attached a screen shot from the SAE Magazine CD of the GSL coverage, from that year. Also attached are the only photos I have of the model, which are also from that magazine. The model itself is in the Don Garlits Museum of Drag Racing, where it's been, since 1992. That's why I don't have better photos. Thanks, Andy. I think your "yes and no" is a perfect response to Francis' question!