StevenGuthmiller

I have done these things as well. The difference is that when they're done, they are not completely anonymous. I get it, I might not know who the person is that just flipped me the bird, but at least I get to see their face when they do it. If I high five a friend, or give a thumbs up to somebody for their ride, I "want" them to know who I am. Emoticons, as currently configured on this site, are completely impersonal. It's hard to pay any attention to a response when one doesn't know who it's from. Call me crazy, but I kind of like knowing who I'm communicating with. By the way, if someone flips me the bird, I do my best to ignore that as well. Steve

I was honestly wondering what your point was. apparently, according to “bobthehobbyguy” they don’t affect the post count at all, so I was curious as to what you thought the impact of emoticons was on post count and why it matters. Honestly, I don’t know if your feeling is that post counts are too high, or not high enough. Steve

Is that good, or bad? Steve

“I like that”. Whew, that was tough! ? Steve

Not very efficient if it’s ignored. Steve

I think that’s a bit of a stretch. I think what he’s saying is that if you really “like” something, don’t you want people to “know” that you like it? If I react to something, I want that person to know that it was me that was reacting. I guess unless it’s a bad reaction. Then I suppose that it’s beneficial to be able to “hide” behind the anonymity. That’s not necessarily stupid, but it is cowardly. Steve

The Revell tri-five Chevys with the opening doors are probably some of the worst engineered kits ever produced. Not to say that most other kits with opening components were much better. Steve

Honestly, I would rather spend 10 minutes darkening panel lines than hours trying to get doors to fit properly. Steve

Got it.

Because on a real car, the panel lines are obvious. If you spray paint a model and don't do anything about the panel lines, realism suffers, and the point of building a miniature replica is to make it look as real as possible. If the panel lines aren't darkened in some fashion, especially on a light colored car, the body color fills the panel lines and the vehicle will look like it has no doors. It will look like a "toy". Steve

Ya lost me. ? Steve

Absolutely! Both of those will also result in a grainy finish. Slow down and spray closer. just be aware that if you’re using a hot lacquer such as Duplicolor, you need to be cognisant that too heavy of an initial coat can craze the plastic without adequate primer to seal it, so it’s a bit of a tight rope act. Steve

You probably need to go heavier with the black too. The black is lacquer as well, and just like the clear, it will get grainy if sprayed too lightly. Steve

Sounds like a good idea. Steve

Hi Keith. Here's what I have. Fellow member "Superbird McMonte", (Dominick Gerace) sent me a bunch of these 3-D printed grilles for the '68 Coronet. I have quite a few of them, so if you're interested, I'll send you a couple. Just a couple of things to consider. The Coronet body will need some small alterations in the front for the head light buckets of the grill to fit. Namely, the flat "grille mounting plate" behind the grille needs to be at least partially removed. Another issue that Dominick and I discovered was that the vertical grille members are a little off. By that I mean, that in a given space, there is a pair of vertical bars, and in the next there might only be one, and there's really no consistent pattern. I don't know if this will be a real concern once the grille is painted black, but I've opted to use my original MPC grille with drilled out headlights, and I'll use a set of the buckets from one of Dominick's grilles. Yes, I'm sure that this grille will work in the Charger as well, but some work to get it mounted will be required. If anyone else is interested in Dominick's grilles, PM him directly. I'm sure that he would be more than happy to help you out. Steve

On most of my older builds, I would mix some clear with just a tiny bit of white, and possibly a little dab of silver just to "tint" the clear slightly. On the majority of my more recent builds, I drill out the molded in lenses and replace with new buckets and clear lenses. The lenses on this '63 Ford truck were done using the "tint" method. The '68 Olds lenses were drilled out and replaced. Steve

Just getting ready to put a Dana 60 in my '68 Dodge Hemi Coronet build. It comes from the Revell '68 Charger kit. Steve

No sir, I did not! If you look closely at the final front end shot, you will see that the pickle is indeed painted green. Possibly not the exact correct green, but it is green. Steve

From the look of it, you could be going too light with the clear. You’re getting more orange peel than what should be normally associated with Duplicolor clear. I am going to tell you that you are not likely to get a super high gloss with Duplicolor clear, but if you’re spraying it light, you’re just piling orange peel upon orange peel. Your clear coats should be sprayed pretty heavily so that it can level. lacquer clear dries so quickly that if you spray it lightly, it will have a grainy look, and if subsequent coats are sprayed in the same way, it will not level, it will just add more graininess. You probably need to go a lot heavier with the clear coats, and don’t worry too much about it getting too thick. I usually spray around 5 pretty heavy coats of Duplicolor clear on my projects, and the product shrinks down to such a thin layer, that even with that many coats, it still doesn’t hide any detail. Warm you clear coat can, spray it wet and you will likely be much happier with the smoothness of the finish. Now, even with that said, you’re not going to get the type of high gloss as you would with something like a 2K clear. If you want it to have a nice, smooth, shiny and “realistic” looking sheen, you are very likely going to have to polish at the end. Steve

In my area, the NORDICON show is on Saturday, September 25th, in Inver Grove Heights MN. Still haven't heard, but the "Hope it Don't Snow" show is usually in Rochester MN sometime in February. Both of these are IPMS events, so there's a lot more planes and tanks than automobiles, but we can ignore those. Steve

I think I remember that. was he the guy that seemed to be able to type quite well, but apparently couldn’t read? If I recall correctly, he always asked a lot of questions that he apparently already knew the answers to, and had no interest in the answers he got. Steve

I guess it's on us for not thinking more simply. If that's all that the OP wanted was a yes or no about being able to spray clear over decals, the answer is "YES". Never mind any of the dozens of variables. Steve

I think you’ve already read them. She told him that he could gloss coat over decals. ? Steve

I thought that in some strange turn of events, that if the thread continued, it would give the OP the opportunity to rectify his indifferent attitude towards those who have offered help, but sadly, it looks like that's not going to happen. After all, I figured that it's in his best interest not to alienate those who might wish to help him on this board. I can pretty much guarantee you that there are going to be a great deal fewer beneficial responses the next time that he needs help. His loss I guess. Besides, it appears that the "comprehensive" response that he got from Rustoleum was apparently exactly what he was after. Not to mention the highly sought after product reviews. Steve

Actually, if you should decide to try the embossing powder, it's not difficult to remove. I use slightly thinned Elmer's glue as the adhesive, so just dropping it in a tub with some warm water will have it peeling off in no time. But, as I said, it does add a very small amount of thickness, and from the sound of it, you don't have a lot of room to spare. This is one of those variables that can be very difficult to judge when you begin swapping chassis and engines. Even after going through all of the mock-up procedures, sometimes tolerances can be so tight that even the thickness of paint in a couple of areas can throw things off enough to the point that the hood won't seat as it should in the end. It can be pretty frustrating when you find that out at this point of the project. Steve